Adi Rameswaram in Tirunelveli

The renowned tale of Rameswaram and its association with the Ramayana is well-known across the nation. Ravana, the King of Sri Lanka, abducted Sita, Rama's wife, leading to a war where Rama emerged victorious. During his journey back to Ayodhya, Rama stopped at what is now known as Rameswaram, installing a Shiva Linga to seek redemption for his Brahmahatya dosha, naming it Ramanatha, the Lord of Rama.

While this historical narrative is widely acknowledged, few are aware of Adi Rameswaram, where Rama installed a Shiva Linga even before the one in Rameswaram. Tirunelveli, a temple-rich region, harbors the hidden gem of Arugankulam village on the banks of the Tamraparani River, adorned with temples linked to the Ramayana.

According to Ramayana's legend, when Ravana abducted Sita, the Vulture King Jatayu courageously intervened but suffered injuries. Rama later found Jatayu, performed its last rites, and granted it Moksha. While traditionally believed to occur on the Godavari riverbanks, local belief places this event in Arugankulam, where a temple stands at the site of Jatayu's Moksha.

Following the last rites for Jatayu, Rama consecrated a Shiva Linga in this village, seeking Moksha for Jatayu. The Linga is named Ramalinga, akin to the later Rameswaram. Given its precedence to the other Rameswaram, the temple is also referred to as Adi Rameswaram.

Constructed in the later Pandya period (12th or 13th century), this temple features an exquisite vimana. Positioned on a slightly elevated terrain, it is embraced by picturesque hillocks. Subsequent additions include several shrines and a Maha mandapa. Unfortunately, the entire structure has been whitewashed, concealing the true beauty of its architectural style and the relief images on the torana.

The sanctum faces east and houses the primary deity, Rama Linga. In the south-facing shrine, the tall and graceful Goddess Parvatavardini is revered, each with their respective Nandi facing them.

An ancient stone image of Ganesha and Kartikeya stands guard at the Ardha mandapa. Notably, the temple lacks a flagstaff, but a Bali peetha is present, accompanied by a Nandi nearby.

Chandikeshwara resides in a customary location within a small south-facing shrine in the northern prakara. While Dakshinamurti is speculated to be a later addition, Navagrahas and Bhairava are also found.

Similar to other Pandya-era temples, the outer walls feature false niches devoid of Murtis. However, above the five niches, toranas showcase miniature relief images of Ganesha, Dakshinamurti, Linga, Brahma, and Durga.

In the prakara, a set of stone images of Ganesha and Sapta Kannis consists of only five Goddesses, with the remaining three images missing.

An ancient stone sculpture of Maha Lakshmi, excavated from somewhere in the village, is housed in the Maha mandapa of Shiva. Nagas are discovered beneath the holy tree.

A notable feature of the temple is a separate east-facing shrine with its own vimana and Maha mandapa, dedicated to Pind Rama. This shrine showcases a magnificent, approximately 7 feet high sculpture of Rama with four arms, resembling Vishnu. Rama holds sankha and chakra in his upper arms, while his lower arms display abhaya and kati hasta gestures. Legend has it that Rama assumed this form to offer pind daan for Jatayu's soul. Consequently, he is revered as Pind Ram in this temple. (In Hindu religious texts, pind refers to something in a circular form, and pind daan involves offering food in a circular-ball form to the soul during shradh karma.) Opposite his shrine stands Jatayu, rather than the usual Garuda, with Garuda found separately in the Maha mandapa. Ramanuja is a later addition observed in the Maha mandapa. Additionally, a captivating bas-relief image of Ganesha is situated in front of the Rama shrine.

Happy travelling.