Indian Columbus

In a quiet corner of Madison Square Park in Manhattan stands the commanding bronze statue of William H. Seward , a figure of immense historical stature whose legacy continues to shape the political narrative of the United States. Seated in a dignified, relaxed pose, this sculpture honors a statesman whose career spanned some of the most turbulent decades in American history. The Man Behind the Monument William Henry Seward (1801–1872) served as Governor of New York , United States Senator , and most notably, as Secretary of State under Presidents Abraham Lincoln and Andrew Johnson. He was an outspoken opponent of slavery, a champion of education reform, and an early advocate of American expansionism. Seward is perhaps best remembered for orchestrating the purchase of Alaska from Russia in 1867, a move initially mocked as “Seward’s Folly,” but now recognized as one of the most visionary land acquisitions in American history. William H. Seward Statue – Madison Square Park, New York Cit...

While walking through London, one often comes across memorials and plaques attached to walls, bridges, and public spaces. Some are easy to miss unless one pauses and looks carefully. This memorial to W. S. Gilbert is one such work. Set against the river wall on Victoria Embankment, near Charing Cross Pier and close to Embankment Station, this is not a large freestanding monument, yet it has enough artistic beauty to make one pause and take notice. The memorial is dedicated to William Schwenck Gilbert (1836–1911) , the well-known playwright and poet. His name is shown prominently, and below it is a striking line: “Playwright & Poet. His foe was folly & his weapon wit.” That sentence itself says much about the man being remembered. It suggests someone who used humour, intelligence, and sharp observation to respond to the foolishness of the world around him. W.S. Gilbert Memorial, London At the centre of the memorial is Gilbert’s profile portrait placed within an arched re...

In the previous part, I introduced Tirunageswaram as a temple that deserves to be seen as much more than just a Rahu sthalam . Though the name of the place immediately makes most devotees think of Rahu Bhagavan, the temple itself is a vast and layered sacred complex spread across around 13 acres. In this part, let me move from that broad introduction into the actual layout of the temple. The more one studies Tirunageswaram, the more one realizes that its greatness lies not only in its sanctity, but also in the way the space has been planned. This is not a small or compact shrine where everything can be grasped in one quick round. It is a large temple with multiple enclosures, many towers, separate shrine zones, open courts, sacred tanks, and carefully placed sub-shrines. The layout itself prepares the visitor for a gradual experience. The Temple Faces East Like many important Shiva temples, Tirunageswaram faces the east direction. The main Raja gopuram too faces east. But this is o...

Some heritage sites do not stand inside large temple complexes. They do not have tall gopurams, long prakaras or inscription-covered walls. Sometimes, they survive quietly in a village corner, under the open sky or inside a small modern shrine, protected more by local devotion than by official attention. One such site is found at Ongur village , located close to GST Road. The village is around 18 km from Tindivanam . The nearest railway station is Karasangal , while Chengalpattu serves as the major railway junction. Ongur preserves two important ancient goddess sculptures: Kotravai and Thavvai , also known as Jyeshtha Devi . Both are connected with older layers of goddess worship in Tamil Nadu. One continues to receive worship inside a small modern-day shrine, while the other lies neglected among the bushes within the same temple complex. Kotravai – The Ancient Tamil Goddess The most striking sculpture at Ongur is the large stone panel of Kotravai . Kotravai is one of the most im...

In the quiet village of Sanyasi Kuppam , near Tirubuvanai in the Union Territory of Puducherry, stands a temple that appears to be known mostly to the local people. It is not a famous temple. It does not easily appear in regular travel guides. Even for heritage enthusiasts, it is the kind of place one may miss unless someone from the village points it out. But once inside, the temple surprises us. At first glance, the present structure appears relatively recent. The building may belong to the 20th century  of reconstruction. But the icons inside are certainly not recent. The temple seems to have been built around a group of old stone icons that were either found in the village or preserved from an earlier shrine. This pattern is important to understand. In many old villages, when a shrine falls apart, the stone icons are not simply discarded. They are gathered, protected, worshipped, and eventually housed again in a newer structure. Sanyasi Kuppam seems to preserve such a layer...

In the previous part of this series, I introduced the Ramalingeshwara group of temples at Avani , placing them within the historical context of the Nolamba dynasty , and also exploring the legendary association of the site with the story of Sita, Luv, and Kush . In this part, let us step closer to the temple and take in its setting, layout, and architectural features , beginning with the entrance itself. The Setting of the Temple Complex The temple complex is spread across an area of roughly 1.1 acres , excluding the surrounding waterbodies and structures outside the main enclosure. It is oriented east-facing , as is common with many Shiva temples. What immediately stands out is the absence of a towering superstructure above the entrance. Instead of a later-period gopuram, the entrance presents a more compact, stone-built mandapa-like structure (the base of the tower) , reflecting its early medieval origins. The Entrance Structure The entrance is defined by a solid granite struct...

As one travels along the road from Walajabad to Kanchipuram, the landscape gradually opens into quiet stretches of fields, scattered trees, and small village habitations. In the midst of this serene setting, at Thangi village, stands a modest yet powerful shrine dedicated to Pazhandi Amman, a deity deeply rooted in the local tradition of guardian worship. Pazhandi Amman is revered as the kaaval deivam , the guardian deity of the village, believed to watch over its boundaries, its people, and their way of life. Unlike large temple complexes, shrines of this kind are intimate and direct in character, remaining closely connected to the everyday life of the local community. The temple itself is simple in form, yet striking in presence. Painted in bright yellow with red borders, the structure stands out vividly against the green rural backdrop. Inside the sanctum, Sri Pazhandi Amman appears in a seated posture, combining grace with authority. Her icon follows a traditional form associate...

Every city has a place where you can understand its rhythm without trying too hard. In Coimbatore, the Race Course is one such stretch. At first, it may just appear as a circular road with trees and a walking track. But as you spend time here, you begin to notice how thoughtfully this space has evolved. The layout itself hints at an earlier life. The circular form suggests that this may once have been associated with racing activity. Today, that same structure has been retained and adapted beautifully. At the centre lies a large residential zone with spacious homes, surrounded by a continuous road. Beyond that, more houses line the outer edge, giving the entire area a layered character. What makes the Race Course special is not just its design, but how it is used. Early in the morning and again in the evening, the place comes alive. Walkers, joggers, families, elderly groups deep in conversation, and even those who just come to observe;  everyone finds a place here. The walking...

There are places where history speaks loudly through towering monuments. And then there are places like this, where it whispers. A short distance away from the lagoon waters and fishing boats of Pulicat , stands a walled enclosure that many visitors miss. Those who do find it often stand quietly for a while, unsure of what exactly they are looking at. Rows of old graves. Weathered stone. Silence. This is the Dutch Cemetery of Pulicat. Established in 1657, it is one of the oldest European cemeteries in India. Today, it stands not as a monument of power, but as a fragile reminder of a time when Pulicat was one of the most important ports on the Coromandel Coast. A Port That Drew the World Pulicat was not always the quiet fishing settlement we see today. During the Chola period, it grew into a significant maritime centre. From the 14th century, it came under the Vijayanagara Empire , and its importance only increased. Traders from across regions arrived here. Muslim merchants had a...

When we speak of Mamallapuram, we immediately think of the Shore Temple, the Five Rathas, or the Great Penance. But just a little before the Tiger Cave, at Saluvankuppam, lies a site that quietly rewrites the history of this region. This is not a standing temple in the conventional sense. What we see here today are the remains of a shrine that existed in layers, one built over another, across centuries. And interestingly, its story came back to light only after a disaster. (Note: I have written about this site in my blog in 2009 itself. I have covering this place again with more details now.) A Discovery After the Tsunami The tsunami of December 2004 caused widespread destruction along the coast. But as the sea receded dramatically, it briefly revealed buried structures along the shoreline. At Saluvankuppam, archaeologists noticed unusual remains near the Tiger Cave complex. Excavations by the Archaeological Survey of India soon uncovered something remarkable,  the remains of...