Indian Columbus

Sir Charles Trevelyan served as the Governor of Madras from 1859 to 1860 and as the Indian Finance Minister from 1862 to 1865. In 1859, Trevelyan proposed to the municipal commissioners of Madras the creation of a large park between the Esplanade and Vepery. An independent committee was formed to develop and manage the park, eventually handing it over to the Corporation. Named People's Park, it opened to the public in 1863. Due to Trevelyan's significant contributions, the park was briefly known as Trevelyan Park. The park's decline began with the allocation of space for swimming pools, gyms, tennis courts, and other facilities. Over time, several structures like Moore Market (1906), Ripon Building (1913), and Victoria Hall were built within the park.  The Trevelyan Fountain, currently located on the grounds of Victoria Hall, was erected to commemorate Trevelyan's contributions to People's Park and the improvement of the city's drinking water supply. It was erec...

Anyone familiar with Chennai will likely think of the Kapaleeswara Temple when the city is mentioned. Equally iconic is the Mylapore tank, the temple's adjoining reservoir. Unfortunately, the tank complex is usually locked, preventing visitors from strolling around its perimeter. In a previous article, I discussed a 1000-year-old Jyestha icon located on the tank's banks. Today, I bring attention to another lesser-known heritage structure within this complex. Situated at the northwest corner of the temple tank is a small, historical pavilion. This edifice was constructed to commemorate Queen Victoria's diamond jubilee. It features a flat roof and is built on a triangular base, topped with an urn. The pavilion is supported by three cusped arches resting on round pillars with lotus capitals. Originally, the center of this pavilion contained a water font, which has since dried up. Inscribed in Tamil on one side of the roof is "Pe Subramania Iyer Dharmam," while the op...

St. George's Fort in Chennai stands tall with its iconic Fort Museum , a captivating journey into history. Originally, this elegant colonial-era edifice was the residence of Peter Massey Cassin, a free Merchant whose legacy lingers in its walls. The Exchange House , a haven for merchants, partially opened its doors in 1790 after a lottery-funded endeavor, reaching completion by 1795. Grounded in history, its ground floor once buzzed with warehouses, offices, and the Madras Bank, while the Exchange hall on the first floor witnessed bustling trade. A fascinating historical nugget emerges from 1790 when the proposal for the first Circulating Library of Madras within the Exchange's premises stirred interest. Perched atop this hub of commerce, the first lighthouse in Madras illuminated the city's skyline from 1796 to 1837. In a shift of fortunes, Governor Edward Clive led the merchant community to the First Line Beach by 1801. Later, in 1861, a new chapter dawned as the buildi...

Oomaithurai, also known as Kumarasamy Naiyakar, was a valiant Indian Poligar (Palaiyakkarar) hailing from Tamil Nadu, renowned for his role in resisting the British East India Company during the Polygar Wars. Notably, he was the younger sibling of the illustrious Veerapandiya Kattabomman. Actively engaging in the Polygar Wars, Oomaithurai faced capture and subsequent imprisonment in the Palayamkottai Central Prison during the initial conflict. His determined spirit prevailed, leading to a daring escape on 2 February 1801, after enduring over a year behind bars. Following his escape, he played a pivotal role in the reconstruction of the Panchalankurichi fort, which had been razed during the initial skirmish. Remarkably, the prison from the 1800s has been repurposed into the Tirunelveli Govt. Museum. Within its confines, the room that once held Oomaithurai captive for over a year is now adorned with a painting depicting his resilience. This space is aptly named Oomaithurai Kudam (Gallery...

In Palayankottai, there exists a treasure trove of heritage structures, some hidden in plain sight. Yet, it often escapes notice that the Siddha Government College building, housing the Principal's office, is also a piece of history. This architectural gem, named the King Edward VII Memorial, was erected in 1936 with public funding. In a bygone era, it served as the operational theater and X-ray facility for the government hospital situated on these very grounds. The foundation stone for this edifice was solemnly laid by Lord Erskine, the Governor of Madras Presidency. Adding to the allure of this college is a contemporary but exquisitely crafted sculpture of a Siddha figure gracing the entrance of the campus, serving as yet another compelling attraction. Palayankottai's heritage often lies in plain view, awaiting those with an eye for the past. Happy travelling.

Robert William d'Escourt Ashe, famously known as Ashe Durai, held the position of District Collector during the British Raj. Born on November 23, 1872 CE, in Ireland, Ashe arrived in India in 1895. He assumed office as the District Collector and Magistrate of Tirunelveli District in 1908. Ashe played a pivotal role in the closure of the Swadeshi Steam Navigation Company, operated by freedom fighter V.O. Chidambaram Pillai. He was also responsible for levying sedition charges against V.O.C and Subramanya Siva. Furthermore, he issued orders to open fire on freedom fighters protesting against the conviction of national leaders. In response to Ashe's actions, a group called the Bharata Matha Sangam devised a plan to assassinate prominent British leaders. Vaanchinathan, a 25-year-old hailing from Senkottai, was part of this organization. He received three months of pistol training from VVS Aiyar in Pondicherry. On June 17, 1911, Ashe, accompanied by his wife Mary Lillian Patterson, ...

Old Madras or the Original Madras never ceases to surprise you. Every nook and corner has a heritage structure or a historic place. Unfortunately, only a few people realize their importance and observe them with an appreciative mindset.  Amidst the chaotic lorries and vans parked haphazardly in the congested George Town, this magnificent structure stands as a thing of beauty. The frieze on the structure is inscribed with the bold-lettered message, "The Lord hath been mindful of us: He will bless us," taken from Psalm 115-12, which is a book from the Hebrew Bible called Ketuvim and a book of the Old Testament. The triangular pediment on the top of the structure identifies it as Memorial Hall, built in 1857. The British erected the hall to commemorate the escape of South India from the horrors of the First War of Indian Independence, known as the Sepoy Mutiny by the Britishers. Colonel George Winscom was the original architect, and the design is said to have been modified later...

Bridges are a testament to human ingenuity and an architectural marvel. The history of old arch bridges built during the British era in the 18th and 19th centuries in Chennai is fascinating. The 18th century witnessed a flurry of bridge-building activity, using timber as the primary raw material, eventually evolving into lime and bricks. The purpose of these bridges was to facilitate the movement of large boats carrying heavy loads. The middle arch, which allowed the movement of boats, is considered the biggest in most constructions, while the subsequent ones taper towards the end, taking surplus water. One of the historic neighborhoods in Chennai, Chintadripet, has a bridge named St. Law's Bridge. Built in 1854, the bridge with its five arches is an excellent example of the impressive architecture of the time. Unfortunately, it leads to nowhere and currently ends near the railway line, serving as a dumping yard. I could not even get a good angle to photograph this place. The evolu...

Welcome to the fascinating history of the Chinna Tari Pettah township! (It has become Chintadaripet now). This area was founded in 1735 by Governor George Morton Pitt on the former garden of Sunku Rama Chetty, an influential Dubashi who had fallen into disgrace. To encourage the settlement of weavers and painters in this newly established village, Bemala Audiappa Narayana, another Dubashi, helped to build two temples with the support of the British administration.  (The garden on the banks of the Cooum river was earlier allotted to Sunku Rama by Governor Collett. Interestingly another settlement in the North Madras called Kaladipettah was named after Collet.) These twin temples share a common wall and are dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu, much like the famous twin temples in Old Madras. While they don't have gopurams, the temples boast intricately decorated mandapas at the entrance, featuring colonial-era iconography on the pillars. They also share a tank and chariot, and the cost of ...

Shaw Wallace Building is one of a few 100+ years old heritage structures that still survive with active engagements, in George Town, the original Madras. It is a small but elegant building designed in Indo Saracenic style. It is located in Thambu Chetty Street.  Happy travelling. 

It's massive - it's majestic - it's mammoth. As it is located next door to the Central Railway Station, with just a small road in-between, not only the locals but even the new visitors to Chennai traveling by train would never miss observing it. Yes, I am talking about the iconic heritage structure housing the Southern Railway Headquarters. The heritage structure celebrates its centenary this year (2022). It was inaugurated on 11th December 1922 by Lady Willingdon. (Marie Adelaide married Freeman Thomas, the then Governor of Madras and the future Governor General of India, was called Lady Willingdon.) The foundation stone was laid about seven years earlier, on 8th February 1915, by Lord Pentland, the then Governor of Madras.  Two stone plaques at the entrance pillars provide the details of the above events. The magnificent building, one of the first modern office buildings of the country, can be technically termed as Indo Saracenic architecture style, as it is a fusion of C...