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Krishnapuram Temple Sculptures – Episode 8: The Iconic Manmada and Artistic Pillars of the Mukha Mandapa

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About 13 kilometers from Tirunelveli lies the heritage-rich village of Krishnapuram , renowned for its grand Venkatachalapati Temple . Local tradition believes that this 16th-century temple serves as an alternative for those unable to visit Tirupati. However, Krishnapuram offers more than spiritual solace—it is a living museum of Nayaka-period art. While many temple articles begin with the presiding deity or sthala purana, the true calling card of Krishnapuram is its life-sized sculptures , carved with unmatched finesse. With photography prohibited inside the temple, witnessing these works in person becomes an unforgettable experience. This is the eighth article in my ongoing series on the temple. The first six focused on the six sculpted pillars of the Veerappa Nayakka Mandapa . In the seventh article, I introduced the two northern-facing pillars at the eastern end of the Mukha Mandapa . This episode begins with the third pillar from the east , which also faces north. Third Pilla...

Krishnapuram – A Temple of Timeless Sculptures - Part 7

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About 13 kilometers from Tirunelveli lies the historically rich village of Krishnapuram , home to an exquisite temple dedicated to Venkatachalapati . Tradition holds that those unable to undertake the pilgrimage to the famed Tirupati temple can offer their prayers here instead, at this 16th-century shrine. While most temple narratives begin with the presiding deity, the architectural layout, and associated legends, Krishnapuram calls for a different approach. The true marvel of this site lies in its magnificent, life-sized sculptures from the Nayaka period —masterpieces so vivid and refined that one could return time and again, each visit revealing new layers of artistic brilliance. With photography strictly prohibited inside, viewing these works in person becomes all the more special. Since my focus is on these awe-inspiring sculptures, I’m deliberately departing from the usual order and beginning this article with them—before exploring the rest of the temple's elements. Just b...

Krishnapuram – A Temple of Timeless Sculptures - Part 6

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About 13 kilometers from Tirunelveli lies the historically significant village of Krishnapuram , home to a splendid temple dedicated to Venkatachalapati . Tradition holds that those unable to make the pilgrimage to the famed Tirupati temple may offer their prayers here instead, at this 16th-century shrine. While most temple narratives begin with the presiding deity, the architectural layout, and associated legends, Krishnapuram demands a different approach. The true marvel here lies in its breathtaking, life-sized sculptures from the Nayaka period —works of art so refined and vivid in execution that one could return for days or even weeks, each time uncovering new layers of detail and beauty. With photography prohibited inside, experiencing these masterpieces in person becomes even more precious. As my primary focus is on these extraordinary sculptures, I’m deviating from convention by beginning with them—before exploring other aspects of the temple. Just past the entrance gopuram,...

Krishnapuram – A Temple of Timeless Sculptures - Part 5

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About 13 km from Tirunelveli lies Krishnapuram , a historically significant village home to a magnificent temple dedicated to Venkatachalapati . According to tradition, those unable to visit the famous Tirupati temple can offer their prayers here at this 16th-century shrine. Typically, descriptions of temples begin with details of the deity, architecture, history, and legends before delving into the sculptures. However, the true highlight of this temple is its breathtaking, life-sized sculptures from the Nayaka period. Their craftsmanship is extraordinary—so detailed and lifelike that one could spend an entire month revisiting the temple just to admire them. With photography prohibited, experiencing them in person becomes even more special. Since my primary focus is on these sculptures, I will break from convention and begin with them before covering other aspects of the temple. Upon entering through the gopuram, to the right (on the northern side), stands the imposing Veerappa Naya...

Krishnapuram – A Temple of Timeless Sculptures - Part 4

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 About 13 km from Tirunelveli lies Krishnapuram, a historically significant village home to a magnificent temple dedicated to Venkatachalapati. Tradition holds that those unable to visit the famous Tirupati temple can offer their prayers here at this 16th-century shrine. Typically, temple descriptions begin with details of the deity, architecture, history, and legends before touching upon sculptures. However, the true highlight of this temple is its breathtaking, life-sized sculptures from the Nayaka period. Their craftsmanship is extraordinary—so detailed and lifelike that one could spend an entire month revisiting the temple just to admire them. With photography prohibited, experiencing them in person becomes even more special. Since my primary focus is on these sculptures, I will break from convention and begin with them before covering other aspects of the temple. Upon entering through the gopuram, to the right (on the northern side), stands the imposing Veerappa Nayakka Man...

Krishnapuram – A Temple of Timeless Sculptures - Part 3

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About 13 km from Tirunelveli lies Krishnapuram, a historically significant village home to a magnificent temple dedicated to Venkatachalapati. Traditionally, it is believed that those unable to visit the famous Tirupati temple can offer their prayers here at this 16th-century shrine. While most temple accounts begin with the deity, architecture, history, and legends before discussing sculptures, the true highlight of this temple is its breathtaking, life-sized sculptures from the Nayaka period. These sculptures are so remarkably detailed and lifelike that one could spend an entire month revisiting the temple just to admire them. Their craftsmanship is beyond words, and with photography not permitted, experiencing them in person becomes even more special. Since my primary focus is on these sculptures, I will depart from convention and begin with them before covering other aspects of the temple. Upon entering through the gopuram, to the right (on the northern side), stands the imposin...

Krishnapuram – A Temple of Timeless Sculptures - Part 2

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About 13 km from Tirunelveli lies Krishnapuram , a historically significant village home to a magnificent temple dedicated to Venkatachalapati . Traditionally, it is believed that those unable to visit the famous Tirupati temple can instead offer their prayers here at this 16th-century shrine. While it is customary to first discuss the temple’s deity, architecture, history, and legends before delving into its sculptures, the true highlight of this grand structure is its breathtaking, life-sized sculptures from the Nayaka period. These sculptures are so astonishingly lifelike and intricate that one could spend an entire month revisiting the temple just to admire their beauty. Words cannot do justice to their craftsmanship. Since photography is not permitted, experiencing them in person becomes even more special. As my primary focus is to provide a detailed account of these sculptures, I will depart from tradition and begin with them before covering other aspects of the temple. Upon e...

Krishnapuram – A Temple of Timeless Sculptures - Part 1

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Located about 13 km from Tirunelveli, Krishnapuram is a small yet historically significant village. It is home to a grand temple dedicated to Venkatachalapati. Traditionally, it is believed that those unable to visit the famous Tirupati temple can instead worship here at this 16th-century shrine. While it is customary to discuss the temple's presiding deity, architecture, layout, history, and legends before delving into specific sculptures, the true highlight of this colossal temple is its breathtaking, life-sized sculptures from the Nayaka period. These sculptures are so remarkably realistic and intricate that one could spend an entire month revisiting the temple just to admire their beauty. Words cannot do justice to their craftsmanship. Unfortunately, photography is not permitted, which makes experiencing them in person even more special. Since my primary objective is to provide a detailed account of these sculptures, I will depart from tradition by focusing on them first, bef...

The Statue of the First Mayor of Madras

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Shri M.A. Muthiah Chettiar (1905–1984) holds a distinguished place in Chennai’s history as the first elected Mayor of Madras, a role that cemented his legacy in the city’s civic administration. Born into the renowned Nattukottai Nagarathar community, he expanded his family’s business empire, particularly in banking. His leadership extended beyond commerce, as he took on key public roles, serving as Mayor in 1933 and 1934, where he played a crucial part in shaping municipal governance. He later became the Minister of Excise and Education in the Madras Presidency (1936–37) and served as President of the South Indian Chamber of Commerce in 1941. A passionate supporter of education, he continued his family's philanthropic legacy by contributing to institutions like Annamalai University. Muthiah Chettiar held the hereditary title of Kumar-rajah from 1929 to 1948 and later became the Rajah of Chettinad, a title he held until his passing in 1984. His father, Rajah Sir Annamalai Chettiar, ...

Thai Poosa Mandapam – A Historic Pavilion of Nellaiyappar Temple

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The grand Kantimati Sameta Nellaiyappar Temple in Tirunelveli extends beyond its main complex, encompassing several mandapas situated at a distance from the temple. These mandapas play a vital role in various rituals and festivals associated with the temple. One such significant structure is the Thai Poosa Mandapam, located approximately 3.5 km away from the main temple, in the Sindu Poonthurai/Kailasapuram area. A key landmark near this mandapam is the Kailasanathar Temple, revered by none other than the great composer Muthuswami Dikshitar. Architectural Significance Dating back to the 1700s, the Thai Poosa Mandapam stands on the banks of the sacred Tamraparani River. The ghat at this location, known as Sindupoonthurai Ghat, is considered one of the holy water bodies of the Nellaiyappar Temple. Over time, the mandapam has been enclosed with grill gates and whitewashed externally, but its original beauty remains remarkable. The mandapam features a raised platform adorned with Vyala pil...

Poonjeri Inscriptions: A Forgotten Tribute to Pallava Sculptors

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Mamallapuram, the crown jewel of Pallava architecture, is celebrated for its breathtaking monuments—the Shore Temple, the Five Rathas, the Great Penance, and various other magnificent rock-cut caves adorned with intricate sculptures. While these architectural wonders are widely praised, the master sculptors who crafted them remain largely unknown to the public. However, their names are not lost to history; they are inscribed on boulders in Poonjeri, a lesser-known site located just 2.9 kilometers from Mallai. In a site what locals used to call “Nondi Veerappan Thotti,” in Poonjeri,  holds an inscription in Tamil and Grantha script, dating back to the late 7th century CE. These inscriptions, documented in the South Indian Inscriptions (SII) Volume XII, AR Nos. 105-107 of 1932-33, offer a rare glimpse into the identities of seven sculptors who played a crucial role in shaping Mamallapuram's legacy. The inscription reads: Ke(va)da Peruntaccan Gunamallah Payyamilippan Catamukkiya...

Siddique Sarai: A Historic Landmark in Chennai

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Amidst the bustling streets of Park Town in Chennai, opposite the grand Ripon Building, stands a lesser-known yet historically significant structure—the Siddique Sarai . Built in 1921 , this choultry was established to provide lodging facilities for Muslim travelers. Over a century old, the building remains a testament to the city’s architectural diversity and the philanthropic vision of Nawab C. Abdul Hakeem Saheb . The Vision Behind Siddique Sarai Nawab C. Abdul Hakeem Saheb (1863–1938) was a Tamil Muslim trader and politician from the Madras Presidency. A native of Melvisharam , a village in the North Arcot district , he was known for his contributions to commerce and public welfare. His father, Siddique Hussain Sahib , was a prosperous trader whose struggle to find suitable accommodation upon arriving in Madras Central from Bombay inspired the idea of constructing a dedicated choultry for Muslim travelers. The Sarai was named in his father’s honor, recognizing his influence on Abd...

Tirunelveli’s Forgotten Architectural Heritage

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Every city, town, and village carries a distinct character—its own charm, traditions, and architectural heritage. Tirunelveli, one of Tamil Nadu’s oldest regions, is no exception. While the region is often celebrated for its temples and halwa, its unique residential architecture remains a lesser-known aspect of its cultural identity. The house in this image is a fine example of Tirunelveli’s rich architectural past, reflecting a blend of colonial and traditional Tamil influences. Dating back to the late 19th or early 20th century, such houses were once a common sight, built by affluent merchants and traders. Today, however, they are becoming increasingly rare, replaced by modern structures that lack the artistry and character of the past. A Style Unique to Tirunelveli While some might mistake these homes for Chettinad-style mansions, Tirunelveli’s architectural heritage stands apart. The houses built in this region carry distinct features that showcase a seamless fusion of Tamil and co...