Kayar Adaleswarar Temple

No! It's not an ordinary roadside temple. It is supposed to be one of the ancient temples of Chennai and its suburbs. Unfortunately, the temple has lost most of its structures and its glory in due course of time. 

Located in a remote hamlet called Kayar near Mambakkam in the city's southern outskirts, Aadereeswarar temple is believed to have been built by the Cholas in the 10th century CE. 

An inscription dating the 23rd year of Rajakesari Chola's reign records the sale of some tax-free lands by the Sabha of Kayaru to a person in Naraiyur Nadu. The person endowed the land to offer Nanda lamps to Koothapperumanadigal (Nataraja) in the temple of Ageppidarar. It further states that Kayaru was in Kumili Nadu, a sub-division of Amur Kottam. From this inscription, we understand that the presiding deity (Shiva Linga) was called Ageppidarar, and the temple was big enough to have a separate shrine for Nataraja in those days. (The reference of this inscription is A.R. No. 442 of 1922 in South Indian Inscriptions Volume 13.)

Who was this Chola King with the title of Rajakesari? After Rajaraja Chola's period, many inscriptions refer to Amur Kottam as part of Jayankonda Chola Mandalam. Hence, this Rajakesari must be someone before Rajaraja Chola or Rajaraja Chola himself. As per the text in S.I.I. this King must be Aditya Chola I. But I have difference of opinion. Aditya Chola occupied the Tondai region (the present-day Chennai and its surroundings) only in his 32nd year of reign. However, this inscription belongs to the 23rd year of reign of Rajakesari. After Aditya Chola, we have Gandaraditya Chola and Sundara Chola as Rajakesaris. They did not rule for 23 years. Hence, I conclude that this Rajakesari was none other than Rajaraja Chola I.

As per the inscriptions found in other places, this village was later known as Kamala Narayana Chaturvedi Mangalam too. 

The current structure has only the sanctum (Garbha griha) and Ardha mandapa. The niches are empty. It is not the original Chola-era shrine but a reconstructed structure. All other shrines and mandapas appear to be dismantled. Four pillars of the mandapa alone stand separately, and all of them have inscriptions. Besides the inscription mentioned above, another inscription starts with the meikeerti of Rajaraja Chola as "Tirumagal Pola...". However, I could not find the exact reference to this inscription. Similarly, I could not find the details of the remaining two inscriptions.

(For beginners, "meikeerti" is a Tamil word. Raja Raja Chola I started the practice of beginning the inscriptions with standard lines of praises for the King's achievements and conquests. This practice was followed by the subsequent Chola Kings and even by the later Pandyas. Those constant lines at the beginning of the inscriptions that glorify the King are called "meikeertis".)

The shrine houses three feet high Shiva Linga who is known as Adaleswarar nowadays. The entrance of Ardha mandapa has the bas-relief images of Ganesha and Subramanya.

Some ancient sculptures are found scattered around the shrine. It includes the sculpture of a headless Surya or Chandra, a broken icon of Subramanya, a cock and a small icon of Ayyanar. 

Thavvai, also known as Jyestha, is the highlight. This beautiful sculpture appears to belong to Pallava or the early Chola period. Jyestha is found seated, flanked by her children, Manthan and Agni. Additionally, a maid and the crow also accompany her.

Chandikeswara sculpture, found next to Jyestha, is too beautiful and appears to be equally old.

Happy travelling.