The Varadaraja Perumal Temple of Puducherry: A Canvas of Devotion and Art

When you hear the name Puducherry, images of a charming French town, colonial-era buildings, the serene Aurobindo Ashram, the pristine beach road, and breathtaking sunrises over the sea likely come to mind. However, Puducherry has a deep-rooted religious side as well. One of its significant yet lesser-known landmarks is the Varadaraja Perumal Temple, a massive shrine spread across one acre in the old town. This article delves into the history, architecture, and unique features of this temple.

While many temples in South India are known for their grand architecture or intricate sculptures, the Varadaraja Temple stands out for its wall paintings. These artworks, numbering in the hundreds, are from the 20th and 21st centuries and add a vibrant, contemporary touch to the temple’s ambiance. Their sheer volume and aesthetic appeal make them a key highlight of the site.

Determining the exact age of the temple is challenging due to the absence of inscriptions. Architecturally, the temple follows the Dravidian style, featuring multiple shrines, a five-tiered Gopuram at the eastern entrance, and well-designed vimanas above the sanctum and other shrines. However, all these structures appear to have been constructed or extensively renovated in the last 300–400 years.

The granite external walls of the sanctum suggest that the temple’s origins could date back to the Chola period (12th or 13th century CE). Local accounts mention that the temple was originally dedicated to Narasimha, who is now housed in a west-facing shrine behind the main deity.

During the Hindu-Christian riots of 1746, the Vedapureeswarar Temple was completely destroyed. It is believed that Dubashi Ananda Ranga Pillai and the locals safeguarded some of its icons by relocating them to the Varadaraja Temple.

The temple’s eastern entrance features a grand five-tiered Gopuram, adorned with colorful and intricate stucco images.

Inside the sanctum, a magnificent seven-foot-tall icon of Varadaraja Perumal stands with four arms, holding the chakra and shankha in his upper hands. His consorts, Sri Devi and Bhoo Devi, flank him on either side. Above the sanctum rises a two-tiered Dravidian vimana.

The Utsava Murti, Devadirajan, also in a standing posture with his consorts, is housed in the Ardha Mandapa.

The inner prakara walls are covered with colorful stucco images of all 108 Divya Desam Perumals, making it a visual treat for devotees.

A grand Dwajasthambha (flagstaff), Bali Peetha, and a Garuda shrine with an elegantly designed vimana face the main sanctum.

The Maha Mandapa consists of several interconnected smaller mandapas. The mandapa ceilings are adorned with beautiful paintings.

The temple’s original deity, Narasimha, is enshrined in a separate west-facing shrine. The outer prakara houses shrines for Visvaksena (south-facing), Hanuman, Tirumazhisai Alwar, Nammalvar, Periyalvar, and Ramanuja (eastern side). In the southern prakara, Ramanuja (north-facing) and Desikar (facing Ramanuja) are enshrined in separate sub-shrines.

The temple tank, Chandra Pushkarini, is situated on the western side.

On the western outer prakara, two shrines are dedicated to Perun Devi Thayar, the presiding Goddess, and Andal. Both shrines feature front-facing mandapas and are crowned with elegant three-tiered vimanas.

The mandapa of Perun Devi Thayar is adorned with exquisite paintings depicting the life story of Andal along the upper sections of its walls. In contrast, the mandapa of Andal showcases vivid paintings illustrating key scenes from the Ramayana, adding to the temple’s rich visual and narrative appeal.

Near Perun Devi Thayar’s shrine stands the east-facing Pandarinatha shrine, where Krishna is enshrined with a distinct iconography. Holding the shankha in his left hand facing downward, this depiction is a rare and captivating representation of the deity. The shrine is topped with a beautifully designed Vesara-style vimana, enhancing its grandeur.

In the northeastern corner of the temple complex lies an octagonal mandapa, an architectural marvel attributed to the Nattukottai Chettiar community. The ceiling of this mandapa is adorned with intricate artwork, featuring eight groups of circular pillars enclosed within a rectangular structure with a traditional Madras-style ceiling. The walls are embellished with vibrant paintings narrating the story of Tirupati Balaji and depicting the Dasavatara, making this mandapa a visual delight.

Adjacent to the Andal shrine, a south-facing Kodanda Rama shrine houses Rama accompanied by his brother Lakshmana, his beloved consort Sita and his devoted follower Hanuman. The shrine also has magnificent metal icons of Rama, Sita, Lakshmana, and Hanuman. These bronze images are particularly striking, exhibiting distinct Vijayanagara-era craftsmanship. Notable features include the circular crowns of Rama and Lakshmana, the intricate hairstyle of Hanuman, and the gracefully sculpted bows that tower above Rama and Lakshmana. Historical records reveal that these remarkable icons were unearthed in 1902 from Vainthi Kuppam, adding an intriguing historical dimension to the temple’s heritage.

With its blend of architectural elegance, artistic brilliance, and deep-rooted historical connections, the Varadaraja Perumal Temple stands as a testament to Puducherry’s vibrant spiritual and cultural legacy.

Happy travelling.