Indian Columbus

In the previous part of this series, I introduced the Ramalingeshwara group of temples at Avani , placing them within the historical context of the Nolamba dynasty , and also exploring the legendary association of the site with the story of Sita, Luv, and Kush . In this part, let us step closer to the temple and take in its setting, layout, and architectural features , beginning with the entrance itself. The Setting of the Temple Complex The temple complex is spread across an area of roughly 1.1 acres , excluding the surrounding waterbodies and structures outside the main enclosure. It is oriented east-facing , as is common with many Shiva temples. What immediately stands out is the absence of a towering superstructure above the entrance. Instead of a later-period gopuram, the entrance presents a more compact, stone-built mandapa-like structure (the base of the tower) , reflecting its early medieval origins. The Entrance Structure The entrance is defined by a solid granite struct...

As one travels along the road from Walajabad to Kanchipuram, the landscape gradually opens into quiet stretches of fields, scattered trees, and small village habitations. In the midst of this serene setting, at Thangi village, stands a modest yet powerful shrine dedicated to Pazhandi Amman, a deity deeply rooted in the local tradition of guardian worship. Pazhandi Amman is revered as the kaaval deivam , the guardian deity of the village, believed to watch over its boundaries, its people, and their way of life. Unlike large temple complexes, shrines of this kind are intimate and direct in character, remaining closely connected to the everyday life of the local community. The temple itself is simple in form, yet striking in presence. Painted in bright yellow with red borders, the structure stands out vividly against the green rural backdrop. Inside the sanctum, Sri Pazhandi Amman appears in a seated posture, combining grace with authority. Her icon follows a traditional form associate...

Every city has a place where you can understand its rhythm without trying too hard. In Coimbatore, the Race Course is one such stretch. At first, it may just appear as a circular road with trees and a walking track. But as you spend time here, you begin to notice how thoughtfully this space has evolved. The layout itself hints at an earlier life. The circular form suggests that this may once have been associated with racing activity. Today, that same structure has been retained and adapted beautifully. At the centre lies a large residential zone with spacious homes, surrounded by a continuous road. Beyond that, more houses line the outer edge, giving the entire area a layered character. What makes the Race Course special is not just its design, but how it is used. Early in the morning and again in the evening, the place comes alive. Walkers, joggers, families, elderly groups deep in conversation, and even those who just come to observe;  everyone finds a place here. The walking...

There are places where history speaks loudly through towering monuments. And then there are places like this, where it whispers. A short distance away from the lagoon waters and fishing boats of Pulicat , stands a walled enclosure that many visitors miss. Those who do find it often stand quietly for a while, unsure of what exactly they are looking at. Rows of old graves. Weathered stone. Silence. This is the Dutch Cemetery of Pulicat. Established in 1657, it is one of the oldest European cemeteries in India. Today, it stands not as a monument of power, but as a fragile reminder of a time when Pulicat was one of the most important ports on the Coromandel Coast. A Port That Drew the World Pulicat was not always the quiet fishing settlement we see today. During the Chola period, it grew into a significant maritime centre. From the 14th century, it came under the Vijayanagara Empire , and its importance only increased. Traders from across regions arrived here. Muslim merchants had a...

When we speak of Mamallapuram, we immediately think of the Shore Temple, the Five Rathas, or the Great Penance. But just a little before the Tiger Cave, at Saluvankuppam, lies a site that quietly rewrites the history of this region. This is not a standing temple in the conventional sense. What we see here today are the remains of a shrine that existed in layers, one built over another, across centuries. And interestingly, its story came back to light only after a disaster. (Note: I have written about this site in my blog in 2009 itself. I have covering this place again with more details now.) A Discovery After the Tsunami The tsunami of December 2004 caused widespread destruction along the coast. But as the sea receded dramatically, it briefly revealed buried structures along the shoreline. At Saluvankuppam, archaeologists noticed unusual remains near the Tiger Cave complex. Excavations by the Archaeological Survey of India soon uncovered something remarkable,  the remains of...

This is the 17th article in my series on the Kanheri Caves . In the earlier parts, I explored the architectural layout and sculptural grandeur of Cave No. 1, 2, 3 and 4, covering their majestic entrances, imposing pillars, colossal Buddha images, donor couple sculptures, extensive sculptural panels along the verandah walls, stupas, lion crowned pillars, votive stupas, some of the earliest Buddha figures, and much more. In this part, I now move slightly northward from Cave No. 4 to cover Cave No. 5. Cave No. 5 is not a cave in the usual sense. What we see here are two water cisterns carved into the rock. Close to these cisterns are two damaged niches, each showing a Buddha seated with pendant legs. Though weathered, the posture is still recognizable, and the hands are arranged in Vyakhyana mudra. An inscription is found above these cisterns, adding historical depth to what otherwise appears to be a simple functional excavation. For the benefit of beginners:   Vyakhyana mudra is a ...