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Coimbatore Race Course Trail – A Walk Through the City’s Most Lively Stretch

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Every city has a place where you can understand its rhythm without trying too hard. In Coimbatore, the Race Course is one such stretch. At first, it may just appear as a circular road with trees and a walking track. But as you spend time here, you begin to notice how thoughtfully this space has evolved. The layout itself hints at an earlier life. The circular form suggests that this may once have been associated with racing activity. Today, that same structure has been retained and adapted beautifully. At the centre lies a large residential zone with spacious homes, surrounded by a continuous road. Beyond that, more houses line the outer edge, giving the entire area a layered character. What makes the Race Course special is not just its design, but how it is used. Early in the morning and again in the evening, the place comes alive. Walkers, joggers, families, elderly groups deep in conversation, and even those who just come to observe;  everyone finds a place here. The walking...

Dutch Cemetery, Pulicat – Echoes from a Forgotten Port

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There are places where history speaks loudly through towering monuments. And then there are places like this, where it whispers. A short distance away from the lagoon waters and fishing boats of Pulicat , stands a walled enclosure that many visitors miss. Those who do find it often stand quietly for a while, unsure of what exactly they are looking at. Rows of old graves. Weathered stone. Silence. This is the Dutch Cemetery of Pulicat. Established in 1657, it is one of the oldest European cemeteries in India. Today, it stands not as a monument of power, but as a fragile reminder of a time when Pulicat was one of the most important ports on the Coromandel Coast. A Port That Drew the World Pulicat was not always the quiet fishing settlement we see today. During the Chola period, it grew into a significant maritime centre. From the 14th century, it came under the Vijayanagara Empire , and its importance only increased. Traders from across regions arrived here. Muslim merchants had a...

Saluvankuppam Murugan Temple – A Shrine Beneath the Sands

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When we speak of Mamallapuram, we immediately think of the Shore Temple, the Five Rathas, or the Great Penance. But just a little before the Tiger Cave, at Saluvankuppam, lies a site that quietly rewrites the history of this region. This is not a standing temple in the conventional sense. What we see here today are the remains of a shrine that existed in layers, one built over another, across centuries. And interestingly, its story came back to light only after a disaster. (Note: I have written about this site in my blog in 2009 itself. I have covering this place again with more details now.) A Discovery After the Tsunami The tsunami of December 2004 caused widespread destruction along the coast. But as the sea receded dramatically, it briefly revealed buried structures along the shoreline. At Saluvankuppam, archaeologists noticed unusual remains near the Tiger Cave complex. Excavations by the Archaeological Survey of India soon uncovered something remarkable,  the remains of...

Kanheri Caves - Part 17

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This is the 17th article in my series on the Kanheri Caves . In the earlier parts, I explored the architectural layout and sculptural grandeur of Cave No. 1, 2, 3 and 4, covering their majestic entrances, imposing pillars, colossal Buddha images, donor couple sculptures, extensive sculptural panels along the verandah walls, stupas, lion crowned pillars, votive stupas, some of the earliest Buddha figures, and much more. In this part, I now move slightly northward from Cave No. 4 to cover Cave No. 5. Cave No. 5 is not a cave in the usual sense. What we see here are two water cisterns carved into the rock. Close to these cisterns are two damaged niches, each showing a Buddha seated with pendant legs. Though weathered, the posture is still recognizable, and the hands are arranged in Vyakhyana mudra. An inscription is found above these cisterns, adding historical depth to what otherwise appears to be a simple functional excavation. For the benefit of beginners:   Vyakhyana mudra is a ...

Kanchi Kailasanatha Temple - Part 2

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This is Part 2 of my series on the magnificent and exceptional Kailasanathar Temple in Kanchipuram . In the previous article, I stood before the temple and wondered where to begin. Before we step into its architecture, sculptures, or inscriptions, it is only right that we first understand the hands that created it. Who built this temple? It was the Pallavas. But the Kailasanathar Temple did not appear suddenly. It is the result of centuries of evolution, an idea that slowly took shape, matured, and finally reached perfection. The Pallavas – A Dynasty That Shaped the South The Pallava dynasty ruled from around the 3rd century CE to the 9th century CE, governing a significant part of South India with Kanchipuram as their capital. They were not just rulers. They were builders, patrons, thinkers, and visionaries who played a defining role in shaping the cultural and architectural identity of Tamil Nadu. Like many Indian dynasties, the Pallavas too traced their origins to divine ...

S. Satyamurti Statue at Ripon Building, Chennai – A Tribute to a Congress Leader and Former Mayor of Madras

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S. Satyamurti (1887–1943) occupies a prominent place in India’s freedom movement, particularly in the political history of Madras Presidency. A senior leader of the Indian National Congress, Satyamurti was known for his powerful oratory, administrative acumen, and unwavering commitment to democratic principles. He played a key role in strengthening the Congress organization in South India and was instrumental in bringing many young leaders into the movement, including K. Kamaraj, who later became one of Tamil Nadu’s most influential Chief Ministers. PC - Shiva Arunaachalam Born in Thirumayam in present-day Tamil Nadu, Satyamurti pursued law and quickly emerged as a respected advocate before dedicating himself fully to the freedom struggle. He served as the President of the Tamil Nadu Congress Committee and was also elected as the Mayor of Madras in 1939. During his tenure, he initiated important civic projects, including efforts related to water supply, most notably the Poondi reserv...

Exploring Humayun's Tomb Complex – A Journey Through Mughal Memory and Architecture

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The Humayun’s Tomb Complex in Delhi is not just the resting place of a Mughal emperor; it is a vast, architecturally rich necropolis that includes a series of monumental gateways, tombs of nobility, mosques, and enclosures that span a century of Indo-Islamic evolution. Commissioned in the 1560s by Haji Begum , Humayun’s widow, and designed by Mirak Mirza Ghiyas , this site was the first garden-tomb of the Indian subcontinent. While the centerpiece is undoubtedly Humayun’s Tomb , the journey through its complex introduces us to forgotten courtiers, Persian artisans, and the architectural experiments that culminated in the Taj Mahal. Let us walk through the complex in the order a visitor would experience it,  starting from the West Gate and concluding at the emperor's tomb . 🚪 West Gate – The Main Entrance 📍 First stop for any visitor As you enter the complex, you pass through the West Gate , a high-arched Mughal structure built of red sandstone and white marble. Its two-sto...