Indian Columbus

When we speak of Mamallapuram, we immediately think of the Shore Temple, the Five Rathas, or the Great Penance. But just a little before the Tiger Cave, at Saluvankuppam, lies a site that quietly rewrites the history of this region. This is not a standing temple in the conventional sense. What we see here today are the remains of a shrine that existed in layers, one built over another, across centuries. And interestingly, its story came back to light only after a disaster. (Note: I have written about this site in my blog in 2009 itself. I have covering this place again with more details now.) A Discovery After the Tsunami The tsunami of December 2004 caused widespread destruction along the coast. But as the sea receded dramatically, it briefly revealed buried structures along the shoreline. At Saluvankuppam, archaeologists noticed unusual remains near the Tiger Cave complex. Excavations by the Archaeological Survey of India soon uncovered something remarkable,  the remains of...

This is Part 2 of my series on the magnificent and exceptional Kailasanathar Temple in Kanchipuram . In the previous article, I stood before the temple and wondered where to begin. Before we step into its architecture, sculptures, or inscriptions, it is only right that we first understand the hands that created it. Who built this temple? It was the Pallavas. But the Kailasanathar Temple did not appear suddenly. It is the result of centuries of evolution, an idea that slowly took shape, matured, and finally reached perfection. The Pallavas – A Dynasty That Shaped the South The Pallava dynasty ruled from around the 3rd century CE to the 9th century CE, governing a significant part of South India with Kanchipuram as their capital. They were not just rulers. They were builders, patrons, thinkers, and visionaries who played a defining role in shaping the cultural and architectural identity of Tamil Nadu. Like many Indian dynasties, the Pallavas too traced their origins to divine ...

When we speak of Mamallapuram , the mind usually goes to the Shore Temple, the Five Rathas, or the great relief often called Arjuna’s Penance. But there is one monument here that many visitors miss. Not because it is insignificant. Not because it is hidden. But because it is alive. The Adi Varaha Cave Temple is a living shrine. The early Pallava inscriptions within the cave, along with later Chola records referring to the shrine as Parameshvara-Mahavaraha-Vishnu-Griham , indicate that it has remained in active worship from the time of its creation. Even today, the temple opens only during fixed pooja hours in the morning and evening. For the rest of the day, it remains closed. For long periods in the past, entry was restricted to foreigners. That limited access explains why the temple finds little mention in early European travel accounts and why it continues to remain outside the usual tourist circuit. Yet architecturally and historically, this cave is among the most complete and b...

If you visit India and miss Tamil Nadu, you have missed a civilizational chapter. If you travel across Tamil Nadu and skip Kanchipuram , you have missed a sacred capital. And if you walk through Kanchipuram, see its many celebrated shrines, but do not stand before the Kailasanathar Temple , then you have not truly seen Kanchi. In fact, I would say something stronger. Even if you visit only the Kailasanathar Temple and return without seeing any other shrine in Kanchipuram, you can still proudly claim that you have understood the essence of this ancient city. Such is the stature of this monument. Where Does One Even Begin? I have written about vast temple complexes, cave shrines carved into living rock, and towering Chola masterpieces. Yet, when I stand before Kailasanathar, I find myself pausing. Should I begin with its architecture, one of the earliest surviving large structural temples in Tamil Nadu, built entirely in sandstone? Or with its sculptures, countless forms of Shi...

Photo courtesy - Mr. Muthu Vignesh Counting the stars in the vast sky may be a challenging task, but the multitude of temples in the fertile expanse of Tirunelveli seems endless. Nestled along the banks of the purifying Tamraparani River, this region conceals numerous best-kept secrets, each waiting to be discovered. Let's delve into one such concealed gem— Chepparai . Situated approximately 15 kilometers from Tirunelveli and 1.5 km from Rajavallipuram, this quaint village is embraced by the river on one side and expansive fields on the remaining three. Amidst this serene landscape stands a colossal temple dedicated to Lord Nataraja, affectionately known as Azhagiya Koothan . Photo courtesy - Mr. Muthu Vignesh The lore of Lord Nataraja's celestial dance unfolds across five principal venues, collectively referred to as the Pancha Sabhas . These include the Por Sabhai or Kanaka Sabha (the golden hall) in Chidambaram, Rajita Sabha or Velli Ambalam (the silver hall) in Madurai, Rat...