Exploring the World's First Nataraja: The Original Tamra Sabha

Photo courtesy - Mr. Muthu Vignesh

Counting the stars in the vast sky may be a challenging task, but the multitude of temples in the fertile expanse of Tirunelveli seems endless. Nestled along the banks of the purifying Tamraparani River, this region conceals numerous best-kept secrets, each waiting to be discovered.

Let's delve into one such concealed gem—Chepparai. Situated approximately 15 kilometers from Tirunelveli and 1.5 km from Rajavallipuram, this quaint village is embraced by the river on one side and expansive fields on the remaining three. Amidst this serene landscape stands a colossal temple dedicated to Lord Nataraja, affectionately known as Azhagiya Koothan.

Photo courtesy - Mr. Muthu Vignesh

The lore of Lord Nataraja's celestial dance unfolds across five principal venues, collectively referred to as the Pancha Sabhas. These include the Por Sabhai or Kanaka Sabha (the golden hall) in Chidambaram, Rajita Sabha or Velli Ambalam (the silver hall) in Madurai, Ratna Sabha (the hall adorned with rubies) in Tiruvalangadu, Chitra Sabha (the hall adorned with paintings) in Courtallam, and the Tamra Sabha (the hall of copper) in Tirunelveli.

However, the Sthala Purana of Tirunelveli's Nellaiyappar Temple presents an alternate list, attributing it to Lord Shiva himself. In this rendition, there are 21 sabhas, with seven esteemed ones. Among them are the Veda Sabha in Tirumaraikkadu, Manicka Sabha in Devamaasabha, Kanaka Sabha in Chidambaram, Akasha Sabha in Kanchi, Rajata Sabha in Madurai, Chitra Sabha in Courtallam, and Tamra Sabha in Tirunelveli. The Tamra Sabha, in particular, holds paramount significance.

While visitors to the grand Nellaiyappar temple may have encountered the Tamra Sabha, an intriguing version suggests that the one in Chepparai is the original. The Sabha in Nellaiyappar temple, lacking the Nataraja icon, only houses the bronze icon during special occasions. In contrast, the Tamra Sabha in Chepparai permanently features the bronze icon of Nataraja. Significantly, the Tamil name Chepparai translates to the "hall of copper," echoing the Sanskrit term Tamra Sabha.

Legend

Legend has it that Simha Varma, also known as Hiranya Varma, the founder of the Pallava dynasty, sought to create a Nataraja icon entirely crafted from gold for the Tillai Nataraja temple. Despite numerous attempts by various sculptors, none could fulfill his vision. Notably, the sculptor Namasivaya Muthu Sthapati caught the king's eye with his bronze creation. Encouraged, the king commissioned him to fashion a similar image using pure gold. As the sculptor neared completion, an old man, Lord Shiva in disguise, slyly added copper coins to the melting gold. Enraged, the king imprisoned the sculptor. In a dream, Shiva appeared to Simha Varma, advising him to install the secondly crafted image in the Chidambaram temple. He assured the king that the image would appear golden only to him. Additionally, Shiva instructed him to send the original bronze icon to Southern Tamil Nadu.

Journeying southward, the sculptors and soldiers, carrying the bronze Nataraja icon, reached the northern banks of the Tamraparani River. Struggling with its weight, they placed it down, and it mysteriously vanished. They reported the incident to the local King Rama Pandya. Meantime, Rama Pandya who would visit Nellaiyappar temple everyday could not cross the flooded river to reach Tirunelveli. Shiva appeared in Rama Pandya's dream, guiding him to a spot on the northern riverbanks, where he would hear anklet sounds and find a multitude of ants. There, he was to install a Shiva Linga. Following the instructions, Rama Pandya discovered the lost bronze Nataraja icon and erected a temple, naming the deity Azhagiya Koothan. He also installed a Shiva Linga named Nellaiyappar in the same temple.

Photo courtesy - Mr. Muthu Vignesh

A prince under Rama Pandya named Veera Pandya admired the Nataraja image in Chepparai and requested similar icons. The sculptor complied, but fearing replication, the king ordered the sculptor's execution. Instead, his soldiers severed the sculptor's right arm. Learning of this, Rama Pandya severed both arms of Veera Pandya and placed wooden arms on sculptor. The two crafted icons were installed in nearby villages, Kattari Mangalam and Kari Choolnda Mangalam. Using the wooden arm, the sculptor fashioned another splendid icon in Karuvelankulam, even plucking its cheek in amazement. This icon, bearing cheek marks, remains in Karuvelankulam.

The Nataraja icon in Chepparai predates the renowned Chidambaram Nataraja, and collectively, these five temples housing Nataraja sculptures by the same artist are known as Pancha Padima Sthalams.

Photo courtesy - Mr. Muthu Vignesh

History

Delving into the historical roots of Chepparai's revered temple, local legend traces its origins back to the pre-historic or early Pallava period. However, the original temple, likely took form during the 10th or 11th century CE. The exquisite bronze image, distinguished by its unique color among similar icons, aligns with the artistic style prevalent in the 10th century Chola era, according to some scholars, including "Poetry in Stone" Mr. Vijayakumar, whom I had the privilege of discussing this matter with.

The temple faced a severe trial in 1721 CE when a catastrophic flood swept through the village, resulting in the complete destruction of the temple. Fragments of the original structure, remnants of a bygone era, can still be discovered in a handful of temples in neighboring villages.

In the aftermath of this calamity, the present temple emerged in 1729, a testament to the resilience and devotion of the people. Aarai Azhagappa Mudaliar, a distinguished figure who served as Dalavai under Rani Mangammal, the guardian of Minor King Vijaya Ranga Chokkanatha Nayakkar, took the initiative to rebuild the temple. Administering regions such as Madurai, Tirunelveli, and Trichy, Mudaliar was renowned for his contributions to various temples in the Tirunelveli region.

The mysteries of how the ancient bronze icon of Nataraja alone withstood the ravages of the flood, preserving its antiquity in the 300+ years old temple, remain unanswered. This singular icon stands as a resilient witness to the temple's enduring history amidst the passage of time.

According to local accounts, Azhagiya Kootha Desika, the temple priest, reportedly managed to evade the ravaging flood. It is said that he played a pivotal role in advising Mudaliar to reconstruct the new temple adhering to the original plan and structure.

Temple Layout and Murtis

Esteemed as the oldest Nataraja metal icon, this temple designates Nataraja as its principal deity similar to Chidambaram, boasting a dedicated ratha for the divine dancer. The Tamra Sabha, featuring a copper-plated ceiling, houses the enchanting Nataraja and his consort, Sivakami. The dance form of Nataraja here is called Kalika Tandava. Words fall short to capture the emotions evoked in his presence, with a lifetime seeming insufficient to fully appreciate the grace and beauty of this captivating deity.

Adorned with golden-plated pillars, the smaller mandapa shines brilliantly, while the larger one, with a Kerala-style conical ceiling featuring wooden designs in stone, displays life-sized images of Gods and humans in the Anjali mudra. Figures like Ganesha, Subramanya, Vishnu, Brahma, Rama Pandya, Agni, Vyagrapada, and Patanjali grace the pillars, along with small images of Gundodara, Indra, and others.

The Sandana Sabhapati shrine, sculpted from stone and traditionally anointed with sandalwood paste, shares space with Sivakami, enhancing the sacred ambiance. A pillar near the entrance showcases Brahma in Anjali mudra.

The east-facing sanctum houses the Shiva Linga named Nellaiyappar, with Kantimati, an elegant two-armed Goddess holding a flower, enshrined in a separate south-facing shrine. Ganesha and Kartikeya adorn the entrance of Nellaiyappar, with the Tamra Sabha positioned between the two shrines.

The prakara features a shrine for Dakshinamurti, and hollow niches on the other two sides of the outer wall host tiny figures of Yoga Narasimha and Yoga Brahma on toranas on the top. Chandikeshwara maintains his presence, and within the southern circumambulatory path, nine small circular peethams symbolize the Sapta Matas, Ganeshas, and Veera Bhadra. Additionally, small figures of Sapta Matas and Ganesha adorn the prakara. Corner shrines host Kanni Moola Ganapati and Subramanya-Valli-Devasena.

Various deities, including Surya, Chandra, Adhikara Nandi, Shaneeswara, Jura Deva, Meikandar, Bhairava, Somaskanda, Lakshmi, Vishwanatha-Vishalakshi, grace the temple. Dhwajastambha, bali peetha, and Nandi face the shrine of Nellaiyappar.

The mandapa near the temple entrance is where the processional icons are kept during the special occasions. The pillars of the mandapa are adorned with the life size sculptures of Patanjali and Vyagrapada.

Bilva is the sacred tree of the sthalam. Adjacent to the temple, the small waterbody known as Agni Teertha and Karaikkal Ammai Mandapa, housing Kali, contribute to the spiritual aura.

Happy travelling.