The Charms of Kodaganallur - Discovering Peace in a Spiritual Village

How captivating is the Tamraparani River! Its unparalleled beauty unfolds at this exquisite location, where the surrounding village has maintained its authenticity since the 12th century, radiating fertility and tranquility. The spiritual riverbank, adorned with temples, stirs a profound sense of spirituality within. The yearning to forsake worldly affairs and embrace a life of spiritual solitude deepens, creating an irresistible allure to immerse oneself in the sacred waters of Tamraparani and offer prayers to Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu.

To my surprise, I'm not alone in this spiritual awakening experienced upon visiting the village. Numerous others share this sentiment, each carrying a unique story. Join me in unraveling the tales of these enlightened individuals and exploring the captivating temples nestled on the banks of the majestic Tamraparani in the beautiful village of Kodaganallur.

What enhances the profound sense of spirituality in this place? Is it the swift and beautiful flow of the Tamraparani River, or perhaps the tranquil and authentic surroundings? The answer remains uncertain. In a locale where the river and fertile land themselves hold immense allure, the presence of ancient temples nestled in the village adds an extra layer of charm, akin to a delightful bonus.

Gracefully positioned along the riverbanks, next to a small Vetri Vinayaka temple, a humble shrine houses the Vishwanatha Shiva Linga.According to legend, a Siddha brought this Linga from Kasi (Varanasi) and ceremoniously installed it here, enhancing the spiritual ambiance. The sacred space is further sanctified by the presence of the Siddha's samadhi within the shrine.

As we step ashore, our attention is drawn to the elegant Sringeri Shankara Mutt on our left. While Sringeri mutts are not uncommon, this holds historical significance as the first of its kind established in Tamil Nadu. Against the backdrop of Kodaganallur's scenic beauty, inspiring those on a spiritual path, the village earned the title of Dakshina Sringeri from the legendary Sankaracharya of Sringeri, His Holiness Abhinava Narasimha Bharati, who visited in the early twentieth century. Established under his auspices, the mutt stands as a testament to the village's spiritual allure.

Notably, the celebrated Yoga Guru and spiritual leader, Swami Shivananda, spent formative years in this mutt during his youth, engaging in rigorous austerities. This village held special significance for him, being his mother's native place.

Opposite the mutt, a haven of divine tranquility awaits in the form of the Abhimuktesvara temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. At its heart lies the Bana Linga, housed in a west-facing sanctum. This sacred Linga, adorned with a swarna sarapa rekha (golden serpent line) on its body, is believed to have been ceremoniously installed by the revered Romasa Rishi. Notably, the serpent disciple named Karkotaka found solace in worshiping this Linga, purging itself of sin.

A south-facing shrine reveals the presence of Goddess Soundarambikai. Adorned with a chakram on her forehead, the Goddess graces the sanctum with her divine presence. A unique shrine holds a rare form of Dakshinamurti. In this distinct representation, Dakshinamurti takes on the form of Ardhanari, embodying both masculine and feminine energies. Intriguingly, Dakshinamurti is depicted seated with his left foot on Apasmara and his right foot folded on his lap—a departure from the more conventional depiction where his left foot is typically folded. In this sacred space, Karkotaka is depicted worshiping Dakshinamurti, emphasizing the profound spiritual connection between the serpent and the divine.

This sacred temple received the patronage of Kodaganallur Sundara Swamigal, a prominent figure from the lineage of Appaiya Deekshitar. Known for his work "Nijananda Vilasam," Sundara Swamigal chose Kodaganallur for his austerities, spending numerous years in tapasya amid the Nanal bushes on the banks of Tamraparni. In his later years, he gained renown for lecturing on Suta Samhita and for extensively renovating temples across South India.

Apart from the 12th-century temple, there exists another Shiva temple within this village.

Romasa Maharishi executed a sacred task under his Guru's (Agastya) guidance. He placed nine flowers into the Tamraparni River, installing Shiva Lingas at the spots where the flowers landed. These nine temples, collectively referred to as Nava Kailasham, hold a significant place in Tirunelveli and Tiruchendur zones. This  temple, associated with the planet Chevvai (Angaraka/Mangal/Mars), is the third Nava Kailasham temple.

This modest temple, believed to have origins dating back to the later Pandya era in the 12th century, has Kailasanathar as the presiding deity. The Goddess is Sivakami, who is also called Ananda Gauri or Avudai Nayaki.

In addition to the pair of Shiva temples, there exists another venerable temple dedicated to Vishnu.

A Mahabharata narrative involves Nala, the king in disguise during exile. While rescuing Karkotaka, the serpent, from a forest fire, Nala is bitten. Plagued by sins for ingratitude, Karkotaka seeks redemption and knowledge from Nisaka Rishi in the Himalayas. Following the sage's guidance, Karkotaka performs penance on the banks of the Tamraparani River, where Vishnu blesses him. Agastya becomes Karkotaka's mentor, restoring his powers and blessing him with Brahma Gnana. Karkotaka gifts Nala a transformative robe, restoring his handsomeness.

Historically known as Kodanur and later designated Kulasekhara Chaturvedi Mangalam by royal decree, the village's name is tied to the legend of the great snake Karkotaka receiving a divine vision of Vishnu at this sacred site.

The principal deity, Brihan Madhava, is a striking green stucco image. In Sri Vaikuntham, Vishnu is referred to as Kallar Piran, and in Alwar Tirunagari, he is known as Adi Piran. However, in this sacred site, he is recognized as Periya Piran. The four-armed standing deity is accompanied by his two consorts, Bhoomi and Neela Devis, depicted in light yellow stucco images. Notably, unlike other temples where Sri Devi and Bhoo Devi accompany him, here Neela Devi takes the place of Sri Devi.

The Periapiran temple boasts six inscriptional records, dating from around 1165 CE to approximately 1230 CE. These inscriptions were documented in the Annual Reports of Epigraph of the year 1933, Nos. 203-208.

In conclusion, the village of Kodaganallur,with its blend of natural beauty and spiritual heritage, stands as a testament to the profound connection between the divine and those who seek it.

Happy travelling.