Unveiling the Spiritual Mystique of Kodaganallur Abimukteswara Temple

What an enchanting river! Tamraparani showcases its unparalleled beauty at this exquisite location. The surrounding village, maintaining its authenticity from the 12th century, exudes fertility and tranquility. The spiritual riverbank adorned with temples evokes a profound sense of spirituality within me. The desire to renounce worldly affairs and embrace a life of spiritual solitude intensifies. To immerse oneself in the sacred waters of Tamraparani and offer prayers to Lord Shiva becomes an alluring aspiration.

Surprisingly, I'm not alone in experiencing this spiritual awakening upon visiting the village. Many others share this sentiment, each with a unique story to tell. Join me in unraveling the tales of these enlightened individuals and discovering the captivating Abimukteswara temple, nestled on the banks of the majestic Tamraparani, in this beautiful village called Kodaganallur. 

What contributes to the profound sense of spirituality in this place? Is it the swift and beautiful flow of the Tamraparani River, or perhaps the tranquil and authentic surroundings? The answer remains uncertain. Nestled right along the riverbanks, adjacent to a small Vetri Vinayaka temple, a modest shrine houses the Vishwanatha Shiva Linga. Legend has it that a Siddha brought this Linga from Kasi (Varanasi) and ceremoniously installed it here. The spiritual ambiance is further heightened by the presence of the Siddha's samadhi within the shrine, creating a truly sacred space.

As we step ashore, the first structure to our left captures our attention—the elegant Sringeri Shankara Mutt. While Sringeri mutts are not uncommon, this one holds historical significance as the first of its kind established in Tamil Nadu. In the backdrop of Kodaganallur's scenic beauty, which serves as an inspiration for those seeking a spiritual path, the village earned the title of Dakshina Sringeri from the legendary Sankaracharya of Sringeri, His Holiness Abhinava Narasimha Bharati, who visited in the early twentieth century. The mutt, established under his auspices, stands as a testament to the village's spiritual allure.

Adorned with images of Sharda and Adi Shankaracharya, the mutt's entrance is marked by a shrine featuring a substantial icon of Ganesha. Notably, Swami Shivananda, the celebrated Yoga Guru and spiritual leader, spent several formative years in this mutt during his youth, engaging in rigorous austerities. This village held special significance for him, being his mother's native place.

Opposite to the mutt, a haven of divine tranquility awaits in the form of the Abhimuktesvara temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. At the heart of the temple lies the Bana Linga, housed in a west-facing sanctum. This sacred Linga, adorned with a swarna sarapa rekha (golden serpent line) on its body, is believed to have been ceremoniously installed by the revered Romasa Rishi. Notably, the serpent disciple named Karkotaka found solace in worshiping this Linga, purging itself of sin. As a testament to this profound connection, small images of Ganesha and Naga Skanda stand guard at the antarala entrance, while Nandi, the devoted bull, faces the Shiva Linga in the Ardha mandapa. Additionally, newly crafted bronze icons, including Nataraja-Sivakami, find their place in the same mandapa.

Venturing into the maha mandapa, a south-facing shrine reveals the presence of Goddess Soundarambikai. Adorned with a chakram on her forehead, the Goddess graces the sanctum with her divine presence. 

The Mani mandapa, another sacred space within the temple, houses yet another Nandi, positioned to face the revered Shiva Linga. An additional mandapa stands proudly in front of the Mani mandapa, while thinnai-like platforms adorn both sides of the temple entrance, offering spaces for contemplation and reflection.

To the true left side upon entering the temple, a unique shrine holds a rare form of Dakshinamurti. In this distinct representation, Dakshinamurti takes on the form of Ardhanari, embodying both masculine and feminine energies. Intriguingly, Dakshinamurti is depicted seated with his left foot on Apasmara and his right foot folded on his lap—a departure from the more conventional depiction where his left foot is typically folded. In this sacred space, Karkotaka is depicted worshiping Dakshinamurti, emphasizing the profound spiritual connection between the serpent and the divine. Additionally, a small Shiva Linga is reverently placed nearby, enriching the spiritual ambiance of the shrine.

Within the southern circumambulatory path (prakara), the sacred landscape unfolds with nine small circular structures known as peethams. Aligned in a single row facing northward, seven of these peethams symbolize the Sapta Matas, Ganeshas, and Veera Bhadra. Similar peethams grace numerous temples in Tirunelveli and are believed to have been added in the 1700s during the rule of the Kerala kings in Tirunelveli.

The Vimanas crowning the shrines of Abimukteswara and Soundarambikai are not only aesthetically pleasing but also exude an ancient charm. Vimana Koshtas (niches) are adorned with the images of Dakshinamurti in the south, Narasimha in the east, Brahma in the west, and Indra in the west—a unique positioning of Indra right above the presiding deity. The prakara also features sub-shrines dedicated to Kanni moola Ganapati and Subramanya, the latter depicted alongside his consorts in a captivating sculpture. Additionally, Dakshinamurti, Chandikeswara, and Bhairava find their respective places within the prakara.

Following the typical Pandya style of architecture, the niches within the prakara remain unadorned with deities. However, above these hollow niches, toranas boast bas-relief images, with Ganesha gracing the east and Brahma embellishing the north. Notably, the torana in the south may not be visible due to the addition of Dakshinamurti in the southern niche.

This sacred temple received the patronage of Kodaganallur Sundara Swamigal, a prominent figure from the lineage of Appaiya Deekshitar. Sundara Swamigal, known for his work "Nijananda Vilasam," chose Kodaganallur for his austerities and spent numerous years in tapasya amid the Nanal bushes on the banks of Tamraparni. In his later years, he gained renown for lecturing on Suta Samhita and for the extensive renovation of temples across South India.

Historically referred to as Kodanur and subsequently known by royal decree as Kulasekhara Chaturvedi Mangalam, the village's nomenclature is believed to derive from the legend of the great snake Karkotaka, receiving a divine vision of Vishnu at this sacred site.

A historical record, unfortunately missing the date portion, sheds light on a resolution by the Mahasabha of the township. The document highlights a benefactor named  Sri Vallabhadevan from Madurai, who installed a Goddess named 'Tirukkamakottaththu Nachiyar,' referred to as 'Angayarkkanniyar' after his mother, in the temple. In a testament to harmony, both Srivaishnavas and Smarta Shaivas among the landholding gentry of Kodanur were signatories to this resolution, emphasizing their mutual understanding in spiritual matters. The inscription possibly dates back to the time of Maravarman Sundara Pandya I (early 1200s). It is mentioned in the Annual Reports of Epigraph of the year 1933.

Happy travelling.