The Musical Pillars of Nellaiyappar Temple
Continuing my series centered around Tirunelveli's Kantimati Sameta Nellaiyappar Temple, I've previously delved into the Nellaiyappar and Govindan sanctuaries in my preceding two articles. Now, in this piece, I'll be focusing on the remaining architectural components situated at the forefront of the sanctum.
As previously discussed, there are two primary sanctums (moolasthanams) dedicated to Nellaiyappar and Nellai Govindan. Both of these sanctums share the same antarala (inner sanctum) as well as a wide Ardha mandapa (half pavilion). The entrance to the Ardha mandapa is adorned with two imposing stone Dwarapalas on either side. The Dwarapala on the southern side presents a menacing left hand in the Taranjai mudra (gesture of threat), while the other Dwarapala displays a left arm expressing surprise or wonder (vismaya mudra). This distinct style of Dwarapalas is a common feature in many Shiva temples across the Tirunelveli region.
Additionally, near the southern Dwarapala, a grand sculpture of Mukkuruni Vinayaka catches the eye. The elephant-headed deity's trunk is turned towards his right, and he holds a modaka (sweet delicacy) in his right hand, along with a broken tusk in his left. According to Shri S R Balasubramanyam, an authoritative figure on Chola-era temples, this sculpture was crafted during the reign of Rajaraja Chola I.
On the opposite side, adjacent to the other Dwarapala, an exquisite Nayaka-era Subramanya is seated gracefully upon a peacock.
Inside the Maha mandapa (great hall), a Nandi sculpture faces towards Nellaiyappar.
An additional outer mandapa named Mani mandapa boasts a ceiling adorned with floral motifs. This mandapa houses one of the temple's prominent attractions – the musical pillars that produce distinct musical notes when struck. Supporting this mandapa are ten such musical pillars. Surrounding the main pillars are 48 smaller stone pillars. Among a very few temples of Tamil Nadu having musical pillars, this is the oldest and most popular. Notably, a sizable bell hangs from the center of this hall. Accessible via steps located on the southern and northern sides, this mandapa offers a unique experience.
Adding to the intrigue, the walls of the mandapa and the steps showcase a variety of captivating relief images. On the southern side, a panel depicts Cheraman Perumal and Sundarar embarking on their journey to Kailash astride an elephant and a horse, respectively. They are accompanied by a retinue of people. The northern wall features a captivating panel portraying the ten-headed Ravana attempting to raise Kailasha with his twenty arms. Atop Kailasha, Shiva is seated, with his concerned consort Uma held reassuringly at his waist. Flanking them are Ganesha and Subramanya. The figures of Brahma and Vishnu are depicted with folded hands in the anjali mudra (gesture of salutation). Additionally, two celestial beings accompany them.
Happy travelling.
This article is Part 19 of the series of articles I write about Kantimati Sameta Nellaiyappar Temple.
The other parts of the series can be accessed through the below-listed links.
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