The Iconic St George's Cathedral in Chennai

It's beautiful! It's a marvel! I am running short of words to describe this incredible neoclassical architecture. You list the beautiful churches of Chennai or list down all the extraordinary structures of the city. You would not be able to ignore this iconic St. George's Cathedral. A visit to the town remains incomplete without paying a visit to this iconic church. And, the history written about the city remains unaccomplished if this historic site is omitted. Come! Let us explore the Cathedral and its history!

(Note: The Cathedral is not new to me. Many years ago, I was working in an office in the next building. I have spent most of my lunch breaks in the cemetery. This is perhaps the only church that I have visited the most. Hence, I have written about this church and cemetery many years ago in my blog. I am writing this article about the same site, with a lot of additional information and more historical details.)

History

Madras was growing! It was expanding well beyond the walls of St. George's Fort. The Britishers started buying lands and bungalows on the newly developed city extensions. St. Mary's Church inside the Fort could no more serve for religious purposes. Perhaps, the idea of having a new church was triggered due to this reason. Thus, St. George's Church was born in 1815 CE.

The East India Company's Senior Engineer Col. James L. Caldwell designed the structure of the church. His assistant, Maj. Thomas Fiott de Havilland, completed the construction. The total budget for the construction was 57,225 pagodas. The entire amount was funded by people with the aid of a lottery fund.

Steeple

Although the church was completed in 1815, it was consecrated on 6th January 1816. Rt. Rev. Thomas Fanshaw Middleton, the first Anglican Bishop in India, consecrated the church.

The road that was constructed to connect the church became one of the most happening places in the city. It is named after the site as the Cathedral Road.

Belfry

The belfry was completed in 1832.

In 1835 CE, the church was upgraded as the Cathedral.

On 27th September 1947, the landmark event of the inauguration of the United Church of South India took place here. Thus, the differences among various Christian groups were sorted out and all of them came under one umbrella named CSI.

Turret Clock

Architecture and Layout

Let me reiterate! The Cathedral is one of the best structures in the city.

The Cathedral's splendid architecture, built in Neoclassical style, has a massive rectangular portico leading to the main entrance. The iconic circular columns and the 139 feet high steeple give a majestic look to the entire building.

Spire

Along with the turret clocks, the steeple, the large stained glass windows and white chunam finish enhance the majestic look of the structure. Together, all these elements make the church look like an ancient Roman temple.

The rectangular portico has a triangular pediment atop. It is supported by 18 circular pillars in three rows. The turret clocks, gifted by the East India Company's Directors in 1828, are set up on three faces of the steeple. The belfry and spire are found above the turret clocks.

Portico

There are eight bells of varied sizes, which were made in London in 1871 CE. The largest bell is 42 inches high and 48 inches in diameter. The smallest bell is 24 inches in height and 30 inches in diameter. As they are installed inside the central portion of the pinnacle below the clock, they are not visible from outside.

The two side entrances, too have small rectangular structures with triangular pediment atop and supported by six pillars and two pilasters.

The spacious interior, supported by two rows of massive circular-shaped pillars, has a 100 feet long nave flanked by two aisles and two side entrances. The vestry and Chorister's room are found on either side of the main entrance. The wooden furniture and the large lanterns enhance the grandeur of the interior.

Side Entrance

Statues and Memorials

The interior of the Cathedral is filled with many statues, busts and memorial stones. The church, which was frequently visited by the Governors and Viceroys of the British Empire, is filled with the memorials of those who fought and died for the empire.

There is an impressive statue of Right Rev Daniel Corrie. He was the first Bishop of Madras. In the life-size statue, he is seen preaching to an Indian boy. The boy, with a tuft and a sacred thread, is found wearing a loincloth.

Daniel Corrie

A wonderful life-like statue of Jacobus Anderson is found on the right side wall as soon as we enter through the main entrance. He was a distinguished Physician General in Fort St. George. He died on 6th August 1809.

Jacobus Anderson

Along with the statue of Daniel Corrie, there is one other life-sized statue, which draws the attention of the visitors. It is the statue of James Stephen Lushington. He served in Bengal Civil Services. He was the son of Stephen Rumbold Lushington, the Governor of Madras. He died on 12th September 1832 at the early age of 28.

James Stephen Lushington

James Stephen Lushington

James Stephen Lushington

The bust of majestic looking Right Rev Frederick Gell is another attractive statue of the church. It is located near the entrance of the Lady Chapel. Gell was a former Bishop of Madras, who died in Coonoor in 1902 CE.

Frederick Gell

On the left side wall of the main entrance, a large relief panel is erected in memory of Rt. Rev. Thomas Dealtry, who served as the Bishop of Madras from 1849 to 1861 CE. He was the third Bishop. Dealtry had ordained 151 clergymen, which is considered an outstanding achievement. In this panel, he is accompanied by his son, Archdeacon Dealtry, F.G. Lugard and Dr. Robert Murphy. He is seen blessing two young priests.

Thomas Dealtry

A massive relief panel is dedicated to John Dent. He was a civil servant who died in 1845 in Calcutta. In the panel, he is found along with his attendant.

John Dent

The relief image of Sir Robert Henry is an attractive one. Considered as one of the Peninsular War heroes, he served briefly as the Chief Military Commander of Madras. In this relief panel, Henry is seen in full uniform with his leg stylishly rested on a pedestal.

Sir Robert Henry

Dr. John Mousley was the first Archdeacon in Madras (1815-19). There is a commemoration tablet sculpted by Flaxman. The tablet has the relief image of a female holding cross in her arm. Below the sculpture, there is a Latin inscription from the pen of the Bishop of Calcutta.

Dr. John Mousley

Reginald Heber was a poet who served as the Bishop of Calcutta. There is a large relief image of Heber, which was sculpted by Francis Chantrey. Probably the sculpture depicts Heber's last public appearance, where he had confirmed Indian Christians in Trichy.

Reginald Heber

Do we have anyone in Madras who does not know Parry's Corner? The well-known landmark of the city is named after EID Parry Company, which was started in 1787 CE by Thomas Parry, a Welsh merchant. The memorial tablet has the relief image of a native man mourning for the death of Parry.

Memorial Tablet of Thomas Parry

There is a tablet in which a native woman is mourning for Cameron's death, who served as the Magistrate of Madurai.

Memorial Tablet of Cameron

There is a relief image of a beautiful woman feeding a snake. This tablet was erected in memory of John Mack, an assistant surgeon. He served as the surgeon to the Governor's bodyguard and the physician to the durbar of Carnatic Nawab. He died in 1832.

Memorial Tablet of John Mack

Besides the statues and relief images, listed above, there are many brass and marble memorial tablets. Let me briefly highlight a few important tablets.

The very first tablet found as soon as we enter through the main entrance is of Lieut-Col John Temple. He was the President of the Board of Municipal Commissioners and Superintendent of Stamps. He accidentally drowned in the Adyar river and died at the age of 43 years, in 1866 CE.

John Temple - Tablet

Col John Impett fought bravely at Waterloo when he was merely fifteen years old. He also served as the Sheriff of Madras. He died in 1866 CE. His memorial tablet is found right next to that of John Temple.

John Impett - Tablet

The next tablet is for Henry Linton, a civil servant, who was holding the appointment of Under Secretary to Government, during his untimely death at the age of 28 years, in 1866 CE.

Henry Linton - Tablet

Charles Harison, Lt. Col, played a significant role in suppressing the Bengal Sepoy Rebellion. He died at the age of 49, in 1870 CE. His friends erected his memorial tablet. The letters are eroded and not clearly visible.

Charles Harison - Tablet

Captain Robert Coke Glover was killed in New Zealand on 29th April 1864. Lt. Frederick Guy Eaton Glover was assaulted badly while attempting to save his brother's life. He also died within two days, on 1st May. The marble tablet was erected by their friends.

Glover Brothers - Tablet

There is a tablet for Robert Caldwell. He was a well known Tamil scholar, whose contribution in history and archaeology was well recognized. He spent his last 14 years as Assistant Bishop of Madras.

Robert Caldwell - Tablet

There is a tablet for William Ambrose Morehead, who served as the Governor of Madras, twice.

William Ambrose Morehead - Tablet

Not many would have noticed this significant memorial tablet. It was dedicated to Robert William D'Escourt Ashe, the only British officer who was assassinated in South India. Vaanchinathan, a freedom fighter, murdered Ashe in Maniyachi railway station.

There is a brass tablet commemorating the formation of CSI in 1947. There are two marble tablets commemorating the 50th and 70th jubilees.

There are a few more tablets in memory of various people who served for the British empire. They are:

Frederick William Jebb, died in 1880
Reddy Branson, died in 1903; he served as the Trustee of the Cathedral
Dewan Bahadur N, Subramanyam, the founder of Kalyani Hospital, died in 1911
Herbert Francis Webb Gillman, died in 1918
Richard Howard Hitchcock, who served in the Indian Police Department, died in 1926
Thomas Arthur Taylor, died in 1893
Jane Theophila, died in 1860
John William Freese
William Montagu Douglas Home
William Taggart
Charles Faulkner Mac Cartie, killed in South Africa in 1899
Susanna Maria, died in 1843
Eliza Macleane, died in 1836
Mary, died in 1833
Lt. Col. Thomas Maclean, died in 1840
Lt. Col. James Drever, died in China in 1842
Lt. James Forsyth, died of cholera in 1842
Dr. Rajaiah Paul, died in 1975
Anne Antoinette Evelina, died in 1837
Emmie Ayling, died in 1932
Captain Christopher Biden, died in 1858
Captain Andrew Ffrench, killed in 1825 and five of his colleagues died of fever in 1824
Henry Valentine Conolly, died in 1855
Ferdinand De Mierre
Dr. D. Chellappa, first Indian Bishop in Chennai
Ralph Horsley, who was cut off by an unknown assassin in 1856
Thomas Moore Lane, Surgeon and Oculist to the East India Company
Esslie Newbign
Sir John David Norton
Clarence Harry
Emma Christian
Amelia
Lt. Col. John Johnston and his colleagues
Charles Harwood Higginson
Adolphine Eliza Macleod
Major Francis Wingrave Pinkney
Captain Samuel Best
William Griffith Esquire
Cap. Ralph W.H. Leycester
Lieutenant Henry Brassington Stone
John Hart Jollie

Still, there are more memorial tablets that are not listed here.

On the main altar in the center, Jesus Christ sculpted in alabaster is found. Jesus is in the standing posture and he holds a sickle in his left arm. Two angels are found on either side near his feet. This sculpture probably depicts the scene of Jesus Christ coming back.

The black-colored small statue of St. George with a shield in his arm and the slain dragon coiled at his feet, stands above the sculpture of Jesus.

On either side of the altar, two stained glass panels, depicting the Baptism of Jesus by John and depicting the resurrected Jesus with Mary Magdalene, in vibrant colors, are found.

The brass cross is placed in front of the sculpture of Jesus.

Jesus, St. George and Cross

The Cathedral has one of the oldest pipe organs in the city. It is more than 200 years old and was made by Hill and Company.

Pipe Organ

Lectern

The beautiful lectern, marble baptismal font and various wooden materials in the Cathedral are all almost as old as the building.

Altar with stained glass panels

The Cemetery

The adjoining cemetery is one of the well maintained and historic cemeteries of the city. Located on the southeast direction of the church, this was built in 1815 CE. Sadly, Elizabeth, the wife of Havilland, the builder of the Church, was the first one to be buried in this cemetery. (I could not locate her tombstone.)

The garden, where the cemetery is located, was much bigger in those days. It extended from the current US consulate to the other end of the road. Now, although it is comparatively small, the garden and the cemetery are well maintained. The atmosphere over here literally takes us to yesteryears and it is hard to believe that we are standing between two congested and busy city roads.

The marble and granite tombstones stand here surrounded by thick trees and plants. Many of the tombstones belong to the 18th or 19th century CE. Some of them have the figurines of sad-looking angels and most of them have epitaphs inscribed.

There is a Gateway with a massive bell. It was constructed in 1832 CE. The bell is not visible from outside. As per the records, the bell is 3'7" in diameter and 4'5" in height. Two names, A. Bowe & G. A. Schwenke and Lt. Col. F.C. Cotton, along with the date, March 8, 1858, are etched on the bell. It is presumed that the former was the manufacturer and the latter was the donor of the bell. It is said that the tone of the bell was so deep in the olden days that the entire neighborhood could clearly hear its sound. The tolling of the bell was discontinued in the early 1960's.

Happy travelling.