Lepakshi: The Sacred Hill of Legends, Stone, and Devotion

Just about 120 km from Bengaluru and located inside the Anantapur district of Andhra Pradesh lies a town that whispers stories through its rocks, murals, and sacred winds: Lepakshi. A place where legends of sages and kings, stone-carved wonders, and centuries of spiritual heritage converge.

This sleepy town is home to the magnificent Veerabhadra Temple, a Vijayanagara-period marvel famed for its intricate sculptures, hanging pillar, ceiling paintings, and the iconic monolithic Nandi, one of the largest of its kind in India. Yet, Lepakshi is more than just its temple. It’s a palimpsest of myths, dynasties, and sacred geography, waiting to be explored one step at a time.

Lepakshi Nagalinga Swami

What’s in a Name?

The earliest known reference to Lepakshi is found in the Skanda Purana, where it is mentioned as Lepakshya-Papanasanah, one among the 108 sacred Shaiva sthalas (pilgrimage sites) of South India. Inscriptions call it by various names - Lepaksha, Lepakshi, or Lepakshipura.

The origin of the name is debated. Some scholars suggest it may derive from lepa (embalming) and akshi (eye), possibly referencing a legend or event associated with the eye. A more locally popular but unlikely theory connects the name to a painted figure inside the Veerabhadra temple. But inscriptions predating the temple mention this name, such as one referring to Lepakshi Nandi-Lakkisetti, father of the temple’s famed patron Virupanna, confirming that the town’s name predates the temple's construction.

Ancient Roots

Lepakshi may have once been part of the Mauryan realm, before passing through the hands of the Satavahanas, Chutus, Gangas, Chalukyas of Badami, and the Nolambas, who held sway until the 10th century CE.

It then transitioned into the hands of the Chalukyas of Kalyani and Hoysalas, until the early 1300s.

The Vijayanagara Chapter

Lepakshi’s true transformation came with the rise of the Vijayanagara Empire. In 1346 CE, Harihara I, one of the founders of the empire, built a fort at nearby Penukonda and made it a second capital. Lepakshi’s spiritual significance and architectural grandeur began to flourish under this new rule.

The Veerabhadra Temple, now synonymous with Lepakshi, began taking shape during this time. Although inscriptions don’t pinpoint an exact founding year, the earliest known one here dates to 1493 CE. Most of the temple’s grandeur, however, unfolded during the reign of Achyutaraya (1529–1542 CE), especially under the patronage of Virupanna, a trusted official in his court.

Legend has it that Virupanna initiated massive extensions to the temple using royal funds. When the king learned of this, he allegedly ordered Virupanna’s eyes to be gouged out as punishment. Rather than fleeing or appealing, Virupanna is said to have obeyed on the spot, blinding himself and throwing his eyes against the temple wall,  a dramatic tale that local guides still narrate today.

What Lies Ahead in This Series?

The Veerabhadra Temple is a complex canvas, with its Natya Mandapa, Kalyana Mandapa, Nagalinga, murals, sculptures, inscriptions, and architectural quirks that deserve to be explored section by section. This article marks the beginning of a detailed series where I will walk you through every facet of this timeless shrine, from the sacred Nandi outside the temple precincts to the intricate ceiling paintings within.

Lepakshi is not just a monument; it’s an experience. And like all experiences, it reveals itself best when approached slowly, layer by layer.

So stay tuned as we begin our journey through the many wonders of Lepakshi.

Happy traveling.