Penukonda Fort and the Nandi Stepwell – Echoes of a Lost Capital

After the majestic city of Hampi fell into ruins following the Battle of Talikota in 1565 CE, the Vijayanagara Empire needed a new administrative seat. It was then that Penukonda, nestled amidst the arid hills of present-day Andhra Pradesh, rose to prominence as the second capital of the empire under Sri Krishnadevaraya.

But Penukonda was not just a seat of administration. It was a formidable citadel, a stronghold that stood its ground long after Hampi’s temples fell silent. The fort here was known for its solid defence architecture; walls that whispered stories of loyalty, resistance, and eventual surrender.

A Capital That Changed Hands

Following the decline of the Vijayanagara Empire, Penukonda didn’t fade into oblivion. Instead, it became a coveted strategic prize. It was first captured by the Sultan of Golconda, then taken over briefly by the Mysore kingdom, and eventually, after the fall of Tipu Sultan, came under the control of the British.

Even with the passage of centuries, much of Penukonda’s layered history remains visible; and one such remarkable remnant is a stepwell guarded by a bull.

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The Nandi Stepwell – A Hidden Gem of Penukonda

On one side of a narrow village road, a curious structure caught my attention. What looked like a mound from afar revealed itself to be an ancient stepwell, its entrance sculpted in the unmistakable form of Nandi, the sacred bull and vahana of Lord Shiva.

This is not a common sight. While stepwells are found across India — especially in Gujarat and Rajasthan, a stepwell entered through a full-sized Basavanna (Nandi) icon is exceptionally rare.

To access the well, one must pass under the belly of the bull — almost as if seeking permission from the guardian of sacred waters.

Constructed with stone, brick, and lime mortar, the bull sits regally with a pronounced hump, a curved tail, and well-modeled limbs. Near one of the bull’s legs lies a slab with an inscription, possibly in Kannada or Telugu - yet to be fully deciphered.

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Architecture and Symbolism

The well, believed to date back to the 14th century CE, carries the unmistakable signature of Vijayanagara-era engineering. Structured in multiple levels with intact steps descending into what would have once been a deep water source, the well showcases the aesthetic and practical genius of its makers. The walls of stepwell has various bas-relief images like Gaja Lakshmi, Nandi, Nataraja, Ganesha and others.

A pillared hall adjacent to the well, likely used for rituals or shelter, also displays classic Vijayanagara style with lotus motifs and rounded shafts.

While the well was dry at the time of my visit, the entire structure remains in remarkably good condition, thanks to recent preservation efforts by the Archaeological Department.

What struck me was not just the craftsmanship, but the vision and planning that had gone into such structures. With no modern machinery, no digital mapping, and no cranes, our ancestors managed to create functional, symbolic, and visually harmonious architectural forms that continue to endure.

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A Place to Pause and Reflect

Standing by the Nandi Stepwell of Penukonda, one cannot help but marvel at the layered history buried in its soil — a once-proud capital, royal footprints now faded, yet still breathing through stone and silence.

For those tracing the afterlife of the Vijayanagara Empire, Penukonda is not just a detour — it is an essential stop. And if you ever visit, don’t miss this forgotten gem where water once met stone beneath the gaze of a guardian bull.

Happy travelling.