The Hidden Heritage of Mylapore

Among the renowned landmarks of Chennai, the Kapaleeswara Temple in Mylapore stands out not only for its religious significance but also for its historical and cultural heritage. Even if you haven't visited the temple, as a resident of Chennai, this iconic structure is undoubtedly familiar. On the west banks of the equally famous temple tank (popularly known as Mylapore Tank) lies a sculpture that predates the Kapaleeswara Temple by centuries. This is the ancient Pallava-era sculpture of Jyestha Devi.

According to Hindu Puranas, Jyestha Devi is the elder sister of Lakshmi, the deity of wealth worshipped in numerous temples. However, unlike Lakshmi, Jyestha Devi is not found in Vishnu temples and is often absent from even her sister's abodes. Barring a few temples in the Trichy-Tanjore region, typically, she is found outside Shiva temples or in neglected corners within the temple premises.

Ancient Tamil poet Tiru Valluvar stated that wealth is essential in this world—a statement that appears to extend to deities as well. Unfortunately, Jyestha Devi is often considered inauspicious and associated with misfortune. Historical accounts suggest that Thondaradi Podi Alwar, one of the twelve Alwars, opposed her worship and may have influenced her exclusion from temple rituals. However, this assertion remains unsupported by concrete evidence, and intriguingly, Thondaradi Podi Alwar's birth star was Jyestha.

Despite the marginalization, Jyestha Devi endures. Many Shiva temples in northern Tamil Nadu have relegated her icons to fields, temple peripheries, or obscure corners within temple complexes. However, her presence transforms these spaces into sanctuaries, as true temples are defined by the deities they house rather than their architectural grandeur.

The sculpture of Jyestha in Mylapore was first documented by the renowned archaeologist T.A. Gopinatha Rao in the early 1910s.  However, from the early 2000s, this sculpture was discovered buried up to its neck on the western banks of the Mylapore tank. It lay neglected for years.

In 2016, a Mylapore-based heritage enthusiast named V.K. Srinivasan brought attention to the sculpture by posting its photograph on social media. The Mylapore Times newspaper further publicized this discovery, prompting authorities to excavate the sculpture fully. Today, it sits under a tree, where it receives regular visits from devotees.

The Jyestha sculpture dates back to the 8th or 9th century, crafted during the later Pallava period. Jyestha Devi is depicted seated on a throne with two arms. Her right arm is raised in abhaya mudra, symbolizing protection, while her left arm rests on her thigh. She is characterized by her thick thighs, flabby belly, and large breasts, wearing a tall conical crown on her head. Symbols of her authority, a broomstick and a flagstaff with a crow on its top, are seen on either side of her.

To her left is her daughter Manthi (also known as Sukanya or Agnimata), depicted seated with a conical crown, holding a flower in her right arm, and resting her left arm on her hip. On her right is her son Manthan (also called Komukan or Kulikan), the bull-headed deity, holding a cord in his right arm. Additionally, a small figure of a female attendant carrying a pot on her head is located near Jyestha's right foot.

You can throw her out of the temple. But she can turn her new place into a temple. A temple is not the one which has structure, but the deity. She may not need a temple structure. The open air and the green fields are more beautiful than your architecture. She has got enough love from the innocent villagers and heritage enthusiasts. She will live long as the deity forever.

Happy travelling.