Kovur Sundareswara Temple

Have you been to Rajarajeswaramudaiyar temple? Before you reply to me and talk about Thanjavur Big Temple, let me clarify. I am asking about a temple in Chennai.

Sundareswara temple is stunningly beautiful, right? In case if you think about the Madurai Sundareswara temple and agree with me, let me cut you short. I am referring to the Sundareswara temple in Chennai.

Pancharatna Kritis - Before jumping in excitement and claiming that you are a fan of Shri Tyagaraja's Pancharatnas on Rama, let me inform you. I am talking about Pancharatna kritis, composed on a deity of Chennai.

I know you wonder which temple am discussing about. Join me! I will take you to the beautiful temple of Sundareswara in a calm and serene locality called Kovur in Chennai.

(P.S. I have covered this temple about ten years ago in my blog. I have curated a heritage walk to this site in the past. I write this article again based on some additional information I collected when I revisited the site.)

Introduction

Kovur is situated at a distance of about 4 km from Kundrathur, the western suburb of Chennai. Google Map location (coordinates) is provided at the end of the article.

A magnificent temple of Lord Shiva (called Sundareswara) is located at the center of the village. Everything about this Chola-era temple is beautiful. The presiding deity is named Sundareswara, and his consort is called Soundarambikai. The words "Sundara" and "Soundarya" mean beauty. The road leading to the temple entrance has rows of beautifully maintained Ashoka trees on either side, making the location beautiful. 

Legend

Kamakshi was born on Earth due to a curse, and she aimed to reach Shiva again by performing severe penance standing on Panchagni (five fires) in Kanchipuram. However, the heat emanated was unbearable for the people of the surrounding localities, and only Shiva could protect them. Unfortunately, Shiva was in deep meditation. As directed by Vishnu, Lakshmi, his consort, took the form of a cow and prayed to the Shiva Linga in the village. Pleased by her prayers, Shiva broke his meditation, cooling down the Earth and saving the people.

The place was known as Gopuri, meaning the site of cow, because Lakshmi took the form of a cow. In time, the name became corrupted to Kovur.

Indra's white elephant, Iravata, was born as a wild elephant due to a curse. It came to this site, made the holy tank, took a dip on the same and worshiped Sundareswara. It regained its original form.

It is believed that Sekkizhar, the 12th-century poet from the neighboring Kundrathur, began authoring his magnum opus "Peirya Puranam" from this temple.

Shri Tyagaraja, an 18th-century Carnatic music composer and one of the Trinities of Carnatic music, composed Kovur Pancharatna praising Sundareswara. The legend goes that Tyagaraja traveled to Tirupati via Kovur on a palanquin without visiting this temple. Along the way, bandits tried to rob him, but Rama and Lakshmana appeared and drove them away. After realizing the significance of the holy village, Tyagaraja visited the temple and composed five kirtanas (songs) praising Sundareswara, called "Kovur Pancharatna," meaning "five gems of Kovur."

It is also stated that Kovur Dubashi Sundara Mudaliar donated one thousand gold coins to Tyagaraja. Aiming to rob this money, the bandits apparently tried attacking Tyagaraja. 

Another version states that Sundara Mudaliar wanted Tyagaraja to compose hymns on him, for which the latter refused. After realizing the significance of the holy site, Tyagaraja came back and sang songs praising Lord Sundareswara. Sundara Mudaliar apparently mistook that the songs were composed for him.

History

As stated, the 18th-century divine composer Shri Tyagaraja composed "Kovur Pancharatna". He had composed thousands of kirtana on his favorite deity, Rama. Only occasionally, he praised other Gods like Shiva and Shakti. Kovur is one such unique site.

The Kovur Pancharatna Kritis, are "Ee Vasudha" in Sahana, "Kori Sevimparare" in Kharaharapriya, "Shambo Mahadeva" in Pantuvarali, "Nammi Vachina" in Kalyani and "Sundareswaruni" in Sankarabharanam. "Shambo Mahadeva" is in Sanskrit. All other songs are in Telugu.

There is a possibility that Rajaraja Chola I built this temple in the 10th century. Out of two stone inscriptions on the site, his inscription is the oldest. None of the icons appear to be this older, though. Possibly the temple was rebuilt during the later Chola period. 

Inscription # 1

Reference - A.R. No. 330 of 1939-40 

Location - Loose pillar lying on the prakara

Period - 994 CE

King - Rajaraja Chola I

Language - Tamil

The damaged inscription records an endowment of land for the daily worship of a deity in this temple.   

Inscription # 2

Reference - A.R. No. 329 of 1939-40 

Location - The south wall of the sanctum

Period - 1253 CE

King - Vijayaganda Gopala deva (Telugu Chola)

Language - Tamil

The inscription records an agreement to burn a twilight lamp in the temple. The deity is referred to as Rajarajeswaramudaiya Nayanar. It gives other interesting information. Karikala Chola had moved 70 families who were the descendants of Elelasingar of Tirumayilai to Kanchipuram. 

Highlights

Navagraha temples or sthalams are nine temples around Kumbakonam, each dedicated to one of the nine planetary deities (Nava grahas). Similar to those temples, nine sites around Chennai are considered Navagraha sthalams of Tondai Mandalam. This temple is regarded as Budha sthalam (Mercury planetary deity). 

The holy tree (sthala vruksham) of the shrine is Maha Vilvam. It is believed that this tree has medicinal properties. It is said that each stalk of this tree always has 27 leaves, which is rare. 

Layout, Architecture and Iconography

The main entrance of the temple faces south direction. The seven-tiered Rajagopuram has many interesting stucco images. Most are related to the local legend about Tyagaraja's Kovur visit.

The sanctum is east facing. The base, as well as the superstructure, is in an apsidal (Gajaprshtha) shape. It enshrines a 5+ feet tall and broad Shiva Linga. He is called Sundareswara or Tirumaeneeswara. The metal icon of Goddess Piriyavidai is enshrined along with him.

On the wall of Ardha mandapa, the bas-relief images of Ganesha and an elephant worshiping Shiva Linga are worth observing.

Soundarambikai, or Tiruvudai Nayaki, the presiding Goddess, is found in a south-facing shrine.

The later period carvings are found on the pillars in Maha mandapa. The ceiling has a few relief images such as Swastik-lotus design, Vyagrapada and Patanjali Rishis worshiping Shiva, the flying Gandharvas, a mythical animal driving away an elephant, a tortoise and others.

Surya and Sekkizhar (instead of Chandra) face the main deity diagonally. (Sekkizhar's connection to the temple should be remembered here.)

The stone images of Nalvar (four main devotees), Somaskanda, Chandikeshwara, Murugan-Valli-Devasena, Bhairava and Chandikeshwara are found in separate shrines.

Ponniyamman, Karumari Amman, Bhikshatana, 63 Nayanmars, Karunakara Perumal with his two consorts, Ganesha, Nataraja-Sivakami, Chandrasekhara, Chandikeswara and a few other metal icons are found in various sub-shrines.

The big stone images of Veerabhadra and Kalikambal in the inner prakara are unique.

Ganesha, Dakshinamurti, Lingodbhava, Brahma and Durga are the Koshta Devas. 

Indrani, Maheswari, Lakshmi, Brahmi and Durga are the Koshta Devis of the Goddess.

On the outer prakara, the shrines of Ganesha and Subramanya with consorts are seen.

Shaneeswara, Bhairava and Navagrahas are the other deities found in the temple.

Except for Shiva Linga, all other icons are newly made. 

The holy tank is known as Shiva Ganga Teertha.

Happy travelling.