Manimangalam Rajagopala Swami Temple

Pulakeshin II was the most illustrious Emperor of the Chalukya Dynasty. Considered the most powerful ruler during his times, he had defeated even two other powerful emperors, Harshavardhana and Mahendravarma Pallava. However, there was an end to his uninterrupted victories. Narasimhavarma Pallava I, a rare Indian ruler who had never experienced a defeat, routed him repeatedly. The Copper Plates of Kuram record the triumph of Narasimha over the Chalukyan army in three places. Manimangalam, a suburb of the current Chennai city, is one of those sites.

This historic battlefield, a quiet village until a few decades ago and a busy developing locality nowadays, is dotted with many temples. Among them, there were three Chola-era Vishnu shrines. One temple was lost without any trace. The second temple is dying fast. The third temple is comparatively famous but hardly has any visitors. This article is about that the third one - Rajagopala Swami Temple

With the walls studded with innumerable inscriptions, the temple is the delight of heritage enthusiasts. The shrine has so many unbelievable unique features. More than anything, the sculpture of the presiding deity is stunning. If I have to list down the Vishnu temples of the region, this would be the highest on my list. How come people in and around Chennai miss this mesmerizing temple? It is laughable to find someone in the neighborhood who has not yet visited it.

(Note: I have been visiting the temple since 2014. I have curated a heritage trip to this site. I have written about this temple in my blog and book. However, I did not feel accomplished. I thought I should write a notably long article that covers all aspects entirely. Hence, I spent a considerable amount of time collecting details to write this article. I believe this article would be helpful, at least to some extent, to those who are interested in history, heritage and religion. If this article kindles people's interest in regularly visiting this temple, I would be happy.)





Introduction

Manimangalam is situated at a distance of  10 km west of Tambaram, the southern suburb of Chennai. Google Map location (coordinates) is provided at the end of the article.

A magnificent temple of Lord Vishnu (called Rajagopala Swami) is located right on the banks of Manimangalam lake, towards the western end of the town. The ancient temple, built during the Chola period, has architectural contributions from the Vijayanagara Kings. 



Highlights


It is a temple full of highlights. In this section, let me briefly touch upon them, as detailed descriptions would follow in the subsequent sections.

Rajagopala Swami, the presiding deity, holds the conch in his right arm and discus in his left arm. It is quite the opposite of other typical Vishnu murtis.


The temple has some of the features that are typically found in Shiva temples. There are five Koshta murtis (niche images) on the outer walls of the main shrine. They include Ganesha and Vishnu Durga. Dakshinamurti's image is found on a torana above a niche. Miniature figures of Shiva Ganas adorn the cornice above the entrance of the Ardha mandapa.


Bhuta Ganas



History

The earliest reference about the village is from Kuram Copper Plates in the 7th century CE.  However, the oldest inscription of the temple is after around 350 years, from Rajaraja Chola I. The latest inscription belongs to Vijayanagara King Devaraya II in the mid of the 15th century CE.  

A total of 19 inscriptions are found in the temple complex. 16 inscriptions are from various Chola Kings. The number of inscriptions from each King is listed below.

Rajaraja Chola I - 1 inscription
Rajadhiraja Chola - 1 inscription
Rajendra Chola II - 1 inscription
Virarajendra Chola - 1 inscription
Kulottunga Chola I - 2 inscriptions
Vikrama Chola - 1 inscription
Kulottunga Chola II - 1 inscription
Rajaraja Chola II - 1 inscription
Kulottunga Chola III - 3 inscriptions
Rajaraja Chola III - 4 inscriptions
Jatavarma Sundara Pandya I - 1 inscription
Devaraya II - 1 inscription
Unknown - 1 inscription

Vimana of the Main Shrine




None of the inscriptions talks about the temple construction. They all record various gifts granted for temple administration. However, based on the available inscriptions, we could assume that the temple was constructed by Rajaraja Chola I or a former Chola King such as Parantaga Chola II. Besides the original structure by the Cholas, Vijayanagaras have reconstructed/repaired many portions and built a few new shrines.


Right from the Pallava's period, the village has been named Manimangalam. However, the village also had several other names during the reign of various kings. 


In the 10th century CE, during the period of Rajaraja Chola I, Manimangalam was also referred to as Ratnagrahara, Ratnagrama and Lokamahadevi Chaturvedi Mangalam.
In the 11th century CE, right from Rajadhiraja Chola's time, the village was also called Rajasulamani Chaturvedi Mangalam.


In the 12th century CE, Kulottunga Chola I started calling the village Pandiyanai Irumadi Venkonda Chola Chaturvedi Mangalam. This name was used till the time of Rajaraja Chola III (13th century CE). Later, the King started mentioning the place as Gramasikhamani Chaturvedi Mangalam.


Chaturvedi Mangalam is the commonly found supplementary name across various times. It indicates that the village was gifted to the priest community, well-versed in four Vedas.

None of the inscriptions call the deity as Rajagopala Swami. In the 10th century CE, he was called Srimad Dvarapuri Deva or Srimad Dvara. The inscription from Rajadhiraja Chola (11th century CE) mentions him as Sri Kamakkoti Vinnagar Alvar. It remains the name of the deity for many years.


Kulottunga Chola II (12th century CE) started calling the deity as Vanduvarapati Emberuman. Kulottunga Chola III used an additional name, Tiruvaykkulattu Emberuman, in just one inscription. As otherwise, Vanduvarapati Emberuman remained the name of God for several years. At last, Rajaraja Chola III calls him Mannanar.


A brief description along with critical information about all the inscriptions can be seen below. Please note that they are listed down in chronological order.


Mukha Mandapa wall with inscriptions



Inscription # 1

Reference - A.R. No. 7 of 1892 and South Indian Inscriptions Vol III No. 27
Location - South wall of the sanctum (Garbha Griha)
Period - 991/92 CE
King - Rajaraja Chola I
Language - Sanskrit and Tamil

The inscription is dated in the 6th year of the reign of the Chola King Rajakesarivarman. (I believe it refers to Rajaraja Chola I. If any readers think I am not correct, they can feel free to correct me by providing proof.)

It opens with two Sanskrit verses and the remaining part is in Tamil. It records the grant of 4,000 kuli of land to the temple by a person. He had purchased that land from the inhabitants of the village.

Interestingly, it appears that Manimangalam lake was called Periyaputteri in those days. We could also identify some of the current-era localities mentioned in this inscription, such as Kalichchangal channel (Karasangal), Amanpakkam (Ammanambakkam) and Kulattur (Kolathur).

From this inscription, we understand that Manimangalam was also known as Ratnagrahara, Ratnagrama and Lokamahadevi Chaturvedi Mangalam, and it was a part of Sengattu Kottam (district). The deity was referred to as Srimad Dvarapuri Deva or Srimad Dvara




Inscription # 2

Reference - A.R. No. 6 of 1892 and South Indian Inscriptions Vol III No. 28
Location - North and West walls of the sanctum (Garbha Griha)
Period - 3rd December 1046 CE
King - Rajadhiraja Chola
Language - Tamil

It is a crucial inscription that gives all the details of Rajadhiraja's military achievements. It lists down all the countries he won over and the kings whom he defeated. It should be noted that the inscription records that the King seized the sister and daughter of Sinhala King Vira Salamegan and cut off the nose of the latter's mother.


From this inscription, we understand that Manimangalam was also known as Rajasulamani Chaturvedi Mangalam, and it was a part of Maganur nadu (sub-division) of Sengattu Kottam (district) in Jayankonda Cholamandalam. 

Interestingly, the temple was mentioned as Srimad Dvarapati and the deity was referred to as Sri Kamakkoti Vinnagar Alvar

Further, the inscription records that the villagers received 100 kasu from the temple treasury and handed over 2,200 kuli of land to the temple.


Inscription # 3

Reference - A.R. No. 3 of 1892 and South Indian Inscriptions Vol III No. 29
Location - East Outer Wall of the inner prakara
Period - 1054/55 CE
King - Rajendra Chola II
Language - Tamil

It is a vital inscription that describes Rajendra Chola's victory over the Chalukyan King Ahamavalla (Somesvara I) in the Koppam battle. It also records his victory in Ceylon.


Further, the inscription records that the villagers received money from Kamakkavvaiyal, the mother of Senapati Jayankonda Chola Brahmadhiraja, and granted a piece of land at Amanpakkam (the modern Ammanambakkam, a hamlet near Chenglepet). 

The alternate name of the village, the details of Geographical divisions, name of the deity and the temple are all recorded exactly similar to the Inscription #2, as seen above.

Sanctum outer wall with inscriptions



Inscription # 4

Reference - A.R. No. 2 of 1892 and South Indian Inscriptions Vol III No. 30
Location - North Wall of the Mukha mandapa
Period - 1067/68 CE
King - Virarajendra Chola 
Language - Tamil

The lengthy inscription starts with the historic passage of the King's victories over Chalukyas, Pandyas and Keralas. This inscription is one of the reliable source materials to learn the history of Virarajendra Chola


The alternate name of the village, the details of Geographical divisions, name of the deity and the temple are all recorded exactly similar to the Inscriptions #2 and #3, as seen above.

Further, the inscription records that 4,450 kuli of land near the village were granted to the temple by Senapati Jayankonda Chola Brahmadhiraja. His father had purchased the land from the villagers.


Inscription # 5

Reference - A.R. No. 4 of 1892 and South Indian Inscriptions Vol III No. 32
Location - South Wall of the Mukha mandapa
Period - 1117/18 CE
King - Kulottunga Chola I
Language - Tamil

The damaged inscription records the purchase of some land near the village, with the condition that the produce should be assigned to the temple for providing offerings.

Inscription # 6

Reference - A.R. No. 23 of 1896 and South Indian Inscriptions Vol III No. 31
Location - West Wall of the Mukha mandapa
Period - 25th January 1118 CE
King - Kulottunga Chola I
Language - Tamil

The inscription records the grant of 1,050 of land to the temple.

The first few lines are to glorify the King. Interestingly, it calls Pandyas as Meenavars and Cheras as Villavars.

The village was also known as Pandiyanai Irumadi Venkonda Chola Chaturvedimangalam and it was a part of Kundrathur nadu (sub-division) of Kulottunga Chola Valanadu (district). 

Inscription # 7

Reference - A.R. No. 24 of 1896 and South Indian Inscriptions Vol III No. 33
Location - West Wall of the Mukha mandapa
Period - 1121/22 CE
King - Vikrama Chola 
Language - Tamil

The inscription records the grant of of land to the temple. The land was located in Pulvayppappan Kulattur, evidently the modern-day Kulathur, a nearby hamlet.


It states Manimangalam was also known as Pandiyanai Irumadi Venkonda Chola Chaturvedimangalam and it was a part of Kundrathur nadu (sub-division) of Jayankonda Chola Mandalam (district). 


Garuda's shrine




Inscription # 8

Reference - A.R. No. 25 of 1896 and South Indian Inscriptions Vol III No. 34
Location - West Wall of the Mukha mandapa
Period - 1140/41 CE
King - Kulottunga Chola II
Language - Tamil

The inscription records the grant of of two pieces of land to the temple by the villagers.

It states Manimangalam was also known as Pandiyanai Irumadi Venkonda Chola Chaturvedimangalam and it was a part of Kundrathur nadu (sub-division) of Jayankonda Chola Mandalam (district) alias Kulottunga Chola Valanada. The deity is referred to as Vanduvarapati Emberuman.

Inscription # 9

Reference - A.R. No. 29 of 1896 and South Indian Inscriptions Vol III No. 35
Location - East Outer Wall of the inner prakara
Period - 1153/54 CE
King - Rajaraja Chola II
Language - Tamil

The inscription records the purchase of some land near the village and assignment of same to the temple, with the condition that its produce should be applied for providing offerings of boiled rice to the deity.

It calls Pandyas as Minavars and Cheras as Villavars. It records the queen's name as Mukkokkilanadiga. 


It states Manimangalam was also known as Pandiyanai Irumadi Venkonda Chola Chaturvedimangalam and it was a part of Kundrathur nadu (sub-division) of Jayankonda Chola Mandalam (district) alias Kulottunga Chola Valanadu. 


Inscription # 10

Reference - A.R. No. 5 of 1892 and South Indian Inscriptions Vol III No. 36
Location - South Wall of the Mukha mandapa
Period - 4th December 1189 CE
King - Kulottunga Chola III
Language - Tamil

The inscription records that a military officer purchased 600 kuli of land near the village and assigned it to the temple, with the condition that the produce should be applied for providing offerings of boiled rice to the deity.

From this inscription, we understand that Manimangalam was also known as Pandiyanai Irumadi Venkonda Chola Chaturvedimangalam and it was a part of Kundrathur nadu (sub-division) of Kulottunga Chola Valanadu (district) in Jayankonda Cholamandalam. 


The deity was referred to as Vanduvarapati Emberuman and Tiruvaykkulattu Emberuman


Inscription # 11

Reference - A.R. No. 276 of 1897
Location - North Wall of the Main Shrine
Period - 1197/98 CE
King - Kulottunga Chola III
Language - Tamil


Inscription # 12

Reference - A.R. No. 21 of 1896 and South Indian Inscriptions Vol III No. 37
Location - East Wall of the Mukha mandapa
Period - 1207/08 CE
King - Kulottunga Chola III
Language - Tamil

The inscription records the grant made to supply fuel for lightening four lamps regularly at the sanctum.


The deity is mentioned as Vanduvarapati and it states that Manimangalam was part of Kunrathur nadu in Jayankonda Cholamandalam. 


Chenkamalavalli Shrine



Inscription # 13

Reference - A.R. No. 28 of 1896 
Location - East Outer Wall of the inner prakara
Period - 1225/26 CE
King - Rajaraja Chola III
Language - Tamil

It is an incomplete inscription.



Inscription # 14

Reference - A.R. No. 27 of 1896 and South Indian Inscriptions Vol III No. 38
Location - East Outer Wall of the inner prakara
Period - 1228/29 CE
King - Rajaraja Chola III
Language - Tamil

The inscription records the grant of money for two lamps.


From this inscription, we understand that Manimangalam was also known as Pandiyanai Irumadi Venkonda Chola Chaturvedimangalam and was a part of Kundrathur nadu (sub-division) of Kulottunga Chola Valanadu (district), in Jayankonda Cholamandalam. 
The deity was referred to as Vanduvarapati Emberuman.



Inscription # 15

Reference - A.R. No. 20 of 1896 and South Indian Inscriptions Vol III No. 39
Location - East Wall of the Mukha mandapa
Period - 1233/34 CE
King - Rajaraja Chola III
Language - Tamil

The inscription records that a flight of stone steps leading to mandapa was built at the expense of two brothers from Manimangalam.

The deity was referred to as Vanduvarapati Emberuman.

From this inscription, we understand that Manimangalam was also known as Gramasikhamani Chaturvedi Mangalam. It was a part of Kundrathur nadu (sub-division) Kulottunga Chola Valanadu (district) alias Puliyur Kottam, in Jayankonda Cholamandalam. 



Inscription # 16

Reference - A.R. No. 26 of 1896 and South Indian Inscriptions Vol III No. 40
Location - East Outer Wall of the inner prakara
Period - 1233/34 CE
King - Rajaraja Chola III
Language - Sanskrit and Tamil

The inscription consists of a single Sanskrit verse and another verse in Tamil. It records the gift of two lamps to the images of the presiding deity and Singaperumal (Narasimha). (There is just a tiny icon of Narasimha, and no other big sculpture is found in the current temple. Hence, it is unclear if there was a sub-shrine of Narasimha in this temple in those days or the inscription refers to this small image of Narasimha).

From this inscription, we understand that Manimangalam was also known as Gramasikhamani Chaturvedimangalam or Ratnagrahara and the deity was referred to as Mannanar.



Inscription # 17

Reference - A.R. No. 22 of 1896 
Location - South Wall of the Mukha mandapa
Period - 1265/66 CE
King - Jatavarma Sundara Pandya I
Language - Tamil

It is an incomplete inscription. The identity of the King is debatable. 

Inscription # 18

Reference - A.R. No. 274 of 1897 
Location - Mukha mandapa
Period - 1435 CE
King - Devaraya II, Vijayanagara King
Language - Tamil

It is a damaged record.

Inscription # 19

Reference - A.R. No. 275 of 1897 
Location - South Outer Wall of the Main Shrine
Period - Unknown
King - Unknown
Language - Tamil

Andal Shrine



Layout

Rajagopala Swami Temple spreads over 0.75 acres. The east-facing entrance has no tower (gopuram). 

The east-facing main shrine and the adjoining Mukha Mandapa are located at the center. There are two sub-shrines situated in the northwest and southwest corners. Outside the main temple, there is a four-pillared mandapa and a west-facing sub-shrine.




Entrance

The huge temple has just one gateway. The entrance is very simple and devoid of any sculpture. It does not even have a tower. The structure appears to be made by Vijayanagara Kings.

Temple Entrance



Rajagopala Swami

The temple's presiding deity, Rajagopala Swami, flanked by Sri Devi and Bhoo Devi, is enshrined in the east-facing Moolasthana (sanctum). This is one of the most beautiful sculptures of Vishnu found across the surroundings of Chennai. 

Rajagopala and his consorts are in the standing posture. He holds conch (sankha) in his upper right arm and discus (Sudarshana chakra) in his upper left arm. It is an unusual aspect, as his right arm usually holds discus. He has his lower right arm in Abhaya mudra (gesture of protection) and holds mace (gada) in his lower left arm. He is about 5-6 feet high and is standing atop Padma peetha (the lotus-shaped pedestal).

What is the reason for the change in the hands holding conch and discus? A few Kushan-era sculptures of Vishnu have discus in the left arm. Trivikrama in Tirukkovilur temple has conch in the right arm and discus in the left arm. Besides some of these rare depictions of Vishnu, it is said that Krishna, who decided not to lift any weapon during the Mahabharata War, held conch in his right arm. The deity was named Dvarapuri Deva in the olden days. It reminds us Dwaraka, the city of Krishna. His current name Rajagopala, meaning the King of cowherds, connects well with Krishna rather than Vishnu. Hence, there is a possibility that this image depicts Krishna instead of Vishnu.  

Mural Painting of Dwarapala


Main Shrine

The main shrine consists of Garbha griha (sanctum) and Ardha Mandapa. 

Besides the stone images of Rajagopala and his consorts, the utsava (processional) metal icons, such as Rajagopala-Sri Devi-Bhoo Devi, Chenkamalavalli, Andal and Krishna, are also located in Garbha griha. 

On the lintel of Garbha griha entrance, a bas-relief image of Crawling Krishna is seen. It is rare to find Krishna on the lintel.

Instead of stone sculptures of Dwara palas (door guardians), two mural paintings are found at the entrance of the sanctum. 

The lintel of the Ardha mandapa entrance has small images of Bhuta ganas. It is usual to find them in Shiva temples. But having these images in the Vishnu temple is unique.




Koshta Deities

Although Agamic rules allow Vishnu temples to have Koshta (niche) images around the sanctum, there are few such temples. Moreover, even those temples do not have Pancha Koshtams, that is, all five niche deities. It is one such rarest of rare temples to have five Koshta images. All these images are possibly from the Chola's period.

Ganesha is the first Koshta Deva. He faces south direction. Above the niche, a small relief image of Dakshinamurti is found. Although many vimanas of Vishnu shrines have Dakshinamurti, no other temple seems to have such a small image of Dakshinamurti inside a torana.

Ganesha




The second niche icon is a form of Vishnu called Satya. He faces south direction. He is a Chakra Prayoga Murti. He has his chakra (discus) in a twisted form, ready to get released. Above the niche, a tiny image of Nardana Krishna (Krishna in the dancing form) is found under a torana.

Satya and Nardana Krishna


Atchyuta, another form of Vishnu, is the west-facing Koshta Deva. He is also a Chakra Prayoga Murti. Above this niche, a small image of Yoga Narasimha is found. Even Narasimha holds chakra in Prayoga form.

Atchyuta


Narasimha


Ananta or Paramapata Nathar is the west-facing Koshta Deva. It is interesting to find he is too a Chakra Prayoga Murti. Kaliya Nardana Krishna is the tiny image on top of this niche. 

Ananta and Kaliya Nardana Krishna



Vishnu Durga, the fifth Koshta deity, faces west direction. She also has her chakra in twisted form, ready to get released (prayoga chakra). Yoga Vishnu is the small image found above this niche. Similar to the presiding deity, he has conch in his right arm and discus in his left arm.


Durga and Yoga Vishnu




Inner Prakara

A broad Maha mandapa with beautiful round pillars extends into the inner prakara (circumambulatory) around the main shrine. A Vijayanagara-era Hanuman sculpture facing south is situated in the prakara. A separate sub-shrine enshrines Ramanuja, Visvaksena, Nammalvar, Tirumangai Alwar, Manavala Mamunigal and Tirukkachi Nambigal. A sub-shrine in Ardha Mandapa has the respective metal icons of all these stone images.

Mukha Mandapa

A separate Mukha Mandapa is located in front of Maha Mandapa. There are steps on three sides to reach this hall. The walls of Mukha mandapa are studded with many inscriptions.

Mukha Mandapa



Garuda

Garuda, in a small shrine, faces the main shrine.

A tall Dwajastambha (flag staff), a big bali peetha (offering platform) and a dwajastambha (lamp post) are found one after the other.


Chenkamalavalli and Andal

The Goddess Chenkamalavalli's shrine is situated on the southeast side of the outer prakara. She is seated and has four arms. The sculpture is exquisite. 

The shrine consists of Garbha griha, Antarala, Ardha mandapa, Maha mandapa and a Oonjal mandapa.

Andal's shrine is located on the northeast side of the same prakara. It consists of Garbha griha, Ardha mandapa and Maha mandapa. The old mural paintings on the walls look good.

Both these shrines appear to be made by Vijayanagara Kings.

The fight between Vali and Sugreeva is depicted beautifully on a window in this prakara.

Chenkamalavalli Vimana



Hanuman

Outside the main temple complex, a four-pillared mandapa is found. Around 100 meters behind that Hanuman's shrine is located. Hanuman in Anjali mudra looks realistic. This five-feet high sculpture is one of the best Hanuman images I have seen in the city's surroundings.

Agama

The rules prescribed in Vaikanasa Agama are followed in this shrine.

Happy travelling.






Comments

  1. Nice temple , I have been to this temple. Very well written,keep up the good work.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Very well written KK. You writing and its history inspires me to visit this temple.

    ReplyDelete

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