Samanar Malai

Those who go to Madurai, the Temple City of India, get overwhelmed by visiting the grand Meenakshi Temple and generally do not explore further. Few people go beyond this gigantic temple and visit various sites of historical and heritage values. However, not even those few would have heard about this hidden treasure called Samanar Malai.

At a distance of around 10 km from Madurai Junction, in a small hamlet called Keezha Kuyilkudi, the hillock that stretches about 3 km of area is located. Due to 1000+ years old Jain sculptures on the hill, it is named Samanar Malai (in Tamil, it means the hillock of Jains).

A distance of 10 km is not a big deal. However, this village remains lesser known and is not easily accessible. Public transport is poor, and the mobile signal is weak; it may be impossible to book call taxi from this village. There are no other means of transportation available here. It is advisable to go in your own vehicle or book a cab for half a day from Madurai.

The next challenge would be climbing 150+ steps and then literally rock climbing with the support of handrails. It is not an easy trek, and it is advisable to visit the place in the early morning or evening. I heard from the local villagers that monkeys and sometimes even bears are found atop the hill. Hence, it is better to go as a group.

I classify this site into four parts: Ayyanar Temple, Chettippudavu, Pechippallam, and Madevipperupalli.

Ayyanar Temple

Ayyanar Temple is a medium-sized village temple located on the plains right below the hillock. A giant banyan tree and a picturesque lotus pond are near the temple.

The temple is not very old. Except for a few icons in the temple, everything else is new and might have been constructed in the last 40-50 years. The place probably had Ayyanar alone in a small temple originally. I am not sure.

If you are interested in the village deities and their iconography, you can visit this temple, as it has many village deities. The temple is not artistically beautiful; however, the aerial view of the temple, along with the adjoining pond, is picturesque.

The sanctum enshrines the presiding deity Ayyanar (Shasta). He is found in his typical seated posture and is flanked by his consorts, Poorna and Pushkala. These three are stone images. In Ardha Mandapa, the stone images of Ganesha and Kartikeya are found. Ayyanar's vahana (mount) elephant is found facing toward the shrine. A wooden lamp post is located behind the elephant.

A separate shrine for Malaiyadi Karuppanna Swami, a famous village God, is found. It's a blue-colored stucco image. Karuppana is located in the standing posture; he has a big mustache and also a hair bun on his head. He holds a sickle and mace in his arms. A bearded person is found at his feet. Hanuman with Anjali mudra is located near the deity.

Another shrine enshrines Virumappa Swami, Kasi Mayan, Karuppayi, and Kalvanathan. All these village Gods are stone images except for Karuppayi.

There is a shrine where the broken Tirthankara stone icons are kept. The icons appear to belong to the 9th century/10th century C.E. They are named Pandya Raja and Ugra Pandya. A stucco image of Chokkeswaran - a village God with a beard and mustache on his face, holding Trishul in his arms and a serpent on his head, is also located in the same shrine. An image called Bhairava is also found (not following the iconography of Bhairava).

A separate shrine enshrines many village deities such as Veerabhadra, Irulappan, Muniyandi, Sona, Muthukaruppanna, Pechi Amman and Irulayee Amman. All the male Gods except for Muniyandi are in the form of serpents. 

The temple's entrance has three big stucco images of Karuppanna Swami on horses. Below the horse, a few small stucco images, such as the Adi Pujari (the first priest), Krishna-Rukimini-Bhama, and the divine wedding of Meenakshi and Sundareswara, are found. Inside the temple, there is a similar stone image found.

Outside the temple, three small sub-shrines are located. They depict Peyandi Devar alias Pattavan Pottu Kalva Devar, his wife, and other companions. It is said that he fought against Malik Kafur when the latter invaded Madurai in the 14th century and sacrificed his life.

Chettippudavu

After climbing up about 150-200 steps and trekking on the rocks, we can reach Chettippudavu. It is located on the south side of the hill. An exceptionally beautiful five feet tall of Mahavira's bas-relief image is found here. The big ears of Mahavira probably made the locals believe that it was an image of a fat Chettiar (a business community); hence, the site is called Chettippudavu.

Mahavira is found in a seated and meditative posture. He is seated on a throne having three lion images in the base. Two standing lions are found instead of hand rest. Lions are depicted as Mahavira having a lion as his lanchana (vehicle; similar to vahana in Hinduism). Two chamara bearers are found on either side. Above the head of Mahavira, a triple parasol (tri chatra) is located, and above that, the Sala tree is partially visible. The chatra is flanked by two flying Vidyadharas holding flowers in their arms.

Photo courtesy - Mr. Veludharan

Nearby, there is a natural cave that has five small bas-relief images. Three of them represent Tirthankaras. Who are they? We cannot clearly identify due to erosion. One interesting image of a Goddess riding lion and fighting her enemy on an elephant is found. Who is this? Can this be a Yakshi or Sasana Devi? As per the Jain iconography, only four Yakshis ride the lion - Gauri, Vairoti alias Aparajita, Ambika, and Siddhayika. This image might depict one of them. But none of them seem to be fighting with a demon or Asura. Also, except for the lion, no other iconic features of those Devis match with this image. Then, does this depict Durga? How come we would have Durga in Jain cave? I am still trying to figure out a clear answer.

There is another female icon on the other end. A Yakshi is found seated and is flanked by two female attendants. I believe this must be one of these three Yakshis - Dharini alias Tara, Vairoti alias Aparajita, or Padmavati.

The sculptors' names are mentioned below these sculptures in Vatteluththu.

Pechippallam

Pechippallam is located above Chettippudavu, which can be reached through steep and slippery rocks. Near a natural spring, 8 beautiful bas-relief images are found. They depict:

1) Tirthankara in a seated posture, who is flanked by two attendants (Unable to identify the name)

2) Bahubali in the standing posture

3) Mahavira in a seated posture, who is flanked by two attendants

4) Parsvanatha under seven hooded serpent

5) Supasvanatha under five hooded serpent

6) Tirthankara in a seated posture, who is flanked by two attendants (Unable to identify the name)

7) Tirthankara in the standing posture, who is flanked by two female attendants (Unable to identify the name)

8) Tirthankara in the standing posture, under a five-hooded serpent; flanked by two attendants above, one person in Anjali Mudra near the foot and another female attendant (Unable to identify the name)

Photo courtesy - Mr. Veludharan

Photo courtesy - Mr. Veludharan

Photo courtesy - Mr. Veludharan

Madevipperuppalli

This place is located above Pechippallam. Here, the base of a dilapidated Jain temple is found. Based on the inscriptions, a Pandya King, Parantaka Veera Narayanan, donated the land for a Jain monastery in the late 9th century C.E. The temple or monastery was named after his wife, Vaanavan Madevi.

Photo courtesy - Mr. Veludharan

Happy travelling.

P.S. Thanks to Mr. Veludharan, who helped me with the photographs of Jain sculptures. He runs an excellent blog on Temples for the past ten years.

Visit my site, krishnakumartk.com, to know more about the travel guides and other books that I have written.