The Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew) - Bangkok

I find it easier to count the number of stars in the sky than the number of beautiful structures and shrines in the Grand Palace Complex in Bangkok. Now, I find even counting the number of those structures easier when I have to keep track of the infinite count of icons, statues and figurines found here. Come and join me in exploring Wat Phra Kaew, commonly known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha in English, Bangkok's most fascinating and famous site.

Thailand and Bangkok

Thailand officially called the Kingdom of Thailand, is a small South East Asian country near Myanmar and Cambodia. It was formerly known as Siam.

Though Thailand is officially a constitutional monarchy, whereby the prime minister is the head of government and a hereditary monarch is the head of state, it is actually under the control of a military junta.

Temple Complex

Thailand has been heavily influenced by the culture of India for several centuries. It is evident from the Indianised names of the kingdoms, cities and even the Kings. Ramayana, the epic from India, is very popular in Thailand.

Bangkok, known as Krung Thep Maha Nakhon in the Thai language, is Thailand's most populous and capital city. It is famous for its vibrant street life, ornate temples, massage parlors and shopping.

The Temple of the Emerald Buddha

Wat Phra Sri Rattana Satsadaram!

Well, I know it's challenging to remember or pronounce this. That's why we call this site the Temple of the Emerald Buddha in English or simply Wat Phra Kaew in Thai. This is Bangkok's most spectacular and famous temple and tourist site. Your visit to Bangkok is incomplete if you do not visit this temple.

Soldiers of Palace

The temple, or rather the temple complex with many shrines and structures, is inside the Grand Palace complex. The palace complex was established in 1782 CE. It covers an area of around 218,000 sq. meters and is surrounded by four long walls, a total of 1,900 meters in length.

Rama I served as an aristocrat and military leader initially. Later, he established the Rattanakosin kingdom and thus became the first monarch of the Chakri dynasty. He was the one who constructed the Grand Palace as well as the temple of the Emerald Buddha. He made Bangkok the capital city.

Entrance of Temple Complex

Rama I was born in Thongduang and was later known as Phra Phutthayotfa Chulalok. During different stages of his life, he was known by other names. Not only him but all the Kings of Thailand also have multiple names. It might be amusing for people outside Thailand to know that even their names are changed posthumously.

All the kings of the Chakri dynasty are referred to as Rama nowadays. The current King is Rama X.

The Sanctum of the Emerald Buddha

The sanctum, chapel or main shrine is called Moolasthan in Hindu temples. In Thailand Buddhist temples, the shrine where the presiding deity is found and where the ordinations occur is called Phra Ubosot.

Front side of Phra Ubosot

Phra Ubosot is the main attraction of the temple. It is the only original structure of the temple complex, built in 1782 CE by Rama I. This east-facing sanctum enshrines Thailand's gorgeous and most important icon, the Emerald Buddha. The small icon measures hardly 66 cm in height and 48.3 cm in width.

Corridor of Phra Ubosot

Buddha is found seated and meditating on a pedestal. The bright green-colored Buddha is so beautiful that the devotees forget to move their eyes away from him.

An interesting point is that the Emerald Buddha is not made of emerald but of solid green-colored jadeite.

Back Side of Phra Ubosot

The ceremony of costume change is celebrated thrice a year in a grand manner. Buddha wears three different costumes for three seasons. All of them are made of glittering gold and jewels. The first two costumes used during the summer and rainy seasons were made during the period of Rama I. The last one for winter was constructed by King Rama III.

Ceiling

The architecture of the sanctum follows the style of the Ayudhaya period. The outside walls are decorated with gilt and colored glass mosaics. The eaves are lined with tiny bronze bells. They make the sound even for the slightest breeze, which is melodious.

The pedestals are adorned with 112 motif images of Garud holding serpents on their beaks. (It should be noted that Vishnu's divine bird, Garuda, the vaahana (vehicle), is very popular in Thailand. You can find Garuda's images in most temples and even on the lintel of many buildings.) The doors and windows glitter and look very attractive.

Dwarapala image in Phra Ubosot

The inner walls of the sanctum are full of mural paintings. They were painted during the period of Rama I. Importantly, they were never repainted after that. Even now, they look so refreshing. The wall behind the Emerald Buddha depicts the Buddhist cosmology and the enlightenment of Buddha.

The other two side walls depict many scenes from the life of Buddha and his previous births. They were done during the period of Rama III (first half of the 19th century).

Phra Ubosot

Phra Ubosot

The Other Icons of Buddha in the Sanctum

Apart from the Emerald Buddha, three other Buddha icons are found in the sanctum. Two standing crowned Buddha images are made of bronze and covered with gold, and other precious gems are on either side of the Emerald Buddha. They were made during the period of Rama III in 1841. He named the icon on the north side Phra Puttha Yodfa Chulalok and the one on the south side Phra Puttha Lerdla Sulalai. They were dedicated to Rama I and Rama II, respectively.

Phra Ubosot

A tiny seated meditating Buddha is also found in the sanctum. It is named Phra Samphut Panni. It was done by King Rama IV in 1830 CE. It must be noted that in this period, he was not a king but a Buddhist monk. It is said that he made the new form of Buddha's image without a cranial protuberance and instead wearing a pleated monastic robe.

A few more metal icons of Buddha in different postures are also found in the chapel. They do not seem to have much historical significance.

The Emerald Buddha and his travels

Who made the Emerald Buddha, and in which year? There is no record of this. It is widely accepted that it must have been made in the 15th century CE. It was first discovered in 1434 in Chiang Rai, a province in northern Thailand. It is believed that a Chedi (stupa) got opened by lightening, and this image was found inside.

An entrance with giant guardians on both sides

It was brought to Chiang Mai in 1481 by King Tilokaraj. In 1552, King Chaichettha took the image to Laos. Then it was sent to Vientiane city in 1564. It remained there till 1778. Rama I carried this to Thonburi, the old capital of Thailand. At that time, he was not a king.

On 5th March 1784, the image was brought from Wat Arun temple of Thonburi to this newly built temple.

This is the history behind the Emerald Buddha and his travels.

The Giant Guardians

There are six pairs of colorful giant guardians in different directions, but all of them face toward the sanctum. They are from various characters of the Thai Ramayana.

Ramakien is the version of Ramayana in Thailand. The character names are slightly different from that of the original Ramayana. Many versions of the Thai Ramayana were lost during the destruction of Ayutthaya in 1767. King Rama I supervised and partly wrote three versions of the Thai Ramayana, which still exist. Some parts were later rewritten by King Rama II.

The Giant Guardian

The Giant Guardian

The Doctor of Lord Buddha

The statue of Cheewok Komaraphat is found on the backside of the sanctum. This statue was built during the period of King Rama III. He is considered a doctor of Lord Buddha. He is regarded as the father of Thai herbal medicine. In front of him, a mortar and a grinding stone are placed. The believers grind medicine using them.

Cheewok Komaraphat

Twin Structures

There are two small enclosures found near the statue of Cheewok Komaraphat. They were built by Rama IV. The north structure is called Hor Phra Rajkorama nusorn, which houses 34 small Buddha images. The south side building is named Hor Phra Rajphongsanusorn. It houses 8 small Buddha images. Between them is a pavilion with a Thai crowned shape, decorated with colored porcelain mosaics, housing an old Prang. The leaves of the Bodhi tree from Bodha Gaya are enshrined in this prang. It is called Phra Pothithat Piman.

Hor Phra Rajphongasanusorn

As some repair work was happening, I could not get a clear picture of all the above three structures. Also, I could not enter the structures and see the Buddha images.

Phra Pothithat Piman

The Golden Stupa

North of the sanctum, there are three large buildings in a line found on an elevated platform. Initially, the temple's library, known as Ho Phra Monthien Tham in Thai, was situated in this spot. It was one of the original structures of this complex. It was unfortunately burnt down in a fire caused by fireworks during the period of King Rama I. These three structures were built later on this spot at different times.

A vast golden stupa is one of those three immense structures. It is known as Phra Sri Ratana Chedi in Thai. It was erected by King Rama IV in 1855 CE. Originally it was a white-colored structure. The golden tile mosaics were added later by King Rama V.

The stupa has a circular base and a bell shape on the top. It was built as per the Ceylonese architectural style. The relics of Lord Buddha are enshrined in this stupa.

The Golden Stupa

The Golden Stupa - Closeup View

Phra Mondop

The structure next to the golden stupa is one of the most attractive buildings in the entire complex. It is known as Phra Mondop. This is a Buddhist library built by Rama I in 1789 CE. It was the first building to be built on this elevated platform. Entry inside the library is restricted.

A large and beautiful mother-of-pearl inlay book cabinet is placed inside the library to house the Buddhist scripture. The outer walls are covered in green mirrored tiles inlaid with gold medallions depicting Buddha. The base is lined with two rows of small gilded Garuda images.

Phra Mondop

Guardian (Asurawayupak - semi Asura and semi-bird) at Phra Mondop

The Javanese-style stone images of Buddha carved in the 14th/15th century are found at the four corners of the Mondop. They were presented to King Rama V by the Governor of Java. 16 twelve-cornered columns support the intricately carved multi-tier roof. The entrances at all four sides are guarded by pairs of golden-colored figures of demons.

Gold medallions depicting Buddha and Garuda figures

Phra Mondop Entrance

Five hooded snake statue on the steps

Entrance with guards

Phra Mondop wall

Phra Mondop window

Phra Bussabok

Near the library, a small structure known as Phra Bussabok is found. It is a small open gilt structure with Garuda's image enshrined. The top portion with a tall spire resembles a stupa. It is surrounded by four tall and thin pillars. The gilt pavilions of the pillars contain royal emblems. The base has a few bronze images of white elephants in all four directions.

Phra Bussabok

Mini Angor Wat

Near Phra Bussabok, the model of the famous Angor Wat, the Khmer temple of Cambodia, is found. (Khmer - the ethnic group of Cambodia). This impressive mini-sized replica was constructed by King Rama IV.

Angor Wat Model

The Royal Pantheon

The Royal Pantheon, known as Prasat Phra Dhepbidorn in Thai, is the third big structure on the elevated platform. It was constructed by King Rama IV in 1856 to enshrine the Emerald Buddha; however, due to various reasons, that never happened. Today, there are eight statues of the previous Kings are found here. The entry is restricted.

The Royal Pantheon

The Royal Pantheon is a pavilion with a prang summit, built in Thai and Khmer architectural styles. It is flanked by two large gilded stupas constructed by King Rama I in memory of his parents. The stupas are supported by small icons of Vanaras and Rakshasas, the characters in the Ramakien epic.

Stupa supported by Rakshasas and Vanaras

The Royal Pantheon

The statues of some interesting mythological characters are found in the corridor of the Royal Pantheon and at the entrances.

Singhananorn is one such mythical character. It has a lion's head, legs, and tail, but the upper part of the body and the forearms are of a human. It is a semi-lion and semi-human character. 

Singhananorn

Asurapakshi is another mythical character found here. It is a combination of a giant bird and Asura.

Asurapakshi

Similar to Singhananorn, another mythical character is a semi-lion and semi-human character. However, in this case, the difference is that this character is tender and holds a flower in his right arm. The face is the human face, whereas Singhananorn's face is a lion face. This character's name is Thepnorasingha.

Thepnorasingha

The well-known Kinnara icon is also found here. Kinnaras are semi-human and semi-bird. They are popular in Indian mythology too. In Thai, they are referred to as Kinnorn.

Kinnorn

Like Kinnorn, Theppaksi is also a combination of bird and human, but with few variations. Also, this character holds a sword. 

Theppaksi

The beautiful celestial ladies, Apsaras, are known as Apsarasi in Thai. They are depicted as a combination of bird and female. They are the guardians of the entrance.

Apsarasi

Front-side view

 A structure similar to Phra Bussabok mentioned already, is found on the corridor. It is a pavilion having a Thai-crowned shape decorated with colorful porcelain mosaics, housing a Buddhist symbol. It is surrounded by four tall and thin pillars. The top portion with a tall spire resembles a stupa. However, no white elephant is found below.

A shrine on the corridor

Eight Prangs

Eight large and tall prangs (Khmer-style towers) are found on the east side of the temple complex. They were built by King Rama I. They are known as Phra Asadha Maha Chedi in Thai. Each tower is decorated in a different pastel color of Chinese porcelain. They represent the eight elements of Buddhism.

Prang

The structure of the prang can be classified into three parts. The lowermost portion has two layers of walls, each on top of the other, with multiple openings similar to entrances. The middle portion has ornate and colorful numerous tiers, with each top-level having a lesser perimeter than the tower below. The topmost part resembles a spire with four shrines facing four directions. The gilded icons of standing Buddha in different postures are enshrined there.

Phra Wiharn Yod

This beautiful and unique building was built by King Rama III. It was used as the chapel of many Buddha icons. It is a Thai crown decorated with colorful porcelain mosaics from China. The entrance is guarded by Tantima birds, a mythical semi-bird and semi-human creature.

A Chinese statue brought from China is also found in the corridor. The artistic decorative bowl with lily flowers is another attraction in this corridor.

Phra Wiharn Yod

Tantima Bird

Decorative Bowl

Chinese Statue

Phra Wiharn Yod behind the Angor Wat Model

Hor Phra Naga

This small structure is located next to Phra Wiharn Yod. It was built by King Rama I to enshrine the Buddha icon taken from Ayudhaya. But it was brought down by Rama III, and the current structure was built. It has the ashes of a few royal members now.

Roof of Hor Phra Naga

Hor Phra Gandhararat

A unique structure is found in the main shrine's southeast direction. Built by King Rama IV, it is named Hor Phra Gandhararat. It is a tiny chapel enshrining the Gandhara Buddha icon. The inner entrance and outer entrance are guarded by differently-looking lions. The chapel and the tower behind were finished in glazed ceramic tiles.

Buddha's icon is made of bronze. It is believed that this image has the power to invoke rain. The standing Buddha gestures to call down the shower with his arm, and the other arm is cupped to catch the falling water from the sky. This form of Buddha is not common in Thailand.

Lion guards

Hor Phra Gandhararat

Ramakien Mural Paintings

The gallery surrounding the shrines has mural paintings depicting various scenes from Ramakien, the Thai version of Ramayana. There are a total of 178 panels. They were initially painted during the period of King Rama I. But they have been renovated multiple times since then.

Ramakien Mural Painting

Ramakien Mural Painting

Ramakien Mural Painting

Other Structures

There are a few other structures within the temple complex, such as Belfry tower, which was constructed by Rama IV and Hor Phra Monthian Dharma, the library, which was built by the brother of Rama I.

Palace Structures

The palace complex is much bigger. As I mentioned at the beginning of this article, the temple complex is inside the palace area. Outside the temple, many buildings are part of the palace. Most of the buildings can be viewed only from the outside. Some of the buildings cannot be accessed at all. Let me write about a few of those structures now.

Dusita Phirom Hall

Originally built in wood by King Rama I and later rebuilt by King Rama III, the Kings used this building to change their costumes before mounting the elephant or palanquin. This is one of the first structures you could find after exiting the temple.

Dusita Phirom Hall

Chakri Maha Prasat Hall

Chakri Maha Prasat Hall is one of the major attractions of the palace. It was used as the residence of the King originally. It was built by King Rama V in 1877. The original design was done by the British architect John Clunish. However, the King made some changes to the architecture. Thus, this has been built with the mixed styles of European (lower part) and Thai styles (spires instead of domes).

Chakri Maha Prasat Hall

Chakri Maha Prasat Hall

Chakri Maha Prasat Hall

Phra Maha Montian Group

Opposite Chakri Maha Prasat Hall, the seven buildings called Phra Maha Montian Group are found together. The buildings were built by Rama I and Rama II.

Phra Maha Montian Group

Dusit Maha Prasat Hall

This is the grand spired hall, built by King Rama I to replace an earlier wooden building that burnt down.

Dusit Maha Prasat Hall

Phimanchaisri Gate

The most elaborate gate of the palace gate is Phimanchaisri Gate. It connects the outer court to the central court. In those days, the Kings used this gate to enter the palace and leave the same during special occasions.

Phimanchaisri Gate

Museum

The palace complex also has a well-maintained museum. Not only the artifacts inside the museum but even the building housing the museum is of heritage value. It was built by King Rama V. The bones of the white elephants, palanquins, royal costumes and several other artifacts related to the palace and the temple are displayed here.

Beside the museum, there are many canons arrayed in multiple rows. They were part of the royal armory. This is the last stop in the palace complex.

Canons

Challenges for Foreign Visitors

If you are a foreigner who does not speak the Thai language, be prepared to face the below-mentioned challenges:

• There is no signboard or map displayed in English.
• The place is highly crowded.
• Many of the shrines are closed to the public.
• Hardly anyone speaks English, and no one can guide the visitors.
• The entry fee is very costly for foreigners, and it's absolutely free for the locals.

Happy travelling.