Airavateswarar Temple - Kanchipuram

Perhaps, the Pallavas have gifted Kanchipuram abundantly. That might be why many of the heritage marvels remain neglected in the city. Airavateswarar Temple is one of such lesser-known gems from the Pallavas.


This temple with a small entrance is located in a busy corner on West Raja Street, opposite the famous Katchabeswara temple, surrounded by crowded shops. The later period ordinary tower may not encourage anyone to enter inside and explore. But, inside this simple entrance lies one of the city's most beautiful temples. The taller structures around the temple keep its beauty hidden from the outside world.


Airavat is the name of the white elephant of Indra. Airavateswarar could mean the Lord of Airavat. I am unsure about any Puranic legend connecting the presiding deity with Airavata.




The west-facing temple is small and has just the sanctum and a small Mukha Mandapa. The Nagara vimana is mainly destroyed and not visible from the ground level nowadays. The sanctum enshrines the Pallava period Dhara Lingam. The wall behind the Linga has relief images of Somaskanda along with Brahma and Vishnu. The panel is surrounded by Dwarapalas on either side. The north and south walls inside the sanctum have images of the Devas. (There are few other temples in this city where such figures are found on either side of Somaskanda. I personally think that the Devas are present on one side, and the group on the other side must be Asuras. There are differences in the facial features between both groups.)



The lintel of the sanctum entrance has a relief image of Ganesha. The Bhuta Mala (group of small images of Bhutas) is found above that. The door has Dwarapalas on either side.


The Mukha Mandapa has only two sculptures.


The south-facing interior wall of the Mukha Mandap has Urdhava Tandav Murti. He has six arms and holds various weapons in his arms. His right leg is raised towards the upside. Uma is found standing in a stylish posture to his left side. A few Ganas are also found here and there. The restoration work has spoiled some of the fine features of this sculpture.




The north-facing interior wall of the Mukha Mandapa has a rare depiction of Shiva as Chakra Dana Murti. He is seated along with his consort Uma. The lower portion of the panel depicts Vishnu in Anjali Mudra. He has six arms and knelt down to perform poojas to Daivika Lingam. The scholars might differ from me. But, I personally think that this panel depicts two different sequences. The lower portion represents Vishnu performing pooja to Shiv Linga. The upper part depicts Shiva with Uma, appearing in person to Vishnu. There is that third figure standing with his arms folded. I think this is also Vishnu. Here, he is shown merely with two arms to depict his humbleness in receiving the gift (discus) from the Lord.



The mandapa is supported by two vyala pilasters. The lintel has a series of Bhutas in different forms. The entrance of the Mukha Mandap, too, has two Dwarapalas. The relief images of Ganesha are found above both the Dwarapalas.

The Nandi Mandapa and small bali peetha are located towards the sanctum. They are not as old as the main structure.


Sculptures on the outer walls

There are a few sculptures on the outer walls of the sanctum and Mukha Mandap. Let me give the details of each and every sculpture found here.

Sculptures on the north wall

If we circumambulate the temple, the first sculpture found is Durga. She is seated on a lion. Her right leg rests on the ground, and her left leg is folded stylishly on the lion. There are a few figures around her; two birds on the top and an elephant below.



The next panel depicts Shiva with a bow called Tripurantaka. Brahma is found next to him in Anjali Mudra. A Dwarapala is also located next to Brahma. This panel is partly damaged. The other part of the panel is completely lost. I presume Vishnu must have been there originally. Now, we find a modern-day Brahma as the niche image instead.



The next sculpture is Kala Samhara Murti. This is badly damaged. Kala, or the lower half of Samhara Murti, is not found. Only the eroded upper portion of the sculpture exists. A Dwarapala is located next to him.



A sub-shrine with the later period Chandikeshwara is also found opposite Durga.

Sculptures on the east wall

The sculptures on the east wall are wholly gone. A newly made Naga devata is found in a niche. Definitely, the original temple would not have Naga Devta as the Koshta image.



Sculptures on the south wall

The sculptures on the southern exterior wall are also very badly damaged. One of the partially eroded images is Bhikshatana Murti. Uma is found next to him. It appears disconnected.



One Dwarapala and a divine figure in Anjali Mudra are partially visible. I presume this portion of the wall must have originally had Lingodbhava, with Brahma and Vishnu on either side. But there is no way that we could confirm that.

Totally six standing lions (vyalas) are found across these three walls.

Let me wish that at least the remaining sculptures be protected in the future.

Happy travelling.






Comments

  1. Such a wonderful description. Your love and devotion on the temple is visible in every word.. Thank you for such worthy detailing.

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