Kalaiyar Kovil

Kalaiyar Kovil, situated in the Sivaganga district of Tamil Nadu, India, is a quaint town renowned for its significant Lord Shiva temple. The town derives its name from this temple and is consequently known as Kalaiyar Kovil. Notably, this temple holds the distinguished position of being the 10th among the Devara Paadal Petra Sthalams, a compilation of 276 of the most revered Lord Shiva temples in the Pandya region.

Highlights:

• Sambandhar and Sundarar have revered the temple in their verses in Devaram. 
• Arunagirinathar has revered Murugan in this temple in his verses in Tiruppugal.
• There are three main shrines of Shiv Linga in this temple. But only one Shiv Linga (Kaleeswarar) has been mentioned in the Devaram verses.
• God - Kaleeswara, Somesar and Sundaresar 
• Goddess - Swarnavalli, Soundara Nayaki and Meenakshi 
• Teerth (Holy water) - Gaja Pushkarini (Anai Medu) is the main Teerth; there are other Teerthas too such as Shiva Gangai Kali Teerth, Vishnu Teerth, Saraswati Teerth, Rudra Teerth, Sudarshana Teerth, Gowri Teerth and Lakshmi Teerth
• Sthala Vruksha (Holy tree) - Mandarai (Yellow Orchid Tree)
• Considered as one of the Devara Paadal Petra Sthalams
• The site is also called as Tirukkanapper or Tirukkanap Perur. 
• Kaaleswara is also called as Kalaiyar, Swarna Kaaleswara or Kalainatheswara.
• Swarnavalli is also called as Mahamayee or Porkodi Ammai. 
• The temple is under the administration and maintenance of the trust run by Devakottai Zamindars.
• The Pandya period inscriptions are found 
• Marudu Pandiars, the brothers who ruled this region, made a lot of renovations and expansions to the temple.
• The Devakottai Zamindars have also contributed a lot on the structure and sculptures of the temple.
• It is said that one could view the tower of Madurai Meenakshi Amman temple from the tower of this temple.

Legend:

Kalai, the holy bull:

According to a legend, Lord Shiva once manifested as a bull in Sundarar's dream. Sundarar, in awe of this divine vision, referred to the deity as "Kalai," signifying a bull. Consequently, the deity became known as Kalaiyar.

Iravata, the white elephant:

Iravata, Indra's white elephant, fell under the curse of the sage Durvasa. On this very site, Iravata created a sacred tank known as Gaja Pushkirini or Anai Medu. Subsequently, the elephant immersed itself in the tank and fervently worshiped Lord Shiva, seeking relief from the curse.

Kali:

Another legend recounts the tale of Kali, who incurred the Brahmahatya dosh, a grave sin, after defeating the Asura named Bandasura. Seeking redemption, she arrived at this sacred place and created the Shiva Ganga Teerth. Kali purified herself by taking a divine dip in these waters, shedding her dark complexion to regain her golden hue. Thus, she was called Swarnavalli. She then wed Kaaleswara at this hallowed location.

Chandra:

Chandra, faced the consequences of his partiality, as he favored Rohini over his other wives. His father-in-law, Daksha, cursed him. In his pursuit of redemption, Chandra came to this site and offered worship to the Shiv Linga. In honor of this penance, the Shiv Linga was christened Someswara.

History:

The temple's origins, particularly the sanctum of Kaleeswarar and the smaller five-tiered tower, are traditionally attributed to Maravarman Sundara Pandya in the 7th century CE. It is also believed that Varaguna Pandya oversaw the construction of the impressive 100-pillared Mandapa and the shrine dedicated to Sundareswara. The grander nine-tiered tower, on the other hand, was erected by the Marudu brothers during the 18th century CE.

Within the temple complex, several stone inscriptions bearing the names of Pandya kings, including Jatavarman Sundara Pandya and Maravarman Kulasekhara Pandya I from the 13th century CE, have been discovered.

In the late 18th century, significant historical events unfolded around the temple. British forces, led by Col. Joseph Smitt and Cap. Bonjour, sought the assistance of the Arcot Nawab and advanced towards Kalaiyar Kovil. In the ensuing conflict, which transpired within the temple premises on June 25, 1772 CE, the King of Sivagangai, Muthu Vaduga Nathar, met his demise. Subsequently, with the support of Hyder Ali of Mysore, the Marudu brothers emerged as formidable leaders, taking control of Sivagangai and installing Velu Nachiar, the deceased king's widow, as the queen.

During this period, Sivagangai experienced political turbulence, marked by British forces under Lt. Col Agnew capturing Panchalankurichi and subsequently pursuing Oomai Durai until they reached Kalaiyar Kovil. Although the Marudu brothers and their army valiantly contested the British forces, they ultimately succumbed, resulting in Kalaiyar Kovil falling under British control.

Furthermore, in these turbulent times, the British forces also defeated Veerapandia Kattabommu of Panchalankurichi. Oomai Durai, Veerapandia Kattabommu's brother, found refuge in Sivagangai. It is said that the Britishers allegedly threatened to demolish the temple tower, a circumstance that purportedly compelled the Marudu brothers to surrender to the British authorities. Tragically, on November 16, 1801 CE, the brothers, along with Oomai Durai, met their end through hanging.

In the aftermath of these tumultuous events, the temple faced a period of dormancy, with no ceremonies or prayers conducted for several years. It was only through the efforts of the Devakottai Zamindars, who undertook extensive repairs and renovations, that the temple was eventually reopened for public worship.

Temple Layout, Architecture and Sculptures:

Tower:

Covering an extensive 4-acre area, this temple boasts two impressive east-facing towers exuding grandeur and charm. The larger of the two towers stands tall with nine tiers, while the smaller one features five tiers. Both towers maintain an unembellished façade, devoid of stucco embellishments, allowing their sheer magnificence to shine through. The grander tower spans a width of 93 feet and soars to a height of 155.5 feet, while the smaller tower measures 57 feet 8 inches in width and rises to a height of 90 feet.

The sub-shrines of Ganesha and Kartikeya are found at the entrance of the bigger tower, accompanied by the presence of a stone lamp post at the forefront.

A colossal tank named Aanai Madu graces the area in front of these two magnificent towers, resembling an expansive ocean in scale. At the center of this vast tank stands a grand mandapa crowned by a vimana, complemented by four miniature vimanas placed in all cardinal directions. The mandapa's ceiling is adorned with exquisite paintings, making it a captivating sight for visitors. The sheer scale of the tank may lead first-time observers to ponder whether the temple or the tank commands greater prominence.

An open space separates the larger tower from the inner entrance, which, unlike the main towers, does not bear a towering structure but features several stucco images depicting the divine family of Lord Shiva. Within this area, a temple elephant gracefully resides, adding an additional layer of charm to the surroundings.

Three Gods and Goddesses:

The temple houses three sanctums, each enshrining a Shiv Linga with its distinct significance. These Shiv Lingas are known as Kaaleswarar, Someswarar, and Sundareswarar. Among them, the sanctum of Someswarar, positioned at an elevated level, is the most substantial. In front of Someswarar, a large Nandi is seated atop a lofty pedestal, with an equally towering flagstaff nearby. 

The consorts of Shiv Lingas, namely Swarna Valli, Soundara Nayaki and Meenakshi are found in separate south-facing shrines adjacent to the respective sanctums of Shiv Lingas.

Kaaleswarar's shrine, centrally located, is flanked by Someswarar to its right and Sundaraeswara to its left. Kaaleswarar's shrine features a smaller five-tiered tower, while Someswarar's shrine boasts a larger tower. Notably, Kaaleswarar holds paramount importance among these three Shiv Lingas, as the Devaram hymns were specifically dedicated to him, setting him apart from the other two Lingas.

Among the three shrines of Goddesses, Swarna Valli's shrine is the most extensive among them, featuring its own prakara (enclosure) and an elongated front-side mandapa adorned with tall granite pillars. Within this mandapa, an image of Nandi faces the graceful Goddess.

Periya Marudu

Koshta Images:

The three sanctums collectively feature similar Koshta deities, including Ganesha, Dakshinamurti, Lingodbhava, Brahma, and Durga. These images, crafted during a later period, are attributed to the Nagarathars. Additionally, a sub-shrine dedicated to Chandikeshwara can be found adjacent to Durga, a customary arrangement within temple complexes.

Other portions and sculptures:

• The images of Ganesha and Murugan at the inner entrance of the temple.
• The statue of Muthu Vaduga Nathar in the front side mandapa of Someswara shrine.
• Sapta Matas and Veera Bhadra in the prakara of Someswara as well as that of Kaaleswara.
• The statues of Kizhavan Sethupati, Chinna Marudu and Periya Marudu in one on the front side mandapa of Kaaleswarar shrine.
• The mural paintings of four elderly people of Devakottai Zamindars; one of them is Arunachala Gnana Desika Swamigal alias Zamindar Swamigal.
• The ancient (probably Pandya period) icons of Brahma and Lingodbhava in the prakara of Kaaleswarar shrine. They should have been the original Koshta images. Now they are kept in the prakara as the temple was renovated and new smaller Koshta icons took their place.
• Ten armed Vallabha Ganapati and Subramanya seated on peacock - both the icons appear to be ancient.
• The stucco statue of Varaguna Pandya near the shrine of Sundareswarar.
• 100 pillared Mandapa
• Few other small mandapas
• Broad corridor all over the temple with large pillars with lion statue on the top. Some pillars even have Vyalas. The relief images on the pillar are not so attractive.
• A holy tank near the 100 pillared mandapa.
• Nataraja-Sivakami shrine
• Surya, Chandra, Bhairav and Navagrahas
• A lot of Shiv Lingas in the prakaras.
• Nalvars and few other devotees.
• Sahasra Lingam outside the shrine of Someswara.
• 18 feet high fortified wall around the entire temple complex.

Vedanta Mutt

Vedanta Mutt:

On the opposite side of the expansive temple tank, Anai Madu, stands a grand mansion, echoing the distinct Chettinad architectural style. This imposing edifice holds a remarkable history intertwined with the Zamindar of Devakottai.

The Zamindar embarked on a transformative journey that led him to Kalaiyar Kovil, from which he never returned to his ancestral home. Surrendering worldly possessions, he embraced the life of a sanyasi, choosing a path of spiritual devotion. In a gesture of profound generosity, he bestowed this magnificent mansion upon the Vedanta Mutt, an institution overseen by Chellappa Gnana Desika Swamigal.

Zamindar Swami and his Guru

Under the tutelage of Swamigal, the Zamindar found spiritual enlightenment, and the local populace began to affectionately refer to him as Zamindar Swamigal or Arunachala Gnana Desika Swamigal.

Zamindar Swamigal's spiritual journey culminated in samadhi, a state of profound meditation and spiritual realization, on the 9th of January in the year 1933 CE. Both his and his revered Guruji's samadhis now rest within the confines of this sacred mutt, where a Shiv Linga has been installed atop his final resting place, symbolizing the transcendence of the soul.

Marudu Pandya Mani Mandapa

The Mani Mandapa of Marudu Pandya is very near the tank. The samadhi of Periya Marudu is found here. His statue is installed in the mandapa and the locals worship him as a deity.

Happy travelling. 

Vedanta Mutt

Vedanta Mutt