Indian Columbus

Following the ceiling murals of the Ardha Mandapa explored in an earlier part of this series, attention now shifts to the architectural and sculptural details of this transitional space within the Veerabhadra Temple. The Ardha Mandapa not only serves as a structural connector between the Maha Mandapa and the Garbha Griha, but it also presents some of the finest sculptural compositions found within the temple complex. At the eastern entrance to the Ardha Mandapa stand two imposing dwarapalakas (guardian figures).  Towards the eastern end of the Ardha Mandapa , attached to a massive granite boulder, lies the small shrine dedicated to Papanasheshvara , a form of Shiva. What makes this area truly remarkable is the presence of a large rock-cut relief of Bhikshatanamurti , sculpted directly on the back face of the boulder. In addition to the narrative ceiling and the Bhikshatana panel, the Ardha Mandapa features two prominent freestanding sculptures placed along the inner corridor...

Following the vivid ceiling murals of the Ardha Mandapa and the painted narratives spread across other shrines and corridors, the focus now shifts to the Natya Mandapa , the dance pavilion of the Lepakshi Veerabhadra Temple. Far more than a stage for performance, the Natya Mandapa is a theatre of visual storytelling, where mythology, legend, royal memory, and cosmic drama unfold in sequential panels across its ornate ceiling. The Manu Needhi Cholan Panel Occupying the entrance ceiling of the Natya Mandapa is one of the largest continuous murals in the temple , measuring approximately 18.5 metres by 2 metres . This sprawling panel depicts the famous Manu Needhi Cholan episode , a legendary story of justice associated with the Chola king at Thiruvarur . According to the legend, the prince, while driving a horse cart, accidentally crushed a calf under its wheels. The grieving mother cow walked straight to the palace gates and rang the royal bell of justice. Upon enquiry, King Manu N...

After exploring the celebrated ceiling paintings of the Ardha Mandapa in the previous part of this series, attention now turns to other painted spaces within the Lepakshi Veerabhadra Temple. Scattered across subsidiary shrines, corridors, and ceilings, these murals extend the visual narrative of the temple and reveal the richness of Vijayanagara imagination beyond the main hall. A Treasure of Color and Faith Within the sacred precincts of Lepakshi lies a remarkable pictorial archive that chronicles both divine mythology and courtly refinement. The murals, executed during the reign of Achyutaraya (16th century CE) under the patronage of the temple builders Virupanna Nayaka and Viranna , represent one of the most accomplished phases of Vijayanagara painting. They combine devotion and artistic mastery in equal measure, blending mythic storytelling with minute ornamental detail. Though centuries of exposure and occasional retouching have altered their surface, the paintings continue t...

After exploring the origin of Lepakshi, the sprawling temple layout, and the majestic Veerabhadra and other deities in the previous parts of this series, we now turn our gaze upward...towards one of the most remarkable aspects of the temple: the ceiling paintings of the Ardha Mandapa. Among the many wonders of the Lepakshi temple, the ceiling paintings of the Ardha Mandapa stand out as one of the most significant contributions to Vijayanagara art. These murals not only exemplify the religious fervour of the 16th century but also offer a rich visual record of themes drawn from Shaiva traditions, epics, and courtly life. The murals were first recorded in 1912–13 by A. H. Longhurst , who noted their presence but lamented the lack of preservation. In subsequent decades, the paintings suffered deterioration due to leakage, dampness, and neglect. Despite the fading, they remain a critical artistic repository. Art historian C. Sivaramamurti considered them among the most important examples ...

After exploring the origin of Lepakshi, the sprawling temple layout, and the majestic Veerabhadra in the previous parts of this series, we now step further into the inner layers of the temple complex, where several spiritually significant shrines reside. While Veerabhadra is the presiding deity, these additional shrines reflect the architectural depth, religious syncretism, and artistic intricacy of the Vijayanagara period. Ranganatha Shrine (Vishnu Shrine) To the east of the main Mukhamandapa of Veerabhadra’s shrine lies a compact but richly detailed shrine dedicated to Vishnu, identified as Ranganatha in a 16th-century inscription (Saka 1459 / CE 1537). This shrine is directly accessible through a doorway in the west wall of the mukhamandapa. Within the shrine stands an image of Vishnu, flanked by two consorts. The shrine follows the Nagara style of architecture , with a Dvitala Vimana. Papavinasesvara Shrine Tucked inside the same enclosure and facing west is the Papavinasesvara Sh...

After exploring the origins of Lepakshi and understanding the architectural layout of the Veerabhadra Temple in the first two parts of this series, I now turn my attention to the temple’s spiritual and visual centre, the awe-inspiring sanctum of the presiding deity Veerabhadra and his iconography. Veerabhadra of Lepakshi – The Fiery Protector in Stone and Spirit At the heart of the Lepakshi temple complex, within the inner enclosure, stands the sanctum sanctorum that houses Veerabhadra , a fearsome and awe-inspiring form of Shiva. The layout of the shrine itself commands attention;a north-facing garbhagriha , preceded by an antarala , a mukha mandapa , and further flanked by a pillared corridor and the vibrant natyamandapa . This is no ordinary shrine, and Veerabhadra is no ordinary deity. He is said to have emerged from the wrath of Shiva during the destruction of the Daksha Yagna, a fierce manifestation born of sorrow and rage after the self-immolation of Sati. What one encounters a...

In my previous post, I explored the origins and spiritual significance of Lepakshi, a site layered with mythology, history, and devotion. In this article, I turn to the architectural layout of the Veerabhadra Temple, a structure that reveals its stories not just through sculptures and paintings but through the very spatial arrangement of its sacred geography. The Veerabhadra Temple of Lepakshi does not conform to the rigid axial geometry typical of many South Indian temples. Instead, it presents an organic, multi-tiered layout, an architectural evolution shaped by time, function, and devotion. This irregularity adds to its charm, hinting at the layers of expansion and spiritual imagination it has absorbed over centuries. Temple on a Tortoise-Shaped Hill The temple complex sits atop a granite outcrop locally known as Kurma Saila , a hill shaped like a tortoise. The entire temple spreads across approximately 2.5 acres , making it one of the largest architectural ensembles in the regio...

Just about 120 km from Bengaluru and located inside the Anantapur district of Andhra Pradesh lies a town that whispers stories through its rocks, murals, and sacred winds: Lepakshi . A place where legends of sages and kings, stone-carved wonders, and centuries of spiritual heritage converge. This sleepy town is home to the magnificent Veerabhadra Temple , a Vijayanagara-period marvel famed for its intricate sculptures, hanging pillar, ceiling paintings, and the iconic monolithic Nandi , one of the largest of its kind in India. Yet, Lepakshi is more than just its temple. It’s a palimpsest of myths, dynasties, and sacred geography, waiting to be explored one step at a time. Lepakshi Nagalinga Swami What’s in a Name? The earliest known reference to Lepakshi is found in the Skanda Purana , where it is mentioned as Lepakshya-Papanasanah , one among the 108 sacred Shaiva sthalas (pilgrimage sites) of South India. Inscriptions call it by various names -  Lepaksha , Lepakshi , or Lepaks...

In the shadow of divine legends and Vijayanagara grandeur, a young granite bull gazes westward in eternal devotion. About a kilometre before you reach the famed Lepakshi Temple in Andhra Pradesh, the road gently curves to reveal one of India’s largest monolithic Nandi sculptures, a silent guardian carved from a single block of granite, immovable yet full of life. This colossal Nandi , known simply as the Lepakshi Nandi , is one of the finest and most massive of its kind. Sculpted in couchant posture, it measures around 27 feet long and 15 feet high , making it not just one of the largest Nandi sculptures in the country, but one of the most beautifully proportioned. What’s more, it isn’t tucked within a temple complex but rather sits open to the sky , welcoming travellers as they enter the sacred town. Lepakshi Nandi A Young Bull in Stone This Nandi is not just about size; it is about detail. A graceful bell necklace , muvvahara ( a triple-strand necklace) , and delicate earrings a...