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Krishnapuram Temple Sculptures – Episode 9: Bhima, Purushamriga, and the Living Pillars of Mukha Mandapa

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About 13 kilometers from Tirunelveli lies the historically resonant village of Krishnapuram , home to the awe-inspiring Venkatachalapati Temple . For those unable to journey to Tirupati, this 16th-century shrine offers a sacred alternative. But beyond spiritual fulfilment, Krishnapuram offers a breathtaking artistic experience—a sculptural gallery carved in stone, unmatched in narrative and finesse. Unlike typical temple narratives that begin with the presiding deity or architectural layout, Krishnapuram demands a different approach. Here, it is the sculptural brilliance of the Nayaka period that commands attention. With photography strictly prohibited inside, every visit becomes a fresh discovery. This is the ninth article in my series. In the first six, I covered the sculpted pillars of the Veerappa Nayakka Mandapa . The seventh and eighth episodes focused on the easternmost pillars of the Mukha Mandapa , facing north. In this episode, we explore the fifth, sixth, and seventh pil...

Krishnapuram Temple Sculptures – Episode 8: The Iconic Manmada and Artistic Pillars of the Mukha Mandapa

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About 13 kilometers from Tirunelveli lies the heritage-rich village of Krishnapuram , renowned for its grand Venkatachalapati Temple . Local tradition believes that this 16th-century temple serves as an alternative for those unable to visit Tirupati. However, Krishnapuram offers more than spiritual solace—it is a living museum of Nayaka-period art. While many temple articles begin with the presiding deity or sthala purana, the true calling card of Krishnapuram is its life-sized sculptures , carved with unmatched finesse. With photography prohibited inside the temple, witnessing these works in person becomes an unforgettable experience. This is the eighth article in my ongoing series on the temple. The first six focused on the six sculpted pillars of the Veerappa Nayakka Mandapa . In the seventh article, I introduced the two northern-facing pillars at the eastern end of the Mukha Mandapa . This episode begins with the third pillar from the east , which also faces north. Third Pilla...

Immaculate Conception Cathedral, Puducherry - A Timeless Blend of Faith and Grandeur

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The Immaculate Conception Cathedral, also known locally as Samba Kovil , stands as one of the most significant landmarks in Puducherry. With over three centuries of history, this magnificent cathedral continues to captivate visitors with its impressive façade, serene interiors, intricate statues, and rich heritage. Immaculate Conception Cathedral Puducherry Front View History of the Cathedral The history of the Immaculate Conception Cathedral dates back to 1689 when the Jesuit Fathers, with financial aid from the King of France, erected the original structure. However, it was demolished by the Dutch a year later. A second church was built on the site in 1699. From 1728 to 1736, another large church was constructed, only to be destroyed during British attacks in 1761. The present cathedral was completed in 1791, following the return of the Jesuits after the British left. Bishop Champenois led its construction, and its design closely resembles the churches of 17th-century Portuguese ...

Victor Schoelcher Statue – A Tribute to an Anti-Slavery Crusader in Puducherry

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Standing silently against the backdrop of the Bay of Bengal along the scenic Promenade Beach in Puducherry is a striking metallic bust of Victor Schoelcher — a name that may not be familiar to many Indians, yet one that holds immense historical weight in French and colonial abolitionist history. Front view of Victor Schoelcher bust with sea background in Puducherry Statue Features and Description This bronze-toned bust rests on a tall, black granite pedestal and portrays a deeply contemplative Schoelcher. The sculpture beautifully captures his sharp features — a bald head, furrowed brow, and a chiseled face that reflects wisdom and determination. The expression is intense and reflective, perhaps hinting at the moral weight he carried during his lifetime. On the front face of the pedestal, a small relief sculpture shows a man and woman — symbolically representing freedom from bondage, an apt tribute to Schoelcher’s legacy as a staunch abolitionist. The rear view of the bust shows a...

Sri Aurobindo Ashram – Tranquility and Purpose in the Heart of Puducherry

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Tucked within the serene lanes of White Town, not far from the bustling seafront promenade, Sri Aurobindo Ashram stands as one of Puducherry’s most cherished and spiritually significant landmarks. A visit here is less about tourism and more about introspection – a unique blend of calm, discipline, and inner exploration. Among the top things to do in Puducherry , a visit to this ashram offers an experience that touches both the soul and the senses. The Beginnings of a Spiritual Community In 1910, Aurobindo Ghosh – a philosopher, poet, and Indian freedom fighter – withdrew from active politics and settled in Puducherry to pursue a spiritual path. Over time, a small group of followers gathered around him. The ashram’s formal inception took place on 24 November 1926, when Sri Aurobindo chose complete seclusion and entrusted the community's care to his spiritual collaborator, Mirra Alfassa , later revered as The Mother . Under The Mother's leadership, this small gathering of d...

Bharati Park – A Green Oasis in the Heart of White Town, Puducherry

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Right in the center of White Town, Pondicherry’s historic colonial quarter, lies Bharati Park – a tranquil green space that offers a gentle escape from the bustle of urban life. Located in the heart of White Town and bordered by streets such as Rue Romain Rolland and Rue Saint Louis, this park is not just a spot for relaxation, but also a silent witness to centuries of history, colonial transitions, and civic pride. A Historical Backdrop In the early 1700s, the French captured the Puducherry region from the Dutch and soon constructed Fort Louis , a well-planned fortification with defensive walls and bastions to protect their new settlement. This fort became the administrative and military center of French power in the region. However, during the Carnatic Wars in the 1760s, the British forces defeated the French and demolished Fort Louis , leaving behind only fragments of its once-imposing structure. For many decades after, the area remained an open ground, occasionally used for ...

Aayi Mandapam – A Courtesan’s Legacy in the Heart of Puducherry

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Tucked within the serene expanse of Bharati Park , surrounded by well-manicured lawns, blooming flowers, and tall swaying palms, stands a striking ivory-white monument — Aayi Mandapam . Located just a few minutes’ walk from the Promenade in what is now known as White Town , this elegant structure might easily be mistaken for a colonial arched gateway at first glance. But beyond its European-style architecture lies a powerful story of sacrifice, resilience, and unexpected legacy. Who Was Aayi? Aayi was not royalty, nor a noblewoman. She was a courtesan from the 16th century. The legend goes that during one of his visits to the region, the Vijayanagara King Krishnadeva Raya mistook her well-lit and ornate home for a temple and stopped to offer prayers. Upon realizing his error, he felt deeply humiliated. Enraged, he ordered that the house be demolished. Faced with shame and heartbreak, Aayi pleaded for a chance to make amends. She offered to tear down her own home and requested permi...