Madurai Meenakshi Sundareswara Temple - The Grand Temple of Temple City

When you hear about Madurai, you would automatically think about Meenakshi. Meenakshi has been a synonym for the historic city for hundreds of years. Meenakshi Sundareswara Temple - do we have anyone in this nation (India) who has not heard about this gigantic temple? Else, do we have any visitor who was not carried away by its extraordinary beauty? This temple is one of the largest and famous temples in the entire nation. It is the pride of Tamil Nadu. Due to this temple, the whole city, Madurai, is referred to as the Temple City of India.

I know it is not easy to pen down about the glory of such a magnificent temple. That's why I took about one year to write this article. It was like a penance; I visited the temple multiple times. I always have my camera and mobile phone to capture details and take notes. But, they are not allowed in this temple. I stood in front of every hall and tower for many hours patiently to note down the details on architecture and iconography manually. I read and referred to many books about the city and temple. This article is the end of such a tedious job done single-handedly.

I have attempted to cover all aspects of the temple entirely in this article. The language would be simple, easy-to-understand, which is my typical style. This article is no less than any detailed book that is available today. As of today (2020 CE), there is no other single source on the internet that provides so much information about this temple.

East Tower
East Tower


Madurai - An Introduction


For the benefit of starters, let me add a brief intro about Madurai.

Madurai is the third-largest city of Tamil Nadu State in India. It is considered as the cultural capital of the state. It is called the Temple City of India. Meenakshi Sundareswara Temple, one of the biggest and the most famous temples of the nation, is located here.

The city, which has around 2,000 years of history, is one of the ancient cities of India, which is still active. It is closely associated with the development of Tamil language.

Besides the Meenakshi temple, there are so many smaller and bigger old temples located across the city. There are few other attractive tourist sites such as museums and palaces located here.

Sharbeswara controlling the eight-armed Narasimha - Stucco image from East Tower
Sharbeswara controlling the eight-armed Narasimha - Stucco image from East Tower


History of Madurai


Can we date the age of Tamil language? No! Similarly, we cannot date this ancient city called Madurai and its rulers, the Pandyas. Let me talk about the history of the city before providing the details about the temple.

The Sangam Age


A major congregation of Tamil poets called Tamil Sangam was held in Madurai. Although historically not agreed upon, there are references which state that there were first two Sangams which were held in Kapadapuram and South Madurai. (As per the references from the old Tamil texts, these cities were submerged under the sea). The Pandya Kings arranged for the third Sangam in Madurai. The Third Sangam period extends roughly from the 3rd century BCE to 2nd century CE. The earliest texts of Tamil language which were written during this period are called as Tamil Sangam literature texts.

Certain Sangam period texts such as Madurai Kanchi, Silappadhikaram and Manimegalai mention a lot about Madurai city. Kautilya referred Madurai in "Arthashastra" in the 3rd/4th century BCE (the period is arguable). "The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea", a Greek text of the 1st century CE, refers to Madurai. There are many Jain sites on the hillocks of Madurai, which have stone inscriptions that belong to the period between the 2nd century BCE and the 2nd century CE. Some of them call the city as Matira. Mahabharata, one of the oldest Sanskrit works, talks about the city.

From the time immemorial, the Pandyas had been ruling Madurai city, and it always remained as their capital city.

Vishnu in different forms with folded hands in front of Shiva - Stucco images of East Tower
Vishnu in different forms with folded hands in front of Shiva - Stucco images of East Tower

Under the Kalabhras


After the Sangam age, which is roughly between the 3rd century CE and the 6th century CE, the entire Tamil Nadu, including Madurai came under the rule of Kalabhras. This 350+ years of period is considered the Dark Age in the History of Tamils.

The Revival of Pandyas


Towards the end of the 6th century CE, the Pandya dynasty revived under the leadership of Kadungon. He won the Kalabhras and re-established Pandya Empire with Madurai as its capital. For the next three hundred years, the Pandya empire and Madurai city flourished.

The Cholas Supremacy


Parantaka Chola I captured Madurai in the 10th century CE. For the next few years, there were many conflicts and battles between the Cholas and the Pandyas to hold the Pandya region. It was Rajaraja Chola I who annexed the Pandya kingdom and made it a territory as part of the Chola Empire. He renamed the Pandya territory as Rajaraja Mandalam.

During his reign, Rajendra Chola appointed his son as the Viceroy to govern the Pandya region. He also built a big palace in Madurai. The Viceroys were given the title of Chola Pandyan. The Viceroys ruled Madurai till the period of Veera Rajendra Chola (1063-69 CE).

During the period of Kulotunga Chola I (1070-1112 CE), the Pandyas started revolting against the Cholas. Instead of the Viceroys, the Pandya Kings started ruling Madurai, however, by accepting the overlordship of the Cholas.

Ravana lifting Kailash - Stucco image in East Tower
Ravana lifting Kailash - Stucco image in East Tower

Malik Kafur's Invasion


Again, the Pandya supremacy was made possible during the period of Kulotunga Chola III. He was defeated by Maravarman Sundara Pandya I (1216-35 CE) in the early 13th century CE. However, the Hoysalas interfered and helped the Cholas to gain control again. There came a mighty Emperor in the Pandya dynasty - Jatavarman Sundara Pandya I (1251-68 CE). He subdued Rajendra Chola III and ended the rule of Cholas ultimately. He even controlled the Hoysalas and expanded his empire.

Unfortunately, Madurai was not lucky enough to have political stability thereafter. After the death of Maravarman Kulasekhara Pandya I (1268-1310 CE), there was a civil war between his sons Vira Pandya II and Sundara Pandya IV. It was the time when the Hoysala King Ballala III invaded Madurai. However, Ballala had to return to his country to fight the Delhi Sultanate invasion.

Malik Kafur, the General of Alauddin Khalji (Delhi Sultanate) invaded South India and made substantial damages to many towns. When Kafur's army camped in Dwarasamudram town, Sundara Pandya IV requested Kafur to invade Madurai and help him against his brother.

Accordingly, Malik Kafur marched Madurai on 13th April 1311 CE. Without shame, the Pandya brothers fled Madurai. Malik Kafur destroyed all the 14 temple towers and significant portions of Meenakshi temple and plundered the jewels and idols. He also damaged all the critical structures of the city and took the wealth to Delhi. His army was there in the city till 25th April.

Indra on the elephant - South Tower
Indra on the elephant - South Tower

Two More Invasions


The purpose of Malik Kafur's invasion was to plunder the wealth of South India and not to rule the region. Hence, he returned to Delhi. After his return, the Pandya princes continued to fight among themselves and each controlled smaller parts of the region separately.

In the meantime, there were many political changes in Delhi. In 1317 CE, when Qutb-ud-din Mubarak Shah, was ruling Delhi, his General Khusrau Khan, invaded South India. He ultimately reached Madurai. Similar to what had happened earlier, the Pandya Kings ran out of their region without fighting him.  Realizing that Khusrau Khan was trying to maneuver and declare himself monarch of Madurai, the other Generals arrested and took him to Delhi.

The political uncertainty in Madurai continued. It is not easy to record who controlled what. There was major chaos in the Pandya region. At the same time, there were again a few political changes in Delhi. When the Tughlaq dynasty started ruling Delhi, Ulugh Khan invaded South India in 1323 CE. Unlike his predecessors, he was interested in annexing the regions under his empire. He easily defeated Parakrama Pandya and annexed Madurai. Thus Madurai became one of the territories of Delhi Sultanate. (Ulugh Khan later became the Sultan of Delhi and was known as Muhammad bin Tughlaq).

Meenakshi and Sundaresa - South Tower
Meenakshi and Sundaresa - South Tower


Sultanate Rule


Jalaluddin Ahsan Khan, the Governor of Madurai under the Tughlaqs, declared independence in 1335 CE. (As per few historians, it was 1333 CE). The short-lived Madurai Sultanate ruled the city between 1335 and 1378 CE. There were eight Sultans who ruled Madurai for 40 years. The last Sultan was Alauddin Sikandar.

Kampanna, the army commander of the Vijayanagara Empire, invaded Madurai and captured it in 1371 CE. His father, Bukka Raya I was the ruler of the empire during that time. Kampanna declared himself as the Governor of Madurai - Madurai Maha Mandaleswara. However, as we understand, the Madurai Sultans ruled Madurai even after that. Only in 1378 CE, the Sultan's rule came to an end and the city ultimately went under the Vijayanagaras. (Did the Sultans rule few parts of Madurai in the last seven years or did they accept the sovereignty of Kampanna? It is not clearly captured in the historical records, as far as I know.)

Nataraja, Veerabhadra, Kali Images - South Tower
Nataraja, Veerabhadra, Kali Images - South Tower

Nayaks Rule


The Vijayanagaras did not rule Madurai directly. They appointed Maha Mandaleswaras (Governors) to rule the city. These Mandaleswaras were called as Nayakkars by the people. Later, Nayakkar became the surname for a particular group and ultimately, it emerged into a caste. (Not everyone agrees with this view, I admit.)

In the 1400s, Madurai came under the rule of Vanadirayars. They were defeated by Narasa Nayaka, the minister of Immadi Narasimha (Vijaynagara Emperor; father of Krishnadeva Raya) in the first half of the 1500s.

In 1528 CE, the Governor of Madurai, Nagama Nayak declared himself an independent king. The Vijayanagara Emperor, Krishnadeva Raya imprisoned him. Krishnadeva appointed Nagama Nayak's son, Vishwanatha Nayak as the Governor of Madurai, as he had helped the emperor to imprison his father. Later, after the demise of Krishnadeva, Vishwanatha Nayak declared himself an independent ruler. Thus, the Madurai Nayak dynasty started with Vishwanatha Nayak.

Thus, Nayak's rule in Madurai started in 1529 CE with Vishwanatha Nayak being the first Nayak Ruler. Their rule ended in 1736 CE with Meenakshi as the ruler. There were totally 13 rulers. Tirumalai Nayak, Mangammal and Meenakshi, among them, are very popular.

10-headed Subramanya and 18-armed Veerabhadra - South Tower
10-headed Subramanya and 18-armed Veerabhadra - South Tower


Later Period


Chanda Sahib defeated the last Nayak ruler Meenakshi. For the next 60-70 years, there was political uncertainty. Madurai was repeatedly captured by Chanda Sahib, Maruthanayagam, Arcot Nawab and Marathas. At last, the British East India Company annexed Madurai in 1801 CE. In 1947 CE, Madurai became part of independent India.

Ravana raising Kailash and Meenakshi Wedding - South Tower
Ravana raising Kailash and Meenakshi Wedding - South Tower


Meenakshi Sundareswara Temple - Introduction


I know the history of Madurai became a bit lengthy. However, I feel it is essential for the readers to know about Madurai as a city before getting introduced to Meenakshi Sundareswara Temple, as Meenakshi is more like a synonym for Madurai. If you talk about Madurai, you cannot avoid talking about Meenakshi; similarly, if I have to write about Meenakshi and her temple, it is unavoidable to give a brief idea about this ancient city.

As per Tiruvilaiyadal Purana, there are 64 important holy sites of Shiva. Among them, Chidambaram, Kasi, Kalahasthi and TiruAalavai are the most important. Those who visit Chidambarm, those who die in Kasi and those who worship in Kalahasthi would get salvation (moksha). However, Tiru Aalavai (Madurai) is more unique. There is no need to visit, worship, stay or die here. Just by hearing the holy name of Tiru Aalavai, one would get salvation. Here, the city receives this supreme status because of the Meenakshi Sundareswara temple located there.

Meenakshi Temple is located at the center of Madurai; instead, it is more meaningful to say that the entire city was planned and developed around this magnificent temple.


10-headed and 20-armed Subramanya - South Tower
10-headed and 20-armed Subramanya - South Tower


Sundareswara is a form of Lord Shiva and Meenakshi is his consort. Both God and Goddess are given equal significance in this temple and hence the temple is being referred to as Meenakshi Sundareswara Temple. Sundareswara has another name, Chokkanatha. Consequently, people also call this Meenakshi Chokkanathar Temple or Meenakshi Temple.

It is one of the largest and most famous temples in India. Meenakshi Temple is one of the three most important temples of Goddess (the other two are Kanchi Kamakshi and Kashi Vishalakshi temples).

The temple is as old as the city or as old as the Pandya dynasty. More about the history and the traditions are provided in the subsequent sections.


16-armed Veerabhadra - South Tower
16-armed Veerabhadra - South Tower


Legend and History of Meenakshi Sundareswara Temple


The self-manifested Shiv Linga


Somasundara, the Shiv Linga of Madurai, is considered as older than the Shiv Lingas of other important sites such as Kailash, Vindhya, Kedar and Kasi. It is a self-manifested Linga (Swayambhu Linga).

Indra, the Lord of Devas, fought with an Asura named Vridhasura and ultimately killed him. By killing the Asura, Indra was affected by Brahmahatya dosha (a kind of sin). He visited various sacred places on the earth with the hope of getting rid of his problem, but of no use. At last, when he passed through a forest full of Kadamba trees, he was liberated from his curse.

The astonished Indra wanted to know what in this forest caused his purification. Upon his order, the Devas cleared the trees and discovered a Shiv Linga.

Kadamba Vanam (the forest of Kadamba tree) was the name of the place, which is the current day Madurai.

Maha Sada Shiva Murti - South Tower
Maha Sada Shiva Murti - South Tower


Pottramarai

Indra wanted to perform pooja to Shiv Linga by offering flowers, but he could not find flowers anywhere in this forest. After searching everywhere, he found lotus flowers inside the holy tank nearby. He took a dip in that waterbody, plucked the lotus flowers and offered the same to Shiv Linga. He named the tank "Pottramarai". It's a Tamil word. It means the tank with the golden lotus flowers.

Even today, the holy tank of the temple is called in the same name. There is also a legend about the origin of this tank.

Pottramarai Tank
Pottramarai Tank (Photo Courtesy - Mr. Veludharan)


In the beginning, even before Indra came into the picture, this incident happened. As there was no tank near the self-manifested Sundareswara (Shiv Linga), Nandi requested Lord Shiva to create a waterbody. Accordingly, Shiva struck the land heavily with his Trishul (trident). The holy tank was born. He also poured down Ganga water from his head and made the tank water more sacred.

As this is the first tank in Madurai, it is named as "Aadi Teertha". This holy waterbody has few other names too such as "Shiva Teertha", "Gnana Teertha", "Shiva Ganga", "Uttama Teertha" and "Mukhti Teertha".

Indra Vimana

Now, let me go back to the previous legend related to Indra.

Indra, who was happy to get rid of his problem, after offering flowers to Shiv Linga, wanted to build a temple for him. He ordered his architect, Viswakarma, to perform the task. The divine architect accordingly built the sanctum and super-structure (vimana) for Shiv Linga. As Indra made this, it is called Indra Vimana. The vimana was designed uniquely. He made the sculptures of eight elephants, 32 lions and 64 Shiv Ganas to hold the vimana.


SouthTower
South Tower


The eight elephants represent those mythological elephants that hold the earth in eight different directions. (Even today, we can find this design. The sanctum and the Linga probably belong to the Pandya's period. But, these elephants were redone in the later period (Nayakas, maybe).)

The connection of the temple with the elephant does not stop here. There is another exciting legend.

Iravat, the white elephant of Indra, once insulted the sage named Durvasa by throwing down the lotus flower offered by him to Indra. This angered the sage and he cursed Iravat. As a result, the white elephant descended to the earth as an ordinary elephant. After spending about 100 years, it came to Kadamba Vanam and worshiped Shiva Linga and regained its original form and status.


The Original Temple

Many years passed away. The forest grew very dense. People completely forgot about Shiv Linga under Indra Vimana.

There was a city named Manavur located to the east of the forest. It was the capital city of Pandya Empire. At that time, Kulasekhara Pandya was ruling. One day, he got a divine dream, in which Lord Shiva advised him to clear the neighboring Kadamba Vanam and build a temple. Meantime, a merchant named Dhananjaya, stayed in the forest for a night. He saw some signs of the temple there. He came to the King and informed about this.


West Tower
West Tower


The King could neither believe nor disregard his dream. He was clueless on how to fulfill the wish of Lord Shiva. Again, Shiva came for his help. He disguised as a Siddha and advised the King on the design and architecture of the temple. (If you are a starter and wonder who is a Siddha - A Siddha is someone who has achieved a high degree of spiritual and physical perfection).

As per the advice of Siddha, the King built a vast temple for Shiva. Kadamba forest got cleared to give way to the city of Madurai. Thus, Kulasekhara Pandya became the founder of Madurai city.

Originally, Indra had built a sanctum. This King extended this with mandapas and other portions. He also made a shrine for Goddess Meenakshi.

The details mentioned above are as given in Tiruvilaiyadal Puranam. The historians do not consider this as part of history. Some of them relate this reference to Sadayavarma Kulasekhara Pandya I (1190-1205 CE). According to them, the original temple was probably built by him as the oldest inscription of the temple belongs to his period.


Malayadhwaja Pandya

What was the period of Kulasekhara Pandya? The answer lies in Mahabharata. It mentions that Lord Krishna conquered Madurai and killed Kulasekhara Pandya.

Kulasekhara's son was Malayadhwaja Pandya (also called as Sarangadhwaja Pandya). He wanted to avenge his father's death. He became more powerful and skillful with the training from Drona, Bhisma, Kripa and Balarama.

West Tower
West Tower


Agastya (a famous sage) and Varuna (the Rain God) helped him to regain his kingdom. Further, they counseled him and changed his mind. He turned a friend of Krishna and sided the Pandavas in the Mahabharata War. Ashwatthama killed him in the battle.

If you wonder how he is related to the history of the temple, read further.

Meenakshi


Kulasekhara Pandya's wife was Kanchana Mala. They had no child for many years. To parent a child, the King planned to perform one hundred Ashwamedha Yagnas. When he completed the 99th yagna, Indra appeared to him. He advised the King to perform Putrakameshti Yagna instead.

Accordingly, the King stopped Ashwamedha Yagna and started Putrakameshti Yagna. As a result, he got a three-year-old girl from the sacred fire. (It was none other than Uma, the consort of Lord Shiva, who was born here). The King named her as Thatathakai . She was also called as Meenakshi, after the presiding Goddess of Madurai temple and Angayarkanni was her Tamil name.

It is something that has never been mentioned by anyone so far. Everyone thinks the temple of Meenakshi was named after this girl, Meenakshi. However, I believe it is the other way round. The girl was named after the Goddess of the temple. Her grandfather built a shrine for Meenakshi, which happened many years before the birth of Meenakshi.


Ashta Shakti Mandapa


The girl was unique as she had three breasts. She grew as a brave and courageous girl. She mastered all warfare skills. After the demise of her father, Meenakshi ruled the Pandya Empire. She defeated all her neighboring Kings. She even invaded heaven and defeated Indra.

When Thatathakai conquered Kailash, she encountered Lord Shiva on the battlefield. On seeing him, her third breast in the middle disappeared and she started blushing. She fell in love with him instantly.

After one week, Shiva came to Madurai and married Thatathakai. As Meenakshi's father was not alive, Vishnu played the role of her brother and did kanyadaan (giving away bride, a symbolic marriage ritual). (This is perhaps the reason why Vishnu is considered as Meenakshi's brother in Madurai and neighborhood. It is also not explicitly mentioned by any other writer so far).

Sundareswara

At the end of the wedding, as per the requests by the sages, Patanjali and Vyagrapada, Shiva performed his divine dance. This scene is depicted in Velli Ambalam (the silver house) shrine in the temple even today.

Shiva started ruling Madurai in the name of Sundareswara or Sundara Panya. He established a township called Naduvoor and built a temple for Shiva, which is named as "Immaiyilum Nanmai Tharuvaar" temple.

Meenakshi and Sundaresha gave birth to Ugravarma Pandya, who is believed to be the incarnation of Skanda or Murugan, the son of Lord Shiva.

Sundaresha's son Ugravarma got married to Kantimati, the daughter of Surya Vamsa King of Manavur, Somasekhara.

Sundaresha gifted three weapons to his son - a spear to control the ocean, a discus kind of circular weapon to defeat Indra and Chendu to defeat Meru Parvat. Then, he crowned his son as the Emperor of the Pandya Empire.

Sundaresha and Meenakshi entered into Madurai temple and merged with the idols of Shiv Linga and Meenakshi, respectively.

Naan Mada Koodal

Varuna got rid of his stomach pain with the grace of Sundaresha, it is said. However, due to some reasons, he turned ungrateful.

Ugravarma's son was Veera Pandya. His son was Abhisheka Pandya. During his reign, Varuna (the Rain God) poured heavily and formed an ocean intending to destroy Madurai. Shiva released four clouds from his matted hair, which absorbed the ocean, thus preventing the city from the flood. Then, Varuna made his clouds to absorb the water from all the oceans across the globe and pour down into Madurai. Shiva's clouds covered the city and prevented the water from coming down. Thus, after protecting the city, they became four mountains in four different directions around the city. Thus the city obtained the name of Naan Maada Koodal.


West Tower


Ellam Valla Siddha

Once, Sundaresha took the form of a Siddha and did a lot of unimaginable things in Madurai. To test Siddha's ascetic power, Abhisheka Pandya asked him to make a stone elephant eat sugarcane. Siddha did this and additionally, he made the elephant swallow the pearl necklace of the King. The King realized his mistake and sought forgiveness. The elephant gave back the pearl necklace to the King and Siddha graced him to beget a son. Everyone understood that Ellam Valla Siddha was none other than Sundaresha.

Abhisheka's son Vikrama Pandya built a shrine for Siddha in Meenakshi temple.

West Tower


Velli Ambalam

Vikrama Pandya's son was Rajasekhara Pandya. He learned Bharatanatyam and after that, once he thought that Nataraja's legs must be paining as he had been standing on a single leg. He requested God to change the position. Nataraja agreed for the same and thus, his idol is still found with his right leg raised instead of the left leg in Velli Ambalam.

Devaram

In the 7th century CE, Tirugnana Sambandhar and Appar visited the site and sang hymns on Shvia. Hence, this temple is a "Devaram Paadal Petra Sthalam".

Sambandhar had composed nine songs and Appar had composed two songs on the deity.

Temple Under the Pandyas

Historically, the oldest inscription in the temple is from Sadaiyavarman Kulasekhara I (1190-1216 CE). There are inscriptions from  Maravarman Sundara Pandya (1216-35 CE), Jatavarma Kulasekhara Pandya (1236-39 CE) and Sadaiyavarman Sundara Pandya (1251-68 CE). Hence, it is evident that they all had contributed to the temple structure.

The oldest structures and few fragments of the temple belong to Sadaiyavarman (Jatavarma) Kulasekhara I's period and nothing that belongs to the earlier period is found. Few historians claim that he must have built the temple. Few fragments of Sundaresa sanctum, Swami Sannadhi Tower, the East Tower and few sub-shrines in the second prakara of Sundaresa are some of the oldest structures built probably during his reign.

The East Tower would have been started by Jatavarma Kulasekhara I towards the end of the 12th century and completed by Jatavarma Sundara Pandya in the second half of the 13th century CE. The Tower is also called as Sundara Pandya Tirukkopuram.

Maravarman Sundara Pandya II (1238-51 CE) enlarged the Sundaresa Shrine and built the outer corridor. He also built a tower called Chitra Gopura (not the current one). The Amman Sannadhi Tower was constructed during his period.


Destruction of the Temple

As mentioned above in one of the sections, Madurai was invaded thrice by Delhi Sultans.

Accordingly, Malik Kafur marched Madurai on 13th April 1311 CE. Without shame, the Pandya brothers fled Madurai. Malik Kafur destroyed all the 14 temple towers and significant portions of Meenakshi temple and plundered the jewels and idols.

As per the legend, Malik Kafur was told that the stone elephant in the temple would eat sugarcane. He wanted to test it. He gave sugarcane to the stone elephant and it actually ate it. It made him leave without further destructing the temple. Thus, the sanctum and the Ardha Mandapa were spared.

During the third invasion in 1323 CE, certain measures were taken by the locals to safeguard the idols of the temple. They raised earth mounds, built a wall and thus closed the sanctum. They installed another Shiv Linga in the Ardha Mandapa to protect the original Linga. They moved the idol of Meenakshi to a secret place in a tower. The processional icons were buried under the ground. The golden icons were taken away to different cities.

Bhikshatana - West Tower



Restoration of the Temple

Kampanna, the son of Vijayanagara King Bukka, invaded Madurai and overthrew the Sultan rule in 1371 CE. He restored the worship in the temple, which was closed for about 50 years. The legend states that when he opened up the sanctum by removing the earth mounds, he astonished to find the lamps still burning and the fresh flowers on Shiv Linga.

New Structures of the Temple

Most of the structures of the current temple were built from the end of the 14th century CE by Vijayanagaras, Vanathirayars, few wealthy Chettiars and importantly by the Nayakas. Among the Nayakas, the significant contributions were from Tirumalai Nayaka and Veerappa Nayaka. Except for the sanctum, very few towers and few other fragments, all other structures were built either during the Vijayanagara period or the Nayaka period.

During the Nayaka period, the vimanas of Sundaresa and Meenakshi shrines were gilded with gold.

There are more than 70 stone inscriptions found in this temple. Few of them belong to the 12th century CE (Pandyas) and the rest of others belong to the later period.

West Tower


Highlights

  • One of the biggest functioning Hindu temples in the world covering an area of about 14 acres. 
  • One of the most important Goddess temples in India.
  • Lord Shiva performed 64 leelas in Madurai, which are recorded as "Tiruvilaiyaadal" (in Tamil)
  • Other Names of Madurai - Aalavai, Naan Maada Koodal, Kadamba Vana Kshetra, Koodal, Kanyakapuram, Samasti Vidya Nagari, Siva Nagaram, Jeevan Mukti Puram
  • God - Sundaresa
  • Goddess - Meenakshi
  • The temple is the first Devaram Paadal Petra Sthalam in the Pandya region
  • The presiding deity, Shiv Linga named as Sundareswara, is self-manifested (swayambhu)
  • It is called as Velli Ambalam or Rachita Sabha; it is one of the five most important shrines of Nataraja
  • It is the birthplace of Murti Nayanar (one of 63 Nayanmars)
  • Few great poets such as Manickavasagar and Nakeerar belonged to this city
  • Other Names of God - Chokkanatha, Tiruvalavayudaiya Nayanar, Chokka Lingam, Sundareshwara, Meenakshi Sundara, Soma Sundara, Kalyana Sundara, Shenbaga Sundara, Kadambavanesa, Abhisheka Chokkar, Maduresa
  • Other Names of Goddess - Tirukkamakkottathu Aaludaiya Nachiar, Angayar Kanni, Tadatakai, Pachai Devi, Maragada Valli, Abhirama Valli, Abhisheka Valli, Kayarkan Kumari, Pandipiratti, Manickavalli, Mummulai Thiru
  • Vruksha (holy tree) - Kadamba
  • Teerth (holy water) - Pottramarai, Vaigai River
  • Vimana - Indra Vimana
  • Important Festivals - Chitrai Festival, Avani Moola Festival, Thai Theppam, Navaratri
  • Almost the entire town is planned around the temple
  • There are 13 towers including one unfinished tower. 
  • It is popularly known as "The Temple Town" and "The City of Festivals"
  • Five big shrines of Nataraja named after Panchantya Sabhas are located in the temple  - Kanaka Sabha (3 bronze idols of Nataraja) in the first prakara of Sundaresa, Ratna Sabha in the first prakara of Sundaresa, Rachita Sabha in Maha Mandap of Sundaresa, Deva Sabha in Hundred Pillars Mandapa and Chitra Sabha in Thousand Pillared Mandapa
  • Paranjoti Munivar authored "Tiruvilaiyadal Purana" in this temple.
  • The temple has a large number of mandapas.
  • 26 different forms of Shiva are found in Kambattadi Mandapa.
  • Four magnificent sculptures, namely Aghora Veerabhadra, Agni Veerabhadra, Kali and Urdhava are found in Kambattadi Mandapa.
  • The female form of Ganesha is found as a relief image in a pillar.
  • 12 feet high gigantic images of Dwarapalas are found at Sundaresa shrine
  • Veerabhadra, Nataraja, Ravana lifting Kailash and Meenakshi divine wedding are commonly found sculptures in mandapas and temple towers.
  • The 8-feet high gigantic image of Mukkuruni Vinayaka is found.
  • Kariyamanicka Perumal Shrine, a supposed to be Vishnu temple, has no original idol now
  • Eight magnificent sculptures of Goddess are found in Ashta Shakti Mandapa
  • The sculptures of ten Nayaka Kings and various deities are found in Pudhu Mandapa
  • Near Mudaliar Mandapa, there is a 25 feet high Tiruvachi which has 1,008 lamps.
  • In Meenakshi Pillai Mandapa, there are 110 22-feet high pillars found in six rows. Each pillar bears a big statue of Yazhi, the mythological animal.
  • Similar to the temple, the holy tank is also huge. It spreads around one acre.
  • There are 28 richly carved pillars with beautiful life-sized images of various epic characters and Yazhis in Kilikkoondu Mandapa.
  • Thousand pillared mandapa has the most beautiful sculptures of the temple.
  • Musical pillars are found in two places in this temple.
Ekapada Murti - West Tower


Literature


Madurai Kanchi, a Sangam period text, refers to the presiding deity indirectly as "Thenmugak Kadavul". Similarly, the famous Silappadhikaram also indirectly mentions this temple.

Narasimha and Sharbeswara - West Tower
Narasimha and Sharbeswara - West Tower


Tirugnana Sambandhar has sung the glory of the temple in Devaram (7th century CE). It is said that he had visited Madurai based on the requests from Pandya Queen Mangaiyarkkarasi and Minister Kulachchiraiyaar. In that period, Jainism was prevailing in the entire Pandya region. Even the Pandya King Arikesari Maravarman (who was known as "Koon Pandya") practiced Jainism. Sambandhar converted him into Shaivism. 

Manickavasagar, the great saint and poet of the 9th century CE, who served as a Minister in Pandya Kingdom, had mentioned about Madurai in his Tiruvasagam.

Tiruvilaiyadal


It is said that Lord Shiva performed 64 leelas (actions and antics) in Madurai. These leelas are called as Tiruvilaiyadal in Tamil language. All these leelas are recorded in various Sanskrit and Tamil texts.

Halasya Mahatmya is a Sanskrit work that talks about Shiva's leelas. Based on this text, Paranjoti wrote Tiruvilaiyadal Puranam in Tamil in the 17th century CE. This is the most popular text about Shiva's Leelas.

Sarasamuccayam, in Sanskrit, was the base for Perumbarrappuliyur Nambi to write his version of Tiruvilaiyadal in the 12th or 13th century CE.

There are many such Sanskrit and Tamil texts such as Devaram, Kalladam, Madurai Kalambakam and Sundara Pandyam that elaborately or briefly talk about Shiva's leelas.

Many legends that are mentioned under various titles in this article are based on Paranjoti's Tiruvilaiyadal Puranam.

West Tower


Temple Layout


Everyone who travels to Madurai perhaps visits Meenakshi Temple for sure. But, everyone who visits the magnificent temple may not visit it thoroughly. It is such a huge temple that spreads around 609,000 square feet or 14 acres. There are multiple entrances, many towers, a lot of shrines, mandaps and other structures. It is easy for anyone to get confused with the temple layout. Let me try to simplify the temple layout and architecture in the next few paragraphs.

The temple is rectangular in plan. From north to south, it measures 792 feet and from east to west, it measures 852 feet. This measurement does not include a few mandapas and other structures that lie outside the compound walls of the temple. Technically, those structures are also part of the temple. 


West Tower


Although there are entrances with tall towers found in all the four directions, the eastern side entrance is considered as the main entrance. 

The temple has two sanctums, the sanctum of Sundareswara (Shiv Linga) and Meenakshi (Goddess). Both the shrines face the eastern direction and both are given equal prominence. Meenakshi's shrine is located to the southwest of Sundaresa's shrine.

Besides these two sanctums, the Golden Lotus Tank (Pottramarai) is another prominent site in the temple. It lies to the east of the Meenakshi sanctum. 


West Tower


The temple is located in the center of the city. Parallel to each side of the temple, four parallel roads are running. Thus, there is a total of 16 main roads that surround the temple in all four directions. Each set of trails is named after an auspicious Tamil calendar month - Aadi, Chitrai, Avani and Masi. Based on the direction, each road is named with the combination of direction and the month, such as East Chitrai Veedi, West Masi Veedi, North Avani Veedi and so on. (The word "Veedi" denotes road.)

The first set of four roads that are located within the temple compound are named Aadi Veedis. Running along with the temple compound, there are Chitrai Veedis. On the outer periphery, there are Avani Moola Veedis. Masi Veedis surround them, thus the temple is surrounded by 16 broad roads, four roads each side.

Explaining the layout and architecture of such a big temple is not an easy task. It is challenging to decide where to start with and how to proceed further. After thinking a lot on how to organize the content so that the readers find it easy to follow, I have classified this section into four main categories - Towers, Meenakshi Shrine, Sundaresa Shrine and Other Parts. Let me begin with the Towers first.

Gayatri - West Tower


Towers


1) East Tower

There are four outer towers (gopurams) and the eastern tower is the main one (Raja Gopuram). It is located on East Chitrai Street. Out of all surviving towers, this tower is the oldest one.

The base is a stone structure and it has two tiers. It is 111 feet long and 65 feet wide.

The superstructure is made of brick and it has nine talas (tiers). The 153 feet high tower has 1,011 stucco images.  Most of the original images have been replaced with the new images.

Some interesting stucco images on the tower include Ravana trying to lift Kailash and Vishnu in different forms with the folded hands in front of Shiva.

East Tower


The oldest inscription in the entire temple complex is found in the second tier of this tower. This inscription is even older than the tower. It belonged to the second year of Sadaiyavarman Kulasekhara I's reign(1190-1216 CE). There are three more inscriptions found here. Two belong to the 10th and 15th years of the reign of  Maravarman Sundara Pandya (1216-35 CE). Another inscription belongs to the second year rule of  Jatavarma Kulasekhara Pandya (1236-39 CE).

There are two inscriptions found inside the entrance of the tower. They belong to the period of Sadaiyavarman Sundara Pandya (1251-68 CE). One of the inscriptions calls this tower as "Sundra Pandian Tirukkopuram".

Based on these inscriptions, we can assume that the construction of the tower was started in the 12th century CE by Sadaiyavarman Kulasekhara I and completed in the 13th century CE by  Sadaiyavarman Sundara Pandya. Sundara Pandya was one of the most powerful Pandya Rulers. The Cholas rule came to an end during his time. He had defeated Kopperunchingan and Bosalas. He had contributed gold for Srirangam Temple Vimana.

The shrines of Madurai Veeran with his consorts Bommi and Vellaiyammal and Karuppanna Swami are found at the outer entrance of the tower.

2) South Tower


The South Tower was built by Siramalai Chevvandi Chettiar in 1478 CE. This tower has a lot more impressive stucco images compared to the other three outer towers. It is located on South Chitrai Street.

Veerabhadra - South Tower

The stone base has two tiers and the brick superstructure has nine talas (tiers). The wall pilasters have the Vijayanagara style squatting lions at the base. It was originally called "Paniyarakkadai Gopura", probably to denote that it was built by a merchant.

The 170 feet high tower has 1,511 sculptures. The base is 108 feet long and 67 feet wide.

18 armed Veerabhadra, Subramanya seated on the elephant, 10 armed Nataraja, Kali competing with Nataraja in dance, 18 armed Veerabhadra in a different posture, 10 headed and 20 armed Subramanya,  16 armed Veerabhadra, Encounter between Meenakshi and Shiva, Meenakshi getting married to Sundareswara, Maha Sada Shiva Murti, Vallabha Ganapati - these are some of the rare and interesting stucco images that are found in this tower. Few images that were replaced in recent times do not look great.

South Tower

3) West Tower


The West Tower, located at West Chitrai Street is one of the oldest surviving structures of the temple. It was built by Parakrama Pandya in 1323 CE, which is probably a few months before the last Islamic invasion. There is an inscription in this tower that talks about the glory of this King.

It has a stone base and brick superstructure with nine tiers. The height of the tower is 154 feet and 6 inches and the width is 63 feet and 6 inches. The length of the base is 101 feet. There is a total of 1,124 stucco images in this gigantic tower.

West Tower
West Tower


Some of the notable images include Ekapada Murti, Bhikshatana, 10-armed Nataraja, 12-armed Kali, Ravana lifting up Kailasa, Rishabaruda Murti, Sada Shiva and five-headed Gayatri. The Dwarapalas (guards) of the ninth tier have 14 arms; on the eighth tier, the Dwarapalas have 10 arms; on the other seven tiers, the Dwarapalas have eight arms each. Interestingly, there are many Vaishnava images too found in this tower.

The entire scene of the churning of the milky ocean is depicted on the interior side of the tower. There are few sculptures in animation that tell us some mythological stories. An excellent example is the group of sculptures having Narasimha chasing the Asura first, Narasimha killing him as the second scene and Sharbeswara killing Narasimha as the third scene. Two moderately sized elephant statues are found on both interior sides of the tower.

West Tower
West Tower


4) North Tower

The North Tower, located at North Chitrai Street, was built by Krishna Veerappa Nayaka, the grandson of Vishwanatha Nayaka, in 1572 CE.

It has a two-tiered stone base and brick superstructure with nine tiers. The height of the tower is 152 feet and the width is 66 feet and 6 inches. The length of the base is 111 feet and 6 inches. There is a total of 404 stucco images in this gigantic tower.

North Tower


The tower did not have a roof and shikhara initially. It remained as an incomplete tower and hence it was called by the public as "Mottai Gopuram", meaning tonsured headed tower. Towards the end of the 19th century CE, the Nattukkottai Chettiar community people completed the construction of the remaining part of the tower.

The five musical pillars, each consisting of 22 smaller pillars, carved out of a single stone and producing different musical notes when struck, is a major attraction. They are located at the base of the tower.

A small shrine for Mottai Gopura Muni is found at the outer entrance.

North Tower


5) Raya Gopura

Raya Gopuram is an unfinished tower located to the east of the East Outer Tower. The exact location is behind the big Nandi statue at East Avani Moola Street. It was built by Tirumalai Nayaka in the middle of the 17th century CE. Had this been completed, it would have become the tallest tower of Madurai. Why talk only about Madurai? It would have been one of the tallest towers across the entire nation.

Raya Gopura


The size of the base is almost twice that of the East Tower. The sculptures of Tirumalai Nayaka with his queens and the coronation of Meenakshi are found on the walls. The massive pillars are around 50 feet high. Unfortunately, this remains one of the neglected sites of the city. To add more pity, it has encroachments and even the Corporation had built shops and rented them out.

A big white-colored Nandi statue is found in front of Raya Gopuram.

Nandi near Raya Gopura



6) Chitra Gopura

As mentioned already, there are two sanctums in this temple, the sanctum for Sundareswara and the sanctum for Meenakshi. The Outer East Tower is axially in front of Sundaresa sanctum. For Meenakshi, there is no such outer tower. However, there is an inner tower, which is called as Chitra Gopuram. It is a seven-tiered tower. This tower can be viewed well from Pottramarai tank. The base stone structure of the tower was built by Kalathi Mudali in 1569/1570 CE. The brick superstructure was built by Krishna Veerappa (1572 - 1595 CE), the grandson of Vishwanatha Nayaka.

There are 730 stucco images in this tower. The base is 78 feet long and 38 feet wide. With a height of 177 feet, this is the tallest tower of the temple. Many books, sites and guides wrongly mention the South Outer Tower as the tallest.

7) Gopuranayaka Gopura

In addition to the outer tower, there is an inner East Tower for Sundareswara. It is a five-tiered tower. It is 66 feet high with the 42 feet long and 33 feet wide base.

It has few compelling stucco images such as Narasimha, Sharbeswara, Manmadha seated on parrot, Bhairava, Veenadhara Dakshinamurti, Gajasamhara Murti, Ekapada Murti, Meenakshi divine wedding and Ravana lifting Kailasa. Visvappa built this tower during the reign of Acyuta Raya, the Vijayanagara King in the first half of the 16th century CE.

8) Nadukkattu Gopuram

The passage that connects the Sundareswara shrine with that of Meenakshi shrine has a five-tiered tower. It is named as Nadukkattu Gopuram. The famous Mukkuruni Vinayaka shrine is located nearby. The stone ceilings of the mandapa obstruct the view of this tower. It can be viewed to some extent from Pottramarai tank. It was built by Siramalai Chevvandi Murti in 1559 CE. The height of the tower is 69 feet, the length is 44 feet and the width is 33 feet. There are a total of 112 stucco images on this tower.


9) Kadaka Gopura

Kadaka Gopura, which is also called Amman Gopuram, is the western tower of Meenakshi shrine. It is located at West Aadi Street within the temple compound. The stone base can be dated to the 13th or 14th century CE based on the architectural features such as the presence of Ganas and Vyalavaris. Veera Tummaci built the five-tiered brick superstructure in 1570 CE.

The height of the tower is 64 feet and 6 inches. The base length is 50 feet and the width is 28 feet and 6 inches. There are a total of 228 stucco images in this tower.

There are many interesting sculptures found. Meenakshi and Sundaresa's divine wedding and Ravana lifting Kailasa are two icons that are found in the other towers. In fact, there are two different depictions of Meenakshi wedding here. Five-headed Gayatri and five-headed Sadashiva are found. Elephant worshiping Shiva and a King worshiping Shiva are unique sculptures of the tower. Similar to Somaskanda form, Ganesha instead of Skanda between Shiva and Shakti, is found in the sculpture. Brahmi, Saraswati and Shiva holding a mythical animal in his arm are few other interesting images of the tower.

10) Paalaka Gopura

Paalaka Gopura is the western tower of Sundaresha shrine. It is located at West Aadi Street within the temple compound. This 72 feet high five-tiered tower was built by Mallappan in 1374 CE.

There are too many unique and interesting stucco images found in this tower. Ganesha instead of Skanda between Shiva and Shakti (similar to Somaskanda form), 10-armed Bhairava, 10-armed Nataraja raising his right leg towards sky, Shiva seated on Nandi fighting with Meenakshi holding a bow and seated on a lion, Meenakshi holding a bow and seated on a lion encountering Shiva seated on a mythical animal, Shiva holding a bow, Vishnu holding a bow, eight-armed Bhairava, 10-armed Bhairava in a different posture, a crane worshiping Shiva, Goddess seated on the lap of Shiva, Yoga Murti, Brahma with his two consorts, Shiva seated on Nandi encountering Meenakshi seated on Nandi, Shiva seated on a horse encountering Meenakshi seated on a horse, a sage along with a boar and Shiva kicking off Yama to protect Markandeya are some of the notable stucco images in the tower.

11) Chinna Mottai Gopuram

The five-tiered tower is on the northern side of Sundaresa shrine. It was built by Sevvandi Velan in 1560 CE. There are not many sculptures in this tower. Few Ganesha and Subramanya stucco images alone are found. There are hardly 18 in number. It is a 71 feet high tower with a 45 feet long and 34 feet wide base.

I am sure Chinnai Mottai Gopuram is not the original name, but I could not find any reference about the same.


12) Amman Sannadhi Gopuram

The three-tiered tower above the passage that connects the Kilikkoondu Mandapa and the sanctum of Meenakshi lies hidden by the other structures. It was built by Anandatandava Nambi in 1228 CE. He belonged to the family of Perumarrapuliyur Nambi, who wrote the "Tiruvavudaiyar Tiruvilaiyadal". As he belonged to Vembathur, the tower is also known as Vembathur Tower.

There are 476 sculptures in this 40 feet high tower with the base 27 feet long and 20 feet wide.

13) Swami Sannadhi Gopuram

The three-tiered 41 feet high tower above the entrance of the sanctum of Sundaresa lies hidden by the other structures. It might belong to the 12th or 13th century CE. There is a possibility that it was also built by Kulasekhara Pandya in the second half of the 12th century CE.

Conclusion

Thus, there are a total of 13 towers in Meenakshi Sundaresa Temple. The number is given wrongly in most of the source materials. For better understanding and visualization of the readers, let me summarize about the location of all these towers here.

Sundaresa sanctum faces the east direction. At the entrance of the inner corridor (prakara), there is Swami Sannadhi Gopuram. The shrine includes the sanctum, prakaras and other mandapas. The shrine has three towers Chinna Mottai Gopuram on the northern side, Paalaka Gopura on the western side and Gopuranayaka Gopura on the eastern side.

Meenakshi's sanctum faces the east direction to the right of Sundaresa's shrine. At the entrance of the sanctum, there is Amman Sannadhi Gopuram. The shrine includes the sanctum, prakaras and other mandapas. The shrine has two towers, Kadaka Gopura on the western side and Chitra Gopura on the eastern side.

The area that joins both the sanctums has Nadukkattu Gopuram. The larger area that covers both the shrines has four towers on the four directions. Besides, there is an unfinished tower to the east of the East Tower. It is Raya Gopura.

North Tower


The list of towers based on their height (from the largest to the smallest):

1) Chitra Gopura - 177 feet
2) South Tower - 170 feet
3) West Tower - 154 feet 6 inches
4) East Tower - 153 feet
5) North Tower - 152 feet
6) Paalaka Gopura - 72 feet
7) Chinna Mottai Gopura - 71 feet
8) Nadukkattu Gopuram - 69 feet
9) Gopuranayaka Gopura - 66 feet
10) Kadaka Gopura - 64 feet 6 inches
11) Raya Gopura - 50 feet
12) Swami Sannadhi Gopura - 41 feet
13) Amman Sannadhi Gopura - 40 feet

North Tower



The list of towers based on their age (from the oldest to the latest):

1) East Tower - 12th or 13th century
2) Swami Sannadhi Gopura - 12th or 13th century
3) Amman Sannadhi Gopura - 1228 CE
4) Kadaka Gopura - 13th or 14th century
5) West Tower - 1323 CE
6) Paalaka Gopura - 1374 CE
7) South Tower - 1478 CE
8) Nadukkattu Gopuram - 1559 CE
9) Chinna Mottai Gopura - 1560 CE
10) Chitra Gopura - 1570 CE
11) North Tower - 1572 CE
12) Gopuranayaka Gopura - 16th century
13) Raya Gopura - 17th century

Meenakshi Shrine


Meenakshi's Shrine is facing the east direction. It is located on the southwest side of Sundaresa's Shrine and is smaller than the latter.

It has the sanctum (garbha griha or moolasthana) in the middle. In front of the sanctum, there are ardha mandapa, maha mandapa and Aaru kaal mandapa. There are two prakaras (circumambulation) around the sanctum. There are many sub-shrines, sculptures and panels found in these prakaras.

The shrine has two towers, namely Amman Sannadhi Gopuram on the east and Kadaka Gopura on the west.

(Chitra Gopura and Ashta Shakti Entrance also belong to Meenakshi. However, they are located outside the boundary of Meenakshi's Shrine. This section exclusively covers only till Amman Sannadhi Gopuram and not anything outside.)

Meenakshi

Meenakshi is found in an east-facing sanctum. The beautiful icon of moderate height depicts her in the standing posture. She has two arms, unlike the other temple where usually the Goddess is found with four arms. She holds a flower in her right arm. A parrot is seen standing on the flower.

The architectural features indicate that the current structure could have been built in the 15th century CE by the Vijayanagaras.

The outer walls of the sanctum have Itcha Shakti, Gnana Shakti and Kriya Shakti as the niche images.

The vimana, is covered with gold-coated plates. This can be viewed from Pottramarai tank.

Other Mandapas

In front of the sanctum, ardha mandapa, maha mandapa and Aaru kaal mandapa are found.

In Maha Mandapa, Nandi is found facing towards Meenakshi's sanctum. The golden flagstaff is also situated here. It was done by Tirumalai Nayaka.

At the entrance of Ardha Mandapa, two big Dwarapalas and the relief images of Ganesha and Murugan are found.

Six Pillared Mandapa


It is called Aarukaal Mandapam in Tamil, which means the mandapa with six pillars. It was constructed in 1452 CE by Maavali.

It is a historic site. The ceremony of handing over the staff to the Nayaka Kings when they took the oath was always held here. Kumaragurupara, the ascetic and poet of the 17th century CE, authored "Meenakshi Pillai Tamil" in this mandapa.

The copper sculptures of Dwarapalas are known for their artistic beauty. They were donated by Tirumalai Nayak.

The relief images of Ganesha and Kartikeya are embedded at the entrance.

The outer walls have the relief images that depict the legends of Madurai.

First Prakara around Meenakshi's Shrine


The sub-shrines of Irattai Ganapati (two Ganeshas), Uchchistha Ganapati with his consorts and Muthukumara are located in the first prakara around Meenakshi's sanctum. Nritya Ganapati is found in the shrine of Uchchistha Ganapati. 

Palliyarai (bed chamber) is too located here. It was built by Maavali in 1452 CE.

Chandikeshawari is found in a small south-facing sub-shrine.

Pillar of Raya Gopura


Second Prakara around Meenakshi's Shrine


The first prakara is around the sanctum. The second prakara is around the entire structure that includes the sanctum, Ardha Mandapa, Maha Mandapa and Aarukkaal Mandapa.

This prakara is full of big pillars having Yazhis (the mythological animals), Nayaka Kings or other life-sized sculptures. The top portions of the pillars have the squatting lions. 

The Kolu Mandapa where the Kolu dolls would be displayed during Navaratri times is located here.

At the northeastern corner, the sub-shrine of Koodal Kumara is situated. Arunagirinathar had sung three songs in Tiruppugazh on this Murti. A sculpture of Ganesha is found at the entrance of the sub-shrine.

The life-sized stucco statues of Tirumalai Nayaka along with his two wives are located at the southeast corner.

Ravana lifting Kailasha - Pudhu Mandapa


The sub-shrines of Tirumalai Ganapati, Kooda Linga, Arunagirinathar and Kooda Kumara are located in this prakara.

Outside the south wall of this prakara, Chevvandeeswarar shrine is found. It was constructed in 1564 CE by Chevvandi Moorti Chetti. A mandapa with few life-sized sculptures (similar to that of Killikkoondu Mandapa) are situated here. As the temple office is located here, visitors are not allowed.

The east side entrance connects this prakara with the Kilikkoondu Mandapa. Amman Sannadhi Tower is located there. The bali peetham is located in Kilikkoondu Mandapa facing towards Meenakshi.

The west side entrance takes us to West Aadi Street. There, Kadaka Gopura is located. The north side entrance connects Meenakshi Shrine with Sundaresa Shrine.

As I have already covered the towers in detail in an earlier section, those details are skipped in this section.

Sundareswara Shrine


Sundareswara's Shrine is facing the east direction. It is located on the true left side of Meenakshi's Shrine and is larger than the latter.

It has the sanctum (garbha griha or moolasthana) in the middle. In front of the sanctum, there are antarala, ardha mandapa, maha mandapa, mukha mandapa and Aaru kaal mandapa. There are two wide prakaras (circumambulation) around these mandapas. There are many sub-shrines, sculptures and panels found in these prakaras.

The shrine has three towers, namely Swami Sannadhi Gopuram on the east, Chinna Mottai Gopuram on the north and Paalaka Gopura on the west. There is another tower, named Gopuranayaka Gopura on the east side past the outer prakara.


Sundareswara

It is believed that Sundareswara (also called as Chokkanatha and Sundaresha) is a self-manifested Shiv Linga. He is found in an east-facing sanctum, which is square in shape. It is a moderately sized Linga.

Manonmani, the bronze idol of Goddess, is found in the northwest corner of the sanctum. (As per Agamas (temple rules) Shiva Linga should always be accompanied by a Goddess. The metal icon which is usually found along with Shiv Linga in the sanctum is called as Bhoga Shakti).

Although it is widely agreed that the sanctum was not damaged during the Muslim invasions, it is evidently restored and repaired multiple times. Only a few fragments could be dated to the Pandya period (13th century CE). Everything else appears to be the later period.

There is a high possibility that the sanctum had four entrances in all the four directions originally. Now, however, there is only an east-facing entrance.

Eight Elephants

Indra, the Lord of Devas, built the vimana (sanctum and the superstructure). The outer wall of the sanctum has engravings of 64 Bhuta Ganas, 32 small lions and eight big white elephants. The current sculptures of the elephants belong to the later period. Probably, the original sculptures were replaced due to some reasons.

The realistically looking ten feet high elephants are found in all the four directions. While six elephants are found on the exterior walls in three directions, the elephants facing the east side can be found at the entrance of the sanctum in Ardha Mandapa. All these eight elephants are called Ashta Dig Gajas, which are holding the earth. In this temple, they hold vimana.

The elephants on the east side, which can be seen from the Ardha Mandapa are known as Iravata (east) and Pundarika (south-east). The elephants on the southern exterior wall near Dakshinamurti are known as Vamana (south) and Kumuta (south-east). The elephants on the western exterior wall near Lingodbhava are Anjana (west) and Pushpadanta (north-east). The elephants on the northside near Durga are called Sarvabhooma (north) and Supradipa (northeast).

The vimana, which is named as Indra Vimana, is covered with gold-coated plates. The Vimana can be viewed well from Pottramarai tank.

Indra Vimana (Photo courtesy - Mr. Rajendran Ganesan)


Koshta Deities

In the niches (Koshtams) around the sanctum, Dakshinamurti, Lingodhbava and Vishnu Durga are found. In Lingodbhava panel, Brahma is generally depicted as the bird. However, here he is found in his personified form near the head of Lingodbhava. In addition, he and Vishnu, in Anjali mudra (folded hands) are found near the foot of the Lord. All these images are large in size.

A big and beautiful idol of Chandikeshwara is found in a small south-facing sub-shrine near Durga's image. There is one more sub-shrine nearby which enshrines Ellam Valla Siddhar. He is the Siddha form of Lord Shiva. More details about this Siddha has already been provided in earlier sections. A small stump representing the Sthala vruksha, Kadamba tree, is found nearby.


Other Mandapas

The Garbha Griha connects the Ardha Mandapa with a narrow antarala. There is a mukha mandapa in front of the ardha mandapa. The doorway of ardha mandapa has Gaja Lakshmi panel on the lintel. The big and beautiful Dwarapalas are found on either side of the mukha mandapa entrance. Also, Vallabha Ganapati and Subramanya seated on peacock are also found at the entrance.

In front of the mukha mandapa, there is a large maha mandapa, measuring 55 feet in width and 85 feet in length. The exterior walls of Maha mandapa are decorated with many stucco panels illustrating the legends from Tiruvilaiyadal Puranam.

In front of the maha mandapa, there is Aarukal Mandapa. The six pillared mandapa is believed to be the site where Paranjoti Munivar authored Tiruvilaiyadal Puranam.

The outer walls of the mandapas have the relief images that depict all the Tiruvilaiyadal stories.

Sabhapati Shrine

The north side of maha mandapa has Sabhapati Shrine. This is one of the most popular shrines of Nataraja (Shiva in the dancing posture). Here, the idols of Nataraja, his consort Sivakami, the sages Vyagrapada and Patanjali are found. It is called as Velli Ambalam. The idol of Nataraja is very large and is six feet high. The ten-armed Nataraja is in the dancing form but in unusual posture by having his right leg instead of left leg, raised up. The entire idol is covered with a silver sheet.

Big bronze idols representing Nataraja and Sivakami are also found here.

This shrine is one of the five important shrines of Nataraja across the globe. It is called as Rachita Sabha in Sanskrit and Velli Ambalam in Tamil. His dance form here is called as Sandhya Tandava.

(The five important shrines are called Pancantya Sabhas. The other four shrines of Nataraja and his dance forms - Tiruvalangadu Ratna Sabha Kali Tandava, Chidambaram Porsabhai (Kanaka Sabha) Ananda Tandava, Nellai Tamra Sabha Muni Tandava and Courtallam Chitra Sabha Tirupura Tandava).

First Prakara around Sundaresa's Shrine


The sculptures of Adhikara Nandi and Chamundi are found at the inner entrance of the passage under Swami Sannadhi Gopuram. Both of them face towards the sanctum of Sundareswara.

Similarly, the big statues of the sages Vyagrapada and Patanjali are also found facing the sanctum.

The prakara around Sudnaresa has many sculptures and sub-shrines. Some of the sculptures are listed down:
  • Vandiyammai (a devotee of Shva) and Shiv Linga
  • Shiv Linga with Uma (small images)
  • Shiv Linga with Uma (another set of small images)
  • Shiv Linga
  • Surya with his two consorts (big images)
  • Sekkizhar
  • Meenakshi and Sundaresa Linga
  • 63 Nayanmars and 9 Thogaiyadiyaargals
  • Ganesha
  • Uppu Linga
  • Sahasra Linga (very big)
  • Ekadasa Linga (very big)
  • Shodasa Linga
  • Akasha Linga
  • Meikkanda Sivam
  • Arunandi Sivam
  • Maraignana Sivam
  • Umapati Sivam
  • Veerabhadra
  • Sapta Matas
  • Ganesha (big)
  • Jwarreswara (two in number)
  • Jwara Linga
  • 51 Shiv Lingas together called as Akshara Linga
  • Chandra with Karthika and Rohini (big images)
  • Bhuva Linga
  • Nrithi Linga
  • Bronze icons of 63 Nayanmars
Nandi near Raya Gopura

The sub-shrines that are found in the prakara include:

  • Saraswati
  • Two bronze icons of Subramanya and his two consorts
  • Somaskanda bronze; the bronze images of Chokkanatha and Meenakshi are also located in the same shrine
  • Shiv Linga and Uma
  • Panchamukha Linga
  • Ganesha
  • Muthu Skanda (three pairs of Skanda and his consorts)
  • Sundara Mahalinga and Uma (Ganesha and peacock-seated Murugan at the entrance)
  • Bhikshatana (very big and beautiful) (Small icon of Visvaksena is found on Bhikshatana's trishul; along with Bhikshatana, four Rishi Patnis and Gundodara are found; all are very big images and beautiful)
  • Kasi Vishwanatha Linga, Vishalakshi, Nandi, Ganesha, Skanda (north Indian style images)
  • Nine small Lingas together
  • Sthala vruksha covered with silver sheet
  • Kanaka Sabha shrine (3 big Nataraja and Sivakami bronze images are found)
  • Ashta Lingas
  • Maha Lakshmi

A big sub-shrine called Ratna Sabha for the big bronze image of Natraja and Sivakami with a front-side mandapa is a notable one. Adjacent to this sub-shrine, Pottradiyan sub-shrine is located. The place where the original Sthala Vruksha (Vanni tree) is represented by a small wood and Shiv Linga called Kinattru Lingam (literally means Well Linga; there is a legend that talks about a female proving her innocence keeping this well and tree as the evidence).

As mentioned in an earlier section, in order to safeguard the presiding deity from the invaders, a new Shiv Linga was reportedly installed in Ardha Mandapa. That Shiv Linga in a damaged condition is still found here.

Madura Nayakar shrine has the utsava idol of Sundareswara. It is located on the southern corridor.

The east side entrance connects this prakara with the Kambattadi Mandapa in the second (outer) prakara (corridor). Swami Sannadhi Tower is located there.

As I have already covered the towers in detail in an earlier section, those details are skipped in this section.

Kambattadi Mandapa


The outer (second) corridor around Swami Shrine is huge. Hence, this is not covered in a single sub-section. Let me describe all elements of this prakara one by one in multiple sub-sections.

Sometimes, I wonder if it is humanly possible to count the number of Mandapas in Meenakshi temple. Out of all those mandaps, four mandapas are prominent, namely, Pudhu Mandapa, Thousand Pillared Mandapa, Kilikkoondu Mandapa and Kambattadi Mandapa. This sub-section talks in detail about Kambattadi Mandapa

Kambattadi Mandapa is located between Swami Sannadhi Tower and Gopuranayaka Gopura on the east side of the second prakara around Sundaresa Shrine. It is known in various names such as Kodikkambha Mandapa, Dhwajasthambha Mandapa and Sundaresvara Mandapa.

The gigantic Dwarapala (Photo courtesy - Mr. Rajendran Ganesan)


The enclosure in the center of the mandapa has Nandi, two flagstaffs and two bali peethas facing towards Sundaresa Shrine. One bali peetha and a flagstaff are very large in size. They are surrounded by eight magnificent pillars. Each of these monolithic pillars is adorned with artistically carved sculptures of Lord Shiva in various forms. The flagstaffs are gold plated. Nandi is huge and is an almost life-sized sculpture. 

As per the inscription found on one of the pillars, Kambattadi Mandpa was built by Krishna Veerappa Nayaka in 1584 CE. Nandi Mandapa along with the monolithic pillars were built by Nattukkottai Chettis in 1870s CE. 

The list of beautiful sculptures found on the eight pillars of Nandi Mandapa:

1) The Divine Wedding - Vishnu is pouring down the water from a small pot and performing kannikadaan as a brother of Meenakshi; Shiva's (Sundaresa) right arm is holding the right arm of Meenakshi. It is the wedding scene of Meenakshi and Sundaresa. This wedding scene is depicted in various mandapas and towers across the temple. But, the sculpture in this mandapa is the best among all of them. Brahma is found performing homa (holy fire) and two women ae found helping. Behind the trio, Kalpa Vruksha is found. The other three sides of the pillar have the images of Tripurari, Devi and Somasundara.

2) Tripura Samharar - Shiva is found seated on a chariot with his bow and arrow. Brahma is driving the chariot. The images of three Tripura Asuras are sculpted in the pillar found in the opposite direction.

3) Somasundara - Shiva and Uma seated together; Uma is found to the left of Shiva; her right leg is bent and the left leg is hanging down. It is typical Uma Sahita Murti, although labeled as Somasundara. 

4) Sukhasana - Shiva and Uma seated together; Uma is found to the left of Shiva; she holds a flower in her right arm; Shiva has four arms; his upper arms hold trishula and akshamala; his lower arms are in abhaya and varada mudras. The small images of Narasimha, Varaha and Matsya are found in the bottom portion of the pillar.

5) Kalaharamurti - Shiva has four arms and is found in a ferocious form. His upper right arm holds Trishula pointing down and the lower right arm holds axe; his left arms hold deer and skull. His right leg is placed on Linga pitha and his left leg is placed on the neck of Kala (Yama - the Lord of death); The great devotee, Markandeya, who is being saved by Shiva from the clutches of Yama is also found as the adjacent image.


6) Nataraja- Shiva is in the dancing form; his left leg is raised upwards and his right leg rests on Apasmaara (who is also called Muyalaka, the dwarf who represents ignorance). Shiva has jata makuta; he has four arms; his upper arm holds Agni (fire); his lower left arm is in Gaja hasta posture (resembling the trunk of an elephant); his upper right arm holds damaru; his lower right arm is in abhaya mudra. Sivakami is found on the left side of Nataraja. Nandi with four arms playing the drum along with Vygrapada and Patanjali is seen below; the adjacent faces of the pillar have the images of Vishnu and Brahma playing some musical instruments; Narada and Tumburu singing. Kali is also seen.

7) Chandrashekhara -  Shiva and Uma are in the standing posture. Adhikara Nandi is found below.


8) Rishabhantika -  Shiva and Uma are seated on Nandi (Rishabha). Nandi's head is lifted slightly up as though looking at Shiva.

9) Lingodbhava -  Shiva in the middle of Linga form where his leg or upper portion of the head are not seen; a swan with the head and arms of Brahma is seen above; Varaha near the feet of Shiva. In addition, Vishnu and Brahma are also seen in Anjali mudras.

10) Ravana Anugraha Murti -   Ten-headed Ravans is trying to lift Kailas and above the mount, Shiva and Uma are seated. In between them, Ganesha is found. Several sages are around.

11) Kama Dahana Murti -   Shiva is found seated.

12) Vishnu Anugraha Murti -  Shiva is presenting discus to Vishnu. Uma is seated next to Shiva.

13) Rishabha Vahana Murti -  Shiva and Uma are seated on Nandi.

14) Ekapada Murti -  Shiva alone is found with a single leg. Usually, Brahma and Vishnu are also shown along with Shiva in this form.

15) Ardha Nari -  It is half-Uma and half-Shiva form of Shiva. Shiva has two arms and Uma has one arm.

16) Hari Hara -  It is half-Shiva and half-Vishnu form.

17) Dakshinamurti -  It is a form of Shiva seated under a banyan tree and is surrounded by sages.

18) Gajahara -  Shiva is found with eight arms. His upper arms hold the hide of the elephant killed by him. His other arms hold axe, trishula, arrow, bow, skull and deer. The left leg rests on the elephant's head and the right leg rests on the hide of the elephant. The sages in the act of adoration are depicted below. The terrified Uma carrying her child Skanda is depicted on the other face of the pillar.

19) Chandesa Anugraha Murti -  Shiva is tying a garland to Chandikeshwara.

20) Bhikshatana -  Shiva is found in the standing posture with only a snake coiled around him.

21) Veerabhadra -  Shiva is found in the standing posture; he has 10 arms.

22) Rudra -  Rudra is holding his trishul which is piercing the neck of an Asura.

23) Kirata Arjuna Murti -  Shiva along with Arjuna is found here. Arjuna holds a bow and arrow.

24) Somaskanda -  Shiva and Uma seated in Sukhasana posture with the baby Skanda in-between. Skanda, wearing a karanda makuta, has flowers on both sides; he is also found in a dancing pose. The small images of Rama, Krishna and Balarama are found in the bottom portion of the pillar.

25) Kamadahana -  Shiva is found seated and burning Kama with this third eye.

26) Jalandara Anugraha Murti -  Jalandara is found below the feet of Shiva.

The above-mentioned beautiful sculptures are of moderate size and they are found around Nandi Mandapa. In addition, there are few more exquisitely carved bigger sculptures found in Kambattadi Mandapa, which belong to the Nayaka period.

At the entrance of Swami Sannadhi Tower, there are two 12 feet high magnificent sculptures of Dwarapalas. These are the largest Dwarapalas of the entire temple. They are known as Aatkondar and Uyyakkondar.

The sculptures of Vallabha Ganapati, Sadashiva, five-headed Gayatri and Murugan are also found on either side of this entrance.

Immediately after entering to the mandapa from the Gopuranayaka Gopura, we find four gigantic sculptures. Each one of them is around 8 feet high. They are Urdhava, Kali, Aghora Veerabhadra and Agni Veerabhadra.

Urdhava - This sculpture represents the dancing form of Shiva. Shiva has ten arms. His right leg is raised towards the sky. His right arms hold drum, axe, arrow, dagger and trishula. His left arms hold fire, deer, arrow, shield and bell. Apasmara or Muyalaka is lying down the left foot of the dancing Lord. Near his feet, Hanuman with four arms in Anjali Mudra is found. Karaikkal Ammaiyar is depicted with her bony body near Hanuman. Both these figures are small and are found near the feet of Urdhava.

Kali - Kali is found in the dancing posture. She has a flaming jata. She has eight arms and holds bow, arrow, trishul and other weapons. Her left leg rests on a Gana.


Kali (Photo courtesy - Mr. Rajendran Ganesan)


Aghora Veerabhadra - Aghora Veerabhadra has jata makuta with a Linga in the center. Flames arise from his head. He is ten-armed and wears few garments. He holds sword, arrow, axe, Shula and drum in his right arms. His left arms hold Shield with the carved figure of Kali, bow, deer and thunder bolt. The ferocious-looking figure has a mustache. An Asura is found under his feet.

Agni Veerabhadra - Agni Veerabhadra has eight arms. He has flaming jata and flying mustaches.He holds a long trident and piercing the body of an Asura who is lying down under his feet. He wears many garlands and necklaces. He also holds other weapons such as sword, shield and bell. 



Aghora and Agni Veerabhadra (Photo courtesy - Mr. Rajendran Ganesan)


Navagrahas (nine planets) are situated in the mandapa. There are few east-facing sub-shrines located. Some of them appear to be of the 12th/13th century CE. The deities that are enshrined in these sub-shrines are listed down:

  • Lingodbhava
  • Bhakta Linga with Uma
  • Bhakta Linga with Uma (another one)
  • Vilangudi Meenakshi and Sundaresa Linga
  • Anugnai Vinayaka in the standing posture
  • Dandayudhapani
  • Kazhugumalai Murugan
  • Bala Murugan
  • Shiv Linga with Uma (totally three separate sub-shrines)

In one of the pillars in this mandapa, a unique sculpture of Vinayaki (Ganesha in the female form) is seen.

The mandapa joins with the Hundred pillars mandapa in the north and with the Gnana Sambandha sub-shrine in the south. In the east, it leads us outside through the Gopuranayaka Gopura. 

Mandapa Nayaka Mandapa


The Kambattadi Mandapa joins with the Mandapa Nayaka Mandapa in the north side. Hence, it is located to the northeastern side of Sundaresa's shrine. It is also called as Dyana Mandapa or Hundred Pillars Mandapa. It was built by Chinnappan in 1526 CE.

It is a seven aisled mandapa that leads us to the shrine of Sabhapati, known as Deva Sabha. The large stone idol of Nataraja along with Sivakami is found in the shrine. Small images of Patanjali and Vyagrapada are also found. In front, a small four-pillared mandapa made of black polished stones is found. The base of this mandapa is supported by eight elephants (Ashta Gajas). 

Gnana Sambandha Sub-shrine


The Gnana Sambandha sub-shrine was built in 1572 CE by Krishna Veerappa Nayaka. Two statues that are found at the entrance of the shrine are believed to be of his and his son's. Two five feet elephants flank the short flight of steps to the shrine. However, the shrine is blocked for the visitors nowadays. The statues of Appar, Sundara, Manickavasaga, Sambandha, Nedumaran, Mangayarkkarasi, Kulachchiraiyar and Murti Nayanar are found here.

Vigneshwara Mandapa


The south side of the outer corridor has a small mandapa called Vigneshwara Mandapa, where the image of Vigneshwara (Ganesha) is placed. Near that, there is a sub-shrine for Vishwanatha Linga.

Mukkuruni Vinayaka


Mukkuruni Vinayaka is one of the highlights of the temple. This Ganesha idol is located in the southern outer corridor. The entrance in front of this shrine connects Sundaresa Shrine with Meenakshi Shrine. There is a tower here, known as Nadukkattu Gopura.

The eight feet tall Mukkuruni Vinayaka was done by Kandappa Chetti. However, as per the information available in the temple, Tirumalai Nayaka discovered this while digging Vandiyur Theppakulam (a famous tank in the city).

As stated already, Moorti Nayanar, one of 63 Nayanmars, was born in Madurai. A big sandal stone, which is believed to be connected to his legend, is situated near this shrine. It is known as "Moorti Nayanar Chandanakkal" in Tamil.

Mukkuruni Vinayaka (Photo courtesy - Mr. Rajendran Ganesan)


Kalyana Sundaresa


Kalyana Sundaresa shrine is located in the second prakara. The divine wedding of Meenakshi and Sundaresa is depicted as big sculptures in the sanctum. Vishnu is found doing kanya daan. It has a front side mandapa with a lot of newly built statues.

The Divine Wedding


Isvarams


The west side of the outer (second) corridor around Swami Shrine has a tower named Paalaka Gopura, which leads us to West Aadi Street. There are 14 sub-shrines, one facing the south direction and the remaining facing the east direction. All of them have sanctum as well as ardha mandapa. Few of them have small vimanas. All these sub-shrines together are called as Isvarams. Currently, Shiv Lingas are not found in all sub-shrines. They are all built in the second half of the 16th century CE. 


Kariamanicka Perumal Temple


The 80-feet length mandapa is named as Kariamanicka Perumal Shrine. It is not known where the original idols are. Near this mandapa, the sculptures of 49 Sangam period poets are found and it is called as Sangathar Shrine. This is one of the oldest existing structures of the temple. These shrines are located on the northern side of the outer corridor. There is a tower named Chinna Mottai Gopuram which leads us to North Aadi Street.

Other Parts

The temple is such a huge one. Besides the towers and the shrines of Meenakshi and Sundareswara, there are many other mandapas, sculptures and structures. This sub-section would focus on all those remaining parts of this magnificent temple.

Pudhu Mandapa


Pudhu Mandapa (which literally means "the New Hall" is one of the most popular mandaps of Madurai. It was built by Tirumalai Nayaka between 1626 CE and 1633 CE. It is axially in front of the East Outer Tower. It is a large hall measuring 330 feet by 105 feet.

There is a platform found in this mandapa, known as Vasanta Mandapa. On certain festival occasions, the processional idols are brought here.

Pudhu Mandapa


There are a total of 124 pillars in this mandapa. They include different kinds of pillars such as ornamental pillars, pillars with portrait statues, pillars with sculptures carved and pillars with the statues of mythological animals.

Pudhu Mandapa


Some of the outstanding sculptures in this mandapa:
  • Shiva holding a bow and arrow; Ganesha is seen below
  • Meenakshi holding bow and arrow in the opposite panel of Shiva's sculpture 
  • Ravana lifting Kailash - Shiva and Uma seated - called as Ravana Anugraha Murti
  • Ekapada Murti with Brahma and Vishnu emerging from both the sides
  • Ardhanari
  • Harihara
  • Eight-armed Gajasamhara Murti
  • Ten-armed Urdhava - Shiva in the dancing form
  • Ten-armed fierce-looking Kali
  • A rare sculpture of Shiva in the form of a pig holding six piglets (It depicts Tiruvilaiyadal Purana story of Shiva nourishing the motherless piglets)
Also, ten life-sized statues of Nayaka Kings such as Tirumalai Nayak and Vishwanatha Nayak are found on the pillars. There are many Yazhi pillars and the front side pillars have the statues depicting the soldiers riding the horses.

Pudhu Mandapa - Entrance

Pudhu Mandapa - Ravana lifting Kailasha

Pudhu Mandapa - Gaja Samhara Murti

Add caption - Shiva nourishing piglets

Pudhu Mandapa - Soldier riding horse

Pudhu Mandapa - Kali

Pudhu Mandapa - Urdhava

Pudhu Mandapa - Shiva holding bow and arrow

Pudhu Mandapa



Nagara Mandapa


Nagara Mandapa is located in East Chitrai Veedi facing the Ashta Shakti Mandapa. Ashta Shakti Mandapa is the main entrance to Meenakshi's Shrine.

As it was constructed by Kamattam Achayarayan, the minister of Rani Mangammal, it is also called as Achaya Mandapa. It must have been constructed towards the end of the 17th century CE.

The statues of Rani Mangammal and her grandson are found in a pillar of this mandapa.

Nagara Mandapa


Annakkuli Mandapa


Annakkuli Mandapa is a lesser-known mandapa which is located to the west of the West Outer Tower. It is actually a cluster of four small mandapas. The four big statues of stone elephants and Yali pillars are found in these mandapas. In the last mandapa, there are few beautiful carvings on the pillars. This mandapa was built by Tirumalai Manickam in 1563 CE.

Ashta Shakti Mandapa


The East Tower entrance is for Sundaresa Shrine. For Meenakshi Shrine, there is an entrance that is axially in line with it. It does not have a tower. It is called as Ashta Shakti Mandapa due to the eight sculptures of Shakti located here. This was constructed by Rudrambal and Doniyammai, wives of Tirumalai Nayaka in 1623 CE.

Ashta Shakti Mandapa


Eight Shaktis are found with four sculptures on each side.

1) Yagnarupini 
2) Shyamala 
3) Mahesvari 
4) Manonmani 
5) Kaumari 
6) Raudri 
7) Vaishnavi 
8) Mahalakshimi 

The first four sculptures in the list above are on the northern side and the rest four are on the southern side. Each sculpture is above five feet high. All of them are in Sambhanga posture and all of them have four arms.

Ashta Shakti Mandapa (Photo courtesy - Mr. Veludharan)


Besides them, there are four statues of Nayaka Kings. The western end of the mandapa has two good stone images of ten-armed Maha Ganapati and Shanmukha.

Miniature images depicting the story of Meenakshi and few paintings of Devi and other deities are found in the top portion of the interior walls of the mandapa.

The entire mandapa is rented out for various shops and is not maintained properly.

Ashta Shakti Mandapa


Meenakshi Nayaka Mandapa


Meenakshi Nayaka Mandapa is located between Ashta Shakti Mandapa and Chitra Gopura. It was built by a minister of Tirumalai Nayaka. There are 110 22-feet high pillars found in six rows in this mandapa. Each pillar bears the sculpture of Yazhi, the mythological animal. Hence, this hall is also known as Yazhi Mandapa.

In between Meenakshi Nayaka Mandapa and Ashta Lakshmi Mandapa, there is an eight feet high magnificent idol of Goddess. She is found with a five hooded serpent above her head. She is called as Vettuvachchi Amman. The eight feet high sculptures of Vedan and Vedachi (meaning hunter and his wife) are also found in this mandapa. It is believed that they represent Shiva and Meenakshi.

Mudali Pillai Mandapa


Past Ashta Shakti Mandapa entrance, there is Meenakshi Nayaka Mandapa. Past that there is Chitra Gopura entrance. In between Chitra Gopura and the Pottramarai Tank, there is a dark passage known as Mudali Pillai Mandapa. It has six sculpted pillars. All the sculptures are related to the legend of Bhikshatana. The sculptures of Bhikshatana, Mohini and Anusya are masterpieces. Tarukavanam Rishis and Rishi Patnis are the other sculptures found here.

Kadantai Mudali built this mandapa in 1613 CE.

In front of Mudaliar Mandapa, there is a 25 feet high Tiruvachi which has 1,008 lamps. It was installed by Marudu Pandiar. The array of lights, when lit, would give a magnificent sight, for sure. (I never got a chance to experience this though.)

Pottramarai 


Pottramarai (the Golden Lotus Tank, if one has to translate it), the historic temple tank, is spread around one acre. It is also known as Siva Ganga Teerth.

The tank does not have fish or any other water creature. As per a legend, a stork requested Lord Shiva to make the tank free of any water creature so that the other storks would not eat them and commit sin in this holy site.

On the adjoining mandapa (known as Chitra Mandapa), the sculptures of 24 Sangam period poets are carved on the pillars. The statue of Kulasekhara Pandya is also found here. The modern mural paintings on the walls of the mandapa depict 64 leelas of Shiva.

Pottramarai (Photo courtesy - Mr. Veludharan)


Vibhuti Pillaiyar, a Ganesha idol smeared completely with the holy ash, is located on the banks of the tank. It is very popular.

The steps for this gigantic tank were constructed by four different people in the second half of the 1500s. This is the best place to get a glimpse of both the gold plated vimanas, 4 towers in the east and 3 towers in the north. This is the only site in the temple, from where we can see most of the towers together.

Oonjal Mandapa 


On the western side of the tank, there is an Oonjal (swing) Mandapa, which has colorful paintings done during the period of Rani Mangammal. The portrait of Rani, her minister Ramian and her grandson Vijaya Ranga Chokkanathan are found there. The statue of Ramian is too found in this mandapa. The mandapa was constructed in 1563 CE by Chittiappa Nayakkar.

Kilikkoondu Mandapa


Kilikkoondu mandapa runs north-south and is located between the Pottramarai tank and Meenakshi Shrine. This ornamental mandapa was constructed by Tiruvambala Chetti in 1564 CE. He was the son of Siramalai Chevvandi Moorti Chetti. This mandapa has various other names such as Moorti Mandapa, Sangili Mandapa and Pancha Pandava Mandapa. There are a total of 28 richly carved pillars.

The life-sized sculptures of Shiva as a hunter, Yudhistira, Bhima, Arjuna, Nakula, Sahadeva, Draupadi, Purushamriga, Vaali, Sugreeva and few Yazhis (the mythological animals) are sculpted on these pillars.

Few people believe that Abhisheka Pandya removed the pillars from Kariyamanicka Perumal Shrine and installed them in this mandapa. (If you wonder who Abhisheka Pandya was, it was a post created by Nayaka Kings. There were many Abhisheka Pandyas).

The paintings on the ceiling are a major attraction. Shiva, Ganesha, Subramanya, Ekadasa Rudras, Durga, Kali and Surya are all depicted in all their possible iconographies. It is impossible to find all such different forms together. Also, the different forms of Surya are interesting, which cannot be seen anywhere else. Tiruvilaiyadal Purana stories are depicted. The divine wedding of Meenakshi and Sundaresa are depicted in a very big painting.

The mandapa on the west leads us to the Shrine of Meenakshi through Amman Sannadhi Tower. At the entrance of the tower, two big Dwarapalas are found. Siddhi Vinayakar sub-shrine is also located here. The northern end of the mandapa joins with Mukkuruni Vinayaka shrine. There, Nadukkattu tower is situated.

At the southern end of the mandapa, the sub-shrines of Vishwanatha Linga and Vishalakshi are situated. Vishwanatha shrine is big and has garbha griha, ardha mandapa and maha mandapa. The entrance has two life-sized sculptures of beautiful girls. In Maha mandapa, the pillars sculpted with lions are found. The idols of Ganesha, Kartikeya and Bhairava are found at the entrance.

At the northern end, just before the Nadukkattu tower, the sub-shrines of Muthu Linga and Chenneeswara are located.

Kalyana Mandapa


On the outer side of the eastern wall of the second prakara of Sundaresa shrine, to the south of Gopuranayaka Gopura, Kalyana Mandapa is located. The annual festival of Meenakshi and Sundareswara is celebrated in this hall and hence it is called Kalyana Mandapam, meaning the Marriage Hall.

The hall has decorated arches. Two huge paintings depicting the Hindu cosmology are found on the walls. A platform in the middle of the mandapa has pillars and a canopy with wooden carvings.

The stone platform where the ceremony is celebrated was built by Vijayaranga Chokkanatha Nayaka. His figure is carved in a pillar.

A stone image of Gundodara is located in the hall, which is believed to have been brought from somewhere else.

The hall was built by Vynagaram Veenkatachalam Chettiar and Nagappa Chettiar. Their paintings are found at the top portion.

Old miniature paintings depicting the legends of Tiruvilaiyadal that are found on the ceiling look attractive.

Kalyana Mandapa (Photo courtesy - Mr. Rajendran Ganesan)


Thousand Pillared Mandapa


Thousand Pillared Mandapa, called Aayiram Kaal Mandapam in Tamil, is located in the north-east corner of Adi Street, within the temple complex. It occupies an area of 240 feet by 250 feet. The south-facing hall has a total of 985 pillars.

At the center of the hall, a very large and outstanding image of Nataraja is enshrined. As usual, his consort Sivakmai is found nearby. They are flanked by six big Yazhi sculptures on both sides in rows. Two small elephant stone idols are found as the guardians. This shrine is also called as Chitra Sabha.

There is a small shrine which enshrines a Shiv Linga and Devi (Vishwanatha and Vishalakshi). The

The pillars and sculptures are known for their artistic beauty. They can be considered as the best group of sculptures in the entire temple complex. Besides the large and attractive sculptures, there are small reliefs on the facts of the pillars too.

Also, this hall is used as a museum nowadays and many stone sculptures and metal icons are on display. Most of them belong to the later period (15th century or later). Many of them are the icons of Vishnu with his consorts. Subramanya with his consorts, Nataraja-Sivakami, Paavai Vilakku, Ayyanar and Chandrashekhar are few other notable icons.

Manmata and Rati - the Lord of Love and his consort - they are indeed the Love Lords - such a masterpiece. Similarly, Bhikshatana and Mohini are outstanding works. The sculpture of a eunuch representing Arjuna is also noteworthy. Bheema and his enemy Purusha mriga face each other are worth watching. Similarly, Karna and Arjuna are found facing each other.

Kuravan and Kurati with a child in her arms - the gypsy couple, Kankala Murti, Kannappa, Harischandira and his wife Chandramati, Ganesha, Tripurari, Subramanya seated on a peacock, Veerabhadra, Matangi (always mistaken as Saraswati) - all these sculptures are incomparably beautiful.

The man kidnapping a girl, Nritya Ganapati, Pandya King, Vishnu, Draupadi, Yudhistra, the personification of Kali Yuga and two Dwarapalas are few other sculptures. Besides, there are so many pillars with Yazhis. All the pillars have squatting lions in the top portion. Similar to North Tower, here too, the musical pillars are found.

This mandapa was built by Ariyanatha Mudali, the general of Nayaka Kings, in 1572 CE. A statue of a man with a beard riding a horse is said to be his statue, but it is a mistaken identity. That statue actually depicts Shiva who changed the foxes into horses to help his devotee Manickavasagar, as per a popular legend.

Few Smaller Mandapas


Between the East Tower and Ashta Shakti entrances, there are few small mandapas such as Servaikar Mandapa, Muthurama Aiyar Mandapa, Kalyanasundara Mudaliar Mandapa and Subbarayar Manakappa Mandapa.

In Muthurrama Aiyar Mandapa, there is a big sculpture of Sharbeswara, which remains a lesser-known work. There is a small sub-shrine for Kasi Vishwanatha Linga and Visalakshi along with a prakara around and the sculptures of Ganesha and Kartikeya at the entrance are located near this statue.

Arumutha Mudali Mandapa, located in the south-east corner of Adi Street was built in 1760 CE. In the southwest corner of Adi Street, there is Tummachi Nayaka Mandapa and in the northeast corner, there is Tattu Surru Mandapa. In 1658 CE, Pechiyakka, a woman who supplied dairy products, built Pechakkal Mandapa in front of Gopuranayaka Gopura.

Veera Vasantaraya Mandapa


Immediately to the west of the East Tower, a long mandapa with a high raised ceiling is found. It is named as Veera Vasantaraya Mandapa. It was built by Muthu Veerappa, brother of Tirumalai Nayaka, in 1611 CE.  The sculptures of Rudra, Rudra Kali, the personification of Kali Yuga and Kalahara Murti are worth noticing.

West Aadi Street 


In West Aadi Street, opposite to Paalaka Gopura, the Goshala (the shelter for cows) and a holy tree are situated. Under the holy tree, an idol of Ganesha and few stone images of Nagas (serpents) are found.

North Aadi Street 


In North Aadi Street, Nardana Vinayaka sub-shrine is found under a holy tree. It is known as Vadakkadi Veedi Vinayaka.

Nagara Mandapa

List of structures and their ages


  1. East Tower - 13th century CE (Jatavarma Kulasekhara Pandya I and Marvarman Sundara Pandya)
  2. Swami Sannadhi Tower - 13th century CE (Pandyas)
  3. Base of Sundaresa Sanctum - 13th century CE (Pandyas)
  4. East facing sub-shrines in the second prakara of Sundaresa  - 13th century CE (Pandyas)
  5. Amman Sannadhi Tower - 1228 CE (Anandatandava Nambi)
  6. Kadaka Gopura base - 14th century CE (Pandyas)
  7. West Tower - 1323 CE (Parakrama Pandya)
  8. Paalaka Gopura - 1374 CE  (Mallappan )
  9. Aarukaal Mandapam of Meenakshi - 1452 CE (Maavali)
  10. Palliyarai of Meenakshi - 1452 CE (Maavali)
  11. South Tower - 1478 CE (Siramalai Chevvandi Chettiar)
  12. Steps of Pottramarai - 1500s CE
  13. Hundred Pillars Mandapa - 1526 CE (Chinnappan)
  14. Gopuranayaka gopura - First half of the 16th century CE (Visvappa)
  15. Nadukkattu gopuram - 1559 CE  (Siramalai Chevvandi Murti)
  16. Chinna Mottai Tower - 1560 CE (Sevvandi Vela)
  17. Annakkuli mandapa - 1563 CE (Tirumalai Manickam)
  18. Oonjal  Mandapa - 1563 CE (Chittiappa Nayakkar)
  19. Chevvandeeswarar shrine - 1564 CE (Chevvandi Moorti Chetti)
  20. Kilikkoondu Mandapa - 1564 CE (Tiruvambala Chetti)
  21. Chitra Gopura base - 1570 CE (Kalathi Mudali)
  22. Kadaka Gopura superstructure - 1570 CE (Veera Tummaci)
  23. Gnana Sambandha sub-shrine - 1572 CE (Krishna Veerappa Nayaka)
  24. North Tower - 1572 CE (Krishna Veerappa Nayaka)
  25. Thousand pillared Mandapa - 1572 CE (Ariyanatha Mudali)
  26. Kambattadi Mandpa - 1584 CE (Krishna Veerappa Nayaka)
  27. Meenakshi's sanctum - 15th century CE (Vijayanagaras)
  28. Chitra Gopura superstructure - 16th century CE end (Krishna Veerappa Nayaka)
  29. Isvarams Shrines - Second half of the 16th century CE
  30. Mudali Pillai mandapa - 1613 CE (Kadantai Mudali)
  31. Mukkuruni Vinayaka - 17th century CE (Kandappa Chetti)
  32. Raya Gopura - 17th century CE (Tirumalai Nayaka)
  33. Gold flagstaff of Meenakshi - 17th century CE (Tirumalai Nayaka)
  34. Copper sculptures of Dwarapalas in Aarukkaal Mandapa of Meenakshi - 17th century CE (Tirumalai Nayaka)
  35. Meenakshi Nayaka Mandapa- 17th century CE (Meenakshi Nayaka)
  36. Ashta Shakti Mandapa - 1623 CE (Rudrambal and Doniyammai)
  37. Pudhu Mandapa - 1633 CE (Tirumalai Nayaka)
  38. Veera Vasantha Raya Mandapa - 1611 CE (Muthu Veerappa)
  39. Arumutha Mudali Mandapa - 1760 CE (Arumutha Mudali)
  40. Nagara Mandapa - End of the 17th century CE (Acharayan)
  41. Tiruvachi - End of the 18th century CE (Marudu Pandya)
  42. Nandi Mandapa - 1870s CE (Nattukkottai Chettis)

About photographs


Ideally, this article should have more number of photographs of beautiful sculptures. But, unfortunately, photography is not allowed. Hence, photographs of outer structures are mostly provided here. Few photographs of interior structures are from Mr. Veludharan and Mr. Rajendran Ganesan, who were allowed to click photographs few years ago. Thanks to them for helping me with their pictures.

References


1) Aalavai (Tamil) - Narasiah
2) Tiruvilaiyadal Puranam (Tamil) - Parajothi Munivar
3) Madurai through the ages - Dr. D. Devakunjari
4) Shri Meenakshi Sundareswarar Kovil Varalaru (Tamil) - R. Panchanatham Pillai


Happy travelling.



Comments

  1. ஐயா, தங்கள் பாதம் பணிகிறேன். நீங்கள் செய்திருப்பது அரிதினும் அரிதான பணி. நீடூழி வாழ்க.🙏🙏🙏

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  2. இறைவனின் கட்டளை. அடியேனின் கடமை. தங்களுக்கு என்னுடைய பணிவான நன்றியும் வணக்கமும்.

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