Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves

Bhubaneswar is the capital city of Odisha (called Orissa earlier) state of India. It has numerous architecturally beautiful temples and is called the 'City of Temples. Along with Puri and Konark, this city is called 'Swarna Tribuja' (Golden Triangle). 

Around 7 km from the historic city of Bhubaneswar, there are two historically significant sites called Udayagiri and Khandagiri. Let us explore these sites in detail through this article.

Introduction:

On either side of National Highway No. 5 on the outskirts of Bhubaneswar, the twin hills of Udayagiri and Khandagiri are located. These two hills represent one of the earliest Jain rock-cut architectural styles in Eastern India. In ancient times, Udayagiri was called Kumari, and Khandagiri was called Kumara Parvata. These hills were discovered in 1825 CE by A. Stirling. 

There are 18 caves on Udayagiri hill and 15 caves on Khandagiri hill. The caves are meant for the residence of Jain ascetics, and hence they provide hardly any amenities. Most caves consist of a row of cells open either to the verandah or the open space. Some of the caves are double-storeyed. Although all the caves were meant to be shelters for the Jain monks, some were converted into shrines, and a few relief and bas-relief images were added later. The caves in Udayagiri are in much better shape than that of Khandagiri hill. 

History:

The Udayagiri and Khandagiri cave shrines were started by the great Kalinga Emperor Kharavela in the 1st century BCE. It appears that his successors also built some of the shrines later here. The activities continued till the period of Somavanshis in the 10th century CE. 

After losing the glory of Kalinga due to the devastating defeat by Ashoka, the Mahameghavahana (Chedi) dynasty of Kalinga (present-day Odisha state) became very popular and influential during the reign of Kharavela. The primary source of information about this King is taken from the Hatigumpha inscription found in Udayagiri caves. This region was a powerful Jain center in those days. The caves in both hills were built as shelters for the Jain monks by this Jain Emperor.

Udayagiri:

The Udayagiri hills fall on your right side when you enter this area from Bhubaneswar. Compared to Khandagiri, Udayagiri offers more beautiful and better-maintained cave shrines. 

1. Rani Gumpha

Rani Gumpha is the largest and most famous cave of Udayagiri and Khandagiri. The word 'Rani' means Queen. Although it is not an architectural marvel, it has some beautiful ancient sculptures. 

This cave is double-storeyed. Each level has three wings, and the central wing is more prominent among them. The lower floor has seven entrances in the middle wing, whereas the upper floor has nine columns. The upper portion of the central wing has relief images depicting the victory march of a king. Many of the cells have carved dwara pala images; some of them are disfigured. The area that connects the central wing with the right and left wings has some panels where sculptures of wild animals, fruit-laden trees, human figures, women playing musical instruments, monkeys, and playful elephants are found. The pilasters contain toranas (arches) decorated with sculptures of Jain religious importance and royal scenes. 

2. Bajaghara Gumpha

Bajaghara Gumpha is very simple and small. It has a stone bed and pillow and was obviously used as the Jain monks' shelter in ancient times. Apart from the plain rectangular-shaped pillars, this cave has no other sculpture.

3. Chota Hathi Gumpha

The small cave has six small elephant figures on the facade. The word 'chota hathi' means 'small elephant'.

4. Alkapuri Gumpha

Alkapuri Gumpha has a relief sculpture of a lion holding its prey in its mouth. It is double-storeyed. The pillars with human figures (divine beings) with wings are found in this cave. 

5. Jaya Vijaya Gumpha

Jaya Vijaya Gumpha is double-storeyed. It has a relief image of a Bodhi tree with an umbrella on its top, flanked by people worshipping it.

6. Panasa Gumpha

Panasa Gumpha is a tiny and simple cave without any significant features.

7. Thakurani Gumpha

Thakurani Gumpha is double-storeyed but very simple in style. It has a few tiny relief sculptures.

8. Patalapuri Gumpha

Patalapuri Gumpha is slightly bigger with a pillared verandah. However, there is no notable feature in this cave.

9. Mancapuri and Swargapuri Gumpha

Mancapuri and Swargapuri Gumpha is double storeyed. It has a damaged Jain religious symbol which was probably used for worship.

There are three inscriptions found in this cave. One inscription talks about the chief queen of Kharavela. The other two inscriptions talk about Kudepasiri, the successor of Kharavela and Badukha, the son or brother of Kudepasiri.

10. Ganesha Gumpha

Ganesha Gumpha is one of the most important caves in Udayagiri. The cave got this name due to the carved figure of Ganesha on the back of its right cell. Of course, it would have been carved later and cannot be the original work. The cave has two big statues of elephants carrying garlands at the entrance. Also, the carved figures of dwara palas are found at the entrances. The carvings in this cave narrate the story of the elopement of Bassavadatta, Princess of Ujjayini, with King Udayan of Kausambi in the company of Vasantaka. 

Above this cave, the ruins of an apsidal structure are found. It is believed that the legendary Kalinga Jina was placed here once. Kalinga Jina was the idol of Rishabhanatha, which had been taken away from Kalinga by Mahapadma Nanda. After 300 years, Kharavela won the Sunga King Bahasatimita and brought it back.

11. Jambesvara Gumpha

Jambesvara Gumpha is a very simple and small cave with one column and two pilasters. The inscription tells that it is the cave of Nayaki, the wife of Mahamade.

12. Vyaghra Gumpha

Vyaghra Gumpha is one of the famous caves in Udayagiri. The cave, which is in ruins, has an entrance carved like a giant mouth of a tiger. It is one of the most photographed sites in Udayagiri. The word 'vyaghra' means tiger. The inscription here tells that this cave belongs to the city judge Sabhuti.

13. Sarpa Gumpha

Sarpa Gumpha is an unusually very small cave. There are two inscriptions found in this cave. The word 'sarpa' means snake.

14. Hathi Gumpha

Hathi Gumpha is a natural cavern. On the wall, the inscription erected by Kharavela is found. It is the main source of the history of Kharavela.

The word 'hathi' means elephant.

15. Dhanaghara Gumpha

Dhanaghara Gumpha is a small cave with two wide pillars and dwara pala sculptures carved at the entrance.

16. Haridasa Gumpha

Haridasa Gumpha is a small cave with three entrances and a verandah on the front side. There is an inscription found here.

17. Jagannatha Gumpha

Jagannatha Gumpha is a roughly cut cave with three entrances.

18. Rasui Gumpha

Rasui Gumpha is an unusually very small cave.

Khandagiri:

The Khandagiri hills fall on your left side when you enter this area from Bhubaneswar. There are 15 caves in Khandagiri. 

1. Tatowa Gumpha

The parrots are carved above the entrance arch, and hence it is called Tatowa Gumpha. It has two dwarapala figures too.

2. Tatowa Gumpha

The cave sharing the same name as the first cave has a veranda with pilasters containing exquisite carvings.

3. Ananta Gumpha

The cave has sculptures of women, elephants, geese, etc.

4. Tentuli Gumpha


It is a small rock-cut chamber with just one column. 

5. Khandagiri Gumpha

It is a roughly cut cell and has two levels.

6. Dhyana Gumpha

It is a roughly cut cell.

7. Navamuni Gumpha

Navamuni Gumpha is a roughly cut cell with nine Jain Tirthankaras and Sasana Devis sculptures.

8. Barabhuji Gumpha

Barabhuji Gumpha has two relief images of twelve armed Sasana Devis; hence it is called Barabhuji (meaning twelve-armed) Gumpha. There are a few Tirthankara sculptures also found in this cave. The Sasana Devis are worshiped as the Hindu deity Durga nowadays. Funnily, the priests in this shrine claim some Jain Tirthankara sculptures as Surya.

9. Trusula Gumpha

Trusula Gumpha appears to be reconverted in medieval times. There are three sculptures of Rishabha Deva, which look beautiful in the standing posture. Apart from these sculptures, there are sculptures of 24 Jain Tirthankaras, which look rough. 

10. Ambika Gumpha

A few relief images of Sasana Devis are found here.

11. Lalatendu Keshari Gumpha

The relief images of Mahavira, Parshvanath, and a few Jain Tirthankaras are found here.

Caves 12, 13 and 15 are unnamed. Cave 14 is very simple and called Ekadasi Gumpha. 

When you go to Puri or Bhubaneshwar, ensure that you travel to this 2000 years old heritage and historical site too.

Happy travelling.

Visit my site, krishnakumartk.com, to know more about the travel guides and other books that I have written.