Indian Columbus

Little away, to the west of Trimurti Caves in Mamallapuram, a west-facing cave temple is found. Its architecture is basic and simple similar to the early cave temples of Mahendra Varma Pallava. This simple shrine has a complicated name, perhaps. Each person calls the shrine in their own style as "Kodikal Mandapam", "Kodik kaal mandapam" and so on. What was its original name, and what does the word "Kodikal" mean? We cannot find a genuine answer. The temple has a sanctum and a mukha mandapa.  The sanctum is empty now. Two kudu arches are found on the beam. As it is guarded by two female guardians (Dwarapalikas), it is presumed to be a Durga temple. One of them holds a sword and shield, whereas the other person holds a long bow and rests her left arm on her thigh. Both the graceful ladies are standing in an elegant posture. They have jata makuta (matted hair) laced with ornaments on their top. Breast-bands and waist-bands are there. Besides, there are no sig...

Not all the sculptures in the great town called Mamallapuram are religious. Though not all the experts are convinced to classify certain sculptures as non-religious, the minor elephant panel is undoubtedly a secular sculptural panel. Located near the Trimurti Cave Temple, the panel has a majestically standing bull elephant overlooking a cow elephant on top, two beautiful calves, a peacock, and a monkey.  The Pallava sculptors were equally obsessed with Durga and elephants. In most of the monuments in the town, we could find either of them. In this panel, the elephant family is realistically carved. Look at the playful elephant calf. Unfortunately, the sculpture of another calf is damaged. The female monkey is seated in a stylish posture and watching the elephants furtively. Though it is a small panel and not very popular, it is one of the best creations of Pallavas. Unless the sculptors had enjoyed their work intensely, they could not have created this masterpiece. There seems to b...

 It is perhaps the oldest monument of Mamallapuram. Unlike the other monuments of the town, which are the creations of the Pallavas or the Vijayanagaras, it is a natural monument. It is 250 tons weighing gigantic granite boulder delicately balanced on the slope of the hillock. The 6-meter high and 5-meter wide giant-sized rock is a regular crowd puller.  Like many other attractions of the town, although there is no connection with Mahabharata, it is named after Krishna. The locals call it Krishna's Butter Ball. There was an unsuccessful attempt about one hundred years ago to remove the rock to ensure the safety of people. Happy travelling.

The earlier European records of Mamallapuram would give us a sense of how Sthalapuranas "get created". William Chambers, who had documented the town's monuments in the 1700s, heard from the locals that Dharmaraja, the eldest among the Pandava brothers of Mahabharata, used the royal throne in Mamallapuram during his exile in the forest. Hence, they called this monument Dharmaraja's Throne.  Without detailing what the other earliest accounts of Mamallapuram record this place, I thought of sharing a special mention. Kavali Lakshmayya, in his early 1800s manual, has recorded that he saw the remains of a palace near this throne.  Atop the hill between Koneri Lake and Varaha Mandapa, the rock-cut throne is located. It is technically a couch and not a throne. As I had mentioned in an earlier article, there are four rock-cut couches in the town. It is the most attractive and completely carved couch among the four. With ten feet in length and 3.5 feet in width, it can comforta...

Besides the interesting cave shrines and large relief panels, a few lesser-known monuments are also located in Mamallapuram. Draupadi's Bath is one such site. Draupadi's Bath is situated atop the hill between the Descent of Ganga relief panel and Koneri lake. Like many other monuments of the town, the name has no relevance to the Mahabharata.  It is a rock-cut rectangular-shaped cistern excavated for storing water. The idea was probably to use the well-like structure for drinking purposes of the sculptors working on various monuments. Based on what they heard from the locals, William Chambers and Kavali brothers called it Draupadi's Bath.  Today, very few visitors who visit the hill stop at this churn. Hardly they are bothered to know its name or history. Happy travelling.

Mamallapuram is filled with experimental monuments of Pallava-era sculptors. Varaha Mandapa is the most complete and ornamental shrine among various cave temples. Four majestic relief panels adorning its walls are the highlights. People named it after the Varaha panel, one of those four relief panels seen here. Layout The west-facing cave temple has a simple layout with a single sanctum and a front side mandapa.  There are four large relief panels on the mandapa walls, two facing the west, one on the south-facing wall, and the last on the north-facing wall. The mandapa is supported by two pillars and two pilasters. There are two pairs of Dwarapalas. One pair stands at the entrance of the sanctum. The additional Dwarapalas are found on the sanctum's south and north-facing outer sidewalls. Sanctum The west-facing sanctum is chopped out in the rear wall and projects out into the mukha mandapa. It can be reached with two rock-cut steps. It is empty, devoid of any icon or painting. Base...