Wat Arun - The Temple of Dawn - Bangkok

What is the most spectacular temple in Bangkok city in Thailand? It is difficult to answer. The city has innumerable marvels and surprises. Although I would love to write about all those temples, God has only allowed me to visit very few. Let me discuss one such spectacular temple in this article- Wat Arun, commonly known as the Temple of Dawn in English.

Thailand and Bangkok

Thailand, officially called the Kingdom of Thailand, is a small South East Asian country located near Myanmar and Cambodia. It was formerly known as Siam.

Though Thailand is officially a constitutional monarchy, whereby the prime minister is the head of government and a hereditary monarch is the head of state, it is actually under the control of a military junta.

Thailand has been heavily influenced by the culture of India for several centuries. It is evident from the Indianised names of the kingdoms, cities, and even the Kings. Ramayana, the epic from India, is very popular in Thailand.

Bangkok, known as Krung Thep Maha Nakhon in the Thai language, is the most populous capital of Thailand. It is famous for its vibrant street life, ornate temples, massage parlors, and shopping.

The Temple of Dawn

Wat Arun Ratchawararam or Wat Chaeng!

Well, it's challenging to remember or pronounce either of the above names. That's why we call this site the Temple of Dawn in English or simply Wat Arun in Thai. This is one of the most spectacular and famous temples in Bangkok. More than that, the temple is unique in architectural design.

Located on the west banks of the Chao Phrava, this temple is named after Lord Arun. Arun is the charioteer of Lord Surya (the Sun God). He represents dawn. Hence, the site is also called the temple of dawn.

This temple was the Emerald Buddha's home before moving to the Grand Palace.

The temple is open for the entire day from 8:30 am to 5:30 pm. The entry fee for foreigners is 100 baht, which is nominal compared to the price collected for other famous temples in Bangkok. This temple can be reached either by road or by boat from the other side of the river.

History

On this site, there stood an Ayutthaya-period temple named Wat Makok. After the destruction of Ayutthaya, the capital city, by the Burmese in 1767 CE, King Taksin, the only King of the Thonburi dynasty, arrived at this old temple. It is believed that he reached the site when the dawn was just breaking. He formed his new capital Thonburi on the west banks of the river Chao Phraya and also built a new temple named Wat Jaeng on the remains of the old temple. Thus, the temple predates the founding of Bangkok city. (Bangkok was founded only in 1782).

Thonburi had this temple as a royal and private temple and built his palace around it, as the site was the first place to get the morning sunlight. It is said that he expelled the Buddhist monks from the temple.

Takshin was dethroned in a coup and was ultimately killed in 1782. The era of the Rattanokosin kingdom began. They established Bangkok on the other side of the river as the new capital. King Rama I of the Chakri dynasty allowed the monks to reenter the temple. During the period of King Rama II, the temple was renovated and renamed as Wat Arun Rachataram.

King Rama III built the tallest prang in the temple's enclosure and renamed the temple as Wat Arun Ratchawararam.

Tallest Prang

The tallest prang (spire) of Wat Arun temple that dominates the skyline around the river is a spectacular sight. This tallest tower in Thailand remains one of the city's famous landmarks. Wat Arun temple became famous due to this prang. (A prang is architecturally different from a stupa. Few writers use the terms interchangeably, which is not correct).

Prang

The prang is around 66.8 meters high and is decorated with tiny pieces of colored glass and Chinese porcelain. Rama III, who extended the prang, added these decorations in the middle of the 19th century CE. The steps to reach the prang are very steep. Nowadays, visitors are allowed only until the middle level for security reasons.

Yakshas

The tower is built based on Khmer architectural style. The tower is decorated with ceramic tiles and fragments of multicolored porcelain to make it a colorful and stunning monument. (It is said that the Chinese ships dumped a load of excess porcelain into the river of Bangkok in those days, which was recycled and used to decorate the temples.) It is believed that this grand prang represents Mount Meru.

Kinnaras

The entrance is guarded by the statues of two giant Chinese soldiers. The sculptures of Chinese figures and animals are found at the tower's base. The topmost portion of the tower has the King's crown, which was placed by King Rama III. Four images of Indra seated on a three-headed Erawan facing four different directions are found in the middle layer. Of course, we cannot see that. All these layers at various levels are supported by numerous half-human Kinnaras and the frightening Yakshas.

Prang

The grand prang is surrounded by four smaller prangs. Like the figure of Indra in the central tower, each of these smaller towers has four statues of Phra Phai (Vayu or the Wind God) seated on a horse facing four different directions.

Four sub-shrines around the central tower enshrine the images depicting birth, the first sermon in Sarnath, enlightenment, and nirvana.

Indra

Vayu

Ordination Hall

The ordination hall or ubosot (main shrine) enshrines the giant image of Lord Buddha. The golden image is named as Niramitr Buddha or Phra Phutthathammitrararatchalokthatdilok. The vast interior walls are decorated with murals depicting Buddha's tales. These paintings were done during the period of King Rama V.

Ordination Hall

It is believed that King Rama II crafted the face of Buddha's image out of wood and then covered the design in golden leaf. His ash is kept in an urn under the Buddha's image. 

In this shrine, Buddha is found seated atop a high-raised seat. His legs are crossed in a meditation posture. His right arm over the knee is pointing towards the earth. His mudra is called Subduing Mara Mudra.

Niramitr Buddha

In front of him, two of his disciples are found facing him. Two small images of Buddha in a similar posture are also enshrined in this hall.

The hall, with a two-tiered roof and the pillar finials decorated with gold leaves and colored glasses, stands as an outstanding example of the late Ayutthaya style architecture. The walls are decorated with gilt, and the windows and doors glitter attractively. Gold, gold and gold....everywhere!

The icon of Arun is placed in front of the hall at the entrance. This image is also of gold.

Lord Arun

Another Shrine

There is a smaller shrine of Buddha, where his big golden image is found in the subduing Mara Mudra.

Apart from the presiding deity, there are six icons of Buddha with the subduing Mara Mudra in different sizes found in the shrine. Two Buddhas in standing posture and one small replica of the Emerald Buddha are also enshrined.

Buddha with the subduing Mara Mudra

Buddha's Footprint

Buddha's footprint carved in a kind of stone called Kwatong stone is enshrined in a shrine. It is located in an elevated mondopa which can be reached only through a flight of steps. Large bells are found near the shrine. A beautiful garden is situated facing this shrine.

Shrine with Buddha's Footprint

Gardens

The gardens in the complex are well-maintained, and they all look stunning.  

Corridor

The corridor around the ordination hall has a row of identically looking golden images of Buddha. There are a total of 120 icons of Buddha. All of them depict the subduing Mara Mudra. 

The vast open space between the ordination hall and the row of Buddha's icons has statues of Chinese people and animals. They depict different poses; some are men, some are women, some are warriors, some are dancers, and so on. There are mythical animals, dragons, lions, camels, etc. At the corner, a few statues are found within a small sub-shrine kind of structure. Decorative bowls in different designs are found all along the corridor.  

King

The statue of King is placed in a corner. I am not sure who this King is. He might be Takshin. People pay tributes to the King with flowers. 

 

King's Statue

Happy travelling.